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Old 13-06-2008   #1 (Post Link)
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1976 Spider

Heat stroke '76 Spider cont'

Just checked output at road operating temp on fuel pump, looks good, filters ok, flow constant, no farts, no bubbles, psi at a couple. Checked cyl compression (subjectively for equality) each cylinder before and after run, found #3 cyl is ****in off a bit at high temp. Burnt a couple of knuckles but answered a question. Apparently have a weak head bolt right side. Makes sense to this newbie, does it to anyone else? Have you seen something like this? I guess instead of ordering a fuel pump this go around, I'll have to get a head gasket and some new studs. I've got the Giulia-Spider shop manual but is there anyone out there that knows the inside tricks and things to beware of that are not mentioned in the book that a newbie should, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks amigos'
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Old 16-06-2008   #2 (Post Link)
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Re: Heat stroke '76 Spider cont'

Originally Posted by drews View Post
...psi at a couple.
Couple? As in two? Not good if that's the case. Spica fuel supply system pressure should be around the low to mid-teens in psi. The Pressure Relief Valve (PRV) bypasses fuel back to the tank at 17-18psi and the low fuel pressure light comes on at about 7psi. Sounds like fuel feed supply problems to me.

However, that pales in comparision to a possible broken head stud. Is it indeed broken?
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Old 17-06-2008   #3 (Post Link)
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Re: Heat stroke '76 Spider cont'

Sorry, should have also mentioned that fuel pressure was a subjective test as well. I have a manometer that I built for an old project a while back. I once had it marked off in bar/ in/ lb but it's been worn. It fit nicely and gave me a relative level before and after. I've used it on english, yank and swede stuff with good results as a differential indicator. Visual of flow looks, feels (finger test)healthy. No low pressure lamp. Best guess, it's ok for now.
Yup, the head stud is broken, have the cap nut here on my desk. It's the stud between 2 & 3 on the right side where the lift loop is attached. The cap nut, with end of stud in it ,turned right off when I checked snuggness in the ccw direction. A post race routine I developed with the bikes. As soon as I figure out how to put a photo up I'll do so. I've tracked down most, I think, parts for the head gasket replacement except the studs. Still would like to hear some unpublished precautions, hints about the job. In retrospect, this whole degredation of performance over time & temp has a lot in common with an old TR250 that I once had a love/hate relationship with, albeit a straight six.
While the head is off, what would you suggest. I'll have flatness checked, check carbon builds, guides and general condition. But, what else do you guys look at?
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