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24-01-2010
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Door Seal replaced but now doors struggle to close
Well I have just replaced my drivers door seal and as expected my GTV6 door now will not shut properly. I have to really slam it shut! I have no door cards at the moment too, so will be worse when they are in!
The originals are a lot thinner but have a few holes and in one place its completely broken.
So I have 3 options:
1) Leave the new seal on and put up with the shutting problem and hope it gets better.
2) I have heard 'slitting' the rubber helps, but not sure thats wise!
3) Put the original back on
4) Use the original and cut in a new piece where its need
Anyone have any ideas??
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Cheers,
Peter
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25-01-2010
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Adjust the striker plate so that the door isn't pulled so firmly onto the seal? The downside to this is that the rear edge of the door may not sit flush with the body when closed.
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25-01-2010
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Originally Posted by Dave Brand
Adjust the striker plate so that the door isn't pulled so firmly onto the seal? The downside to this is that the rear edge of the door may not sit flush with the body when closed.
I did think of that when I looked at it yesterday but the bottom already juts out abit before hand, now its by alot, so if I adjusted it more it would be rather extreme.
Cheers
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25-01-2010
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 Sorry Peter, no ideas on this one.
Funnily enough, after the big freeze, my drivers door started sticking very badly, so much so that I had to push it open from the inside. A quick squirt of silicon lubricant sorted this out.
Sorry, this doesn't help at all.
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25-01-2010
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Originally Posted by Nige005
 Sorry Peter, no ideas on this one.
Funnily enough, after the big freeze, my drivers door started sticking very badly, so much so that I had to push it open from the inside. A quick squirt of silicon lubricant sorted this out.
Sorry, this doesn't help at all.
No your right Nige... no help at all!!
haha only joking.
To be honest last night I looked again at my old seals. They were ok, apart from one big hole and a few cuts. I have re-glued the cuts but the large hole irrepairable. To be honest I am temped to make a mix of old and new. Have the new seal around the top and down the sides and just replace the 6 inches around the a-pillar base. I mean I'd propably have to have more like a foot of new seal to get it to stay in place but I thnk it would be ok. I could use the original velour covering and glue it to the new seal. There would obviously be a break in the seal but what can I do
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25-01-2010
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Originally Posted by 156 and GTV6
No your right Nige... no help at all!!
haha only joking.
To be honest last night I looked again at my old seals. They were ok, apart from one big hole and a few cuts. I have re-glued the cuts but the large hole irrepairable. To be honest I am temped to make a mix of old and new. Have the new seal around the top and down the sides and just replace the 6 inches around the a-pillar base. I mean I'd propably have to have more like a foot of new seal to get it to stay in place but I thnk it would be ok. I could use the original velour covering and glue it to the new seal. There would obviously be a break in the seal but what can I do 
 Sounds like a reasonable plan to me.
But why are the new seals so different from the old ones ? Would expect the new ones to be a bit bigger/spongier but it sounds like yours are massively bigger.
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25-01-2010
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Well the old ones were rather thin and were about as thick as a push bike tyre. The new seals are 3 times as thick and mad of sponge type rubber. Trust me replacing them isn't really worth it... well not in my mind.
I think I'll end up doing what I said, cutting new bits into the old rubber, i'll have a look later and decide I think.
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25-01-2010
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When I put new door seals on the GTV I had the same problem - the doors needed an unseemly amount of slamming to shut, and although they latched, the doors were no longer flush with the rear quarter panel, particularly at the bottom. Despite the 'why can't anything you do with an older Alfa work properly' thoughts I had at the time, I left the new seals in place, and after about six months or so they had been squeezed more or less into submission by the narrow gap they'd been forced to exist in. Now they're fine, and much better than the decrepit originals.
I think that the available new seals are slightly fatter than the original items were, even when they were new, but not enough to make much difference once they're broken in, as it were. I think the new seals route is probably the best for the door seal's Ronseal task of sealing the door opening: better either than the originals (I imagine yours are in a similar state to mine, for you to consider replacement) or splicing in new bits of seal of a different section to the original.
