Spider S3 Flywheel advice needed

After nearly three years off the road, I have finally got the engine back into my 1989 S3 2000 Spider. I'm just at the stage of putting the radiator etc back into place, but my brother has got me wound up about whether the flywheel has been put back on correctly. I'm at the point where I may as well try it anyway, but the question is this:

Can you tell if the flywheel is correctly positioned when the engine and gearbox are in place? There are no viewing holes to determine the timing position, although I can take out the two sensors to find the sensor target positions if I know where they should be at a particular time in the engine cycle. This car has the Bosch electronic ignition (Jetronic?). The marks are ok at the front end, ie the distributor is right with the 'F' mark on the pulley. I just can't see anything at the back.

I am nearing the point of being able to try it, so answers most welcome.

In case you're wondering why I took the engine out, it was for two reasons:
1) The clutch was slipping due to the gearbox oil seal being shot, so this has all been replaced.
2) One of the exhaust valve seat inserts decided to fall out..... One of the others was a bit loose as well. This was all sorted by an engine specialist who has also replaced the valve guides.

This question may seem a bit daft, but it's been out for nearly two years. I am competent, but just need reassuring.....

There's no way that I know of to check the flywheel timing with the gearbox installed. On the bright side though, if the engine starts and runs, the timing is okay. Please see this tech note on timing the flywheel on Bosch L-Jet Spiders.

Potential problem avoided - I successfully started the car tonight, 3rd September. The flywheel is fine. My brother owes me a big drink for worrying me........... Thanks to Dad for having confidence in what I had done and not questioning it!

Good news, is it running well?

Originally Posted by Pud237

Good news, is it running well?

Thanks for asking. I only ran it for about a minute because I hadn't put the water in, but there were four cylinders there, and all contributing. It sounded a bit lumpy, but I can expect that, given that I'd left a fair bit of oil down the bores and that it hasn't run for almost three years.
I tried without success to drain off the old petrol, but when I turned the engine over on the starter (basically to see if I was getting a feed to the fuel pumps), the engine fired up. Big relief!

Not all petrol goes off then, does it? I just wish I could remember the brand....

First question from my wife - "Can you MOT it at the weekend then?"
First comment from my father (over a hands free mobile) - "Sounds a bit rough........"
There is nothing like positive encouragement!

Next jobs - Coolant, bleed brakes (new master cylinder fitted), bleed clutch, check propshaft (probably get it balanced and fit a new bearing first).

Can anyone recommend a good propshaft specialist in the Staffs/West midlands area?

Originally Posted by andyt

Not all petrol goes off then, does it? I just wish I could remember the brand....

When petrol goes bad doesn't loose the capacity to run an engine. What happens is that is starts to form a varnish like coating and has a tendency to gum up the internals of delicate bits and pieces like carburetors and fuel injection systems. I would recommend you get as much out as you can and add a good dose of fuel injection cleaning additive, like Redex, with fresh petrol before you try again. Even better if you can squirt some carb cleaner through the injectors directly.

Good on ya for sticking with it