J.
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25-01-2010
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Originally Posted by 156 and GTV6
Well the old ones were rather thin and were about as thick as a push bike tyre. The new seals are 3 times as thick and mad of sponge type rubber. Trust me replacing them isn't really worth it... well not in my mind.
I think I'll end up doing what I said, cutting new bits into the old rubber, i'll have a look later and decide I think.
Yep, does seem like a case of make do and mend, sometimes the best option perhaps. So far as I can recall mine are in decent nick so don't have the same decision as you - yet !
Now the Sunroof Seal could be another matter..........
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25-01-2010
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Originally Posted by GTV116
When I put new door seals on the GTV I had the same problem - the doors needed an unseemly amount of slamming to shut, and although they latched, the doors were no longer flush with the rear quarter panel, particularly at the bottom. Despite the 'why can't anything you do with an older Alfa work properly' thoughts I had at the time, I left the new seals in place, and after about six months or so they had been squeezed more or less into submission by the narrow gap they'd been forced to exist in. Now they're fine, and much better than the decrepit originals.
I think that the available new seals are slightly fatter than the original items were, even when they were new, but not enough to make much difference once they're broken in, as it were. I think the new seals route is probably the best for the door seal's Ronseal task of sealing the door opening: better either than the originals (I imagine yours are in a similar state to mine, for you to consider replacement) or splicing in new bits of seal of a different section to the original.
J.
 There speaks the voice of experience. nice one J and good morning.
Second thoughts now Peter ?
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25-01-2010
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Try warming the seal with a hair dryer, soak in silicone lube and leave with door shut overnight. It speeds up the "bedding in" process.
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25-01-2010
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Afternoon gents... well funny enough I have just popped to my garage to have a look at the door again...
I think your right J, after a while the new seals will bed in, problem is I have removed the door cards. When I refit them shortly the problem will be much worse! I've just looked at the splicing idea but I think it will look stupid and also it will just leak then anyway, so what was the point of bothering lol! The seals were not completely gone but with the large hole in it at one point I really had to replace.
guiliasuper, I must admit I thought about the hair dryer route and I wondered if there was something I could add to the rubber to soften it... I'll look into that more.
The new seal itself looks good but I have really messed up the mitred corner...I think I'll re-do the corner and just cut the metal 'U' and the seal will just be bend 90 degrees, seems to work better than cutting and glueing.
Thanks all,
Peter
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25-01-2010
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I had new door seals put on my Spider S4 nearly a year ago - no problems shutting the doors etc. but I noticed a small hole is already forming near the top of the driver's door seal at the B post. Rather than replacing the door seal seemingly every 12 months I plan to fill the small hole with black rubber silicone (in a tube from DIY store) then stick a small bit of black duck tape over.
I would think twice about splicing or cutting door seals - aren't they there to stop water getting in??
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25-01-2010
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Originally Posted by Alfisti Chris
I had new door seals put on my Spider S4 nearly a year ago - no problems shutting the doors etc. but I noticed a small hole is already forming near the top of the driver's door seal at the B post. Rather than replacing the door seal seemingly every 12 months I plan to fill the small hole with black rubber silicone (in a tube from DIY store) then stick a small bit of black duck tape over.
I would think twice about splicing or cutting door seals - aren't they there to stop water getting in??
Yeap... your quite right cutting them is stupid... I have seen the light (through a hole in a seal!) The silcone and black tape idea... thats very like me....a man after my own heart!
Right decision made. New seals are to big as and I haven't even refitted the door card yet so then no way will the door close!
So... I have had a word with Vince and he is looking for some old seals for me, so hopefully if he has some and I can mix them with mine to make a good set.
Now I have that off my face, I can fix my door cards!
Oh I did try softening the new seals with Glycerin, it did nothing as did hot water as did silicone spray.
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08-02-2010
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Right bit of an update....
The new seals from Highwood Alfa are useless, way to thick and way to hard. Old seals are not good and I had no response about getting second hand ones from various sources.
I got some new door seals from Classic Car Trim and Vehicle Trim by East Kent Trim Supplies and you need seal '135' for a Ford. Its softer material and not only that they can supply one with corners cut at 90 degrees (unlike Highwood) and they are cheaper!
Saved me from the rain on the way back from Epsom yesterday!
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08-02-2010
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Originally Posted by 156 and GTV6
Right bit of an update....
The new seals from Highwood Alfa are useless, way to thick and way to hard. Old seals are not good and I had no response about getting second hand ones from various sources.
I got some new door seals from Classic Car Trim and Vehicle Trim by East Kent Trim Supplies and you need seal '135' for a Ford. Its softer material and not only that they can supply one with corners cut at 90 degrees (unlike Highwood) and they are cheaper!
Saved me from the rain on the way back from Epsom yesterday!
 Nice one Peter, glad you're sorted out and thanks for the info.
Last edited by Nige005; 08-02-2010 at 13:55.
Reason: Use correct name !
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08-02-2010
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Originally Posted by Nige005
 Nice one Chris, glad you're sorted out and thanks for the info.
Chris!!! My names Peter Nige, mind you wheres my signature gone!
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08-02-2010
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Originally Posted by 156 and GTV6
Chris!!! My names Peter Nige, mind you wheres my signature gone!
 Sorry Peter, I know what your name is, it's me, not with it today, old age you know !  And the cold, and the snow !
The sig only appears about 1 in ten Posts on the same thread, designed that way.
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08-02-2010
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Originally Posted by Nige005
 Sorry Peter, I know what your name is, it's me, not with it today, old age you know !  And the cold, and the snow !
The sig only appears about 1 in ten Posts on the same thread, designed that way.
I never relised that, well you learn something everyday!!
Nige... could you do me a favour? You you have check-straps on your doors to stop them swinging open and over extending? If so you couldn't take a picture of them on the car, I need to make some up as mine are missing.
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08-02-2010
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Originally Posted by 156 and GTV6
I never relised that, well you learn something everyday!!
Nige... could you do me a favour? You you have check-straps on your doors to stop them swinging open and over extending? If so you couldn't take a picture of them on the car, I need to make some up as mine are missing.

I'll have look in a tic, not snowing right now !
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08-02-2010
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Here's the pics, not sure how much help they'll be though.
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08-02-2010
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Originally Posted by Nige005
Here's the pics, not sure how much help they'll be though.
Nige! Thats great thanks for that... I didn't relise they were made of metal at the bottom there! I want to know where my check straps have gone!!!!! Maybe they were removed or fallen through.....I have just refitted all the door cards so I am not taking them off again for a while!! There is a trianglar structure just behind those two bolts at the bottom, maybe the check strap is lying in there... seems logical to me!
Thanks again matey!
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08-02-2010
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Originally Posted by 156 and GTV6
Nige! Thats great thanks for that... I didn't relise they were made of metal at the bottom there! I want to know where my check straps have gone!!!!! Maybe they were removed or fallen through.....I have just refitted all the door cards so I am not taking them off again for a while!! There is a trianglar structure just behind those two bolts at the bottom, maybe the check strap is lying in there... seems logical to me!
Thanks again matey!
Glad they helped.
My Door Cards will have to come off soon. Are they easy to remove ? The ones on the 916 are a pig to replace.
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08-02-2010
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Originally Posted by Nige005
Glad they helped.
My Door Cards will have to come off soon. Are they easy to remove ? The ones on the 916 are a pig to replace.
Yeah they are easy... 3 screws on eitherside, 5 on the bottom I think, unscrew the door pin plastic cover. remove the plastic inserts on the handle, then remove the 3 screws. Thats about it... should just lift away!
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