GT 1600 Somking on overun

Hi all

Out driving my Junior today I noticed the odd puff (and one load of smoke) from the exhaust when deaccerating and then booting it. Typically valve guide prob, (I also have a slight misfire at 3500 and 4500 which could be caused by the same, but carbs etc need tuning so that may sort it).

Question is, is this an urgent job? I know worst case scenario is that a valve could overheat and snap off, but just wanted to know whether I can continue to drive it with minimal risk until I get round to doing a shopping list of work in the winter, or whether it needs attention now?

Appreciate your help!

Alfrodo

Hi,My Spider has been doing,what you described,since I bought it 15 years ago.The carbs. do run a bit rich but it has never really bothered me.I do check the oil level often and never had any problems.
Regards
ps.Post some pics of your car

I reckon you're about right with your diagnosis. My GTV does the same. You'll need to clean your plugs a little more frequently but its not an urgent one to fix. You can change them next time the heads off for a head gasket change, which seems to be all too regular for me.

The only 'misfire' I ever got with the original 2 carb engines of the 70s and 80s was at the change over from idle jets to main jets which is much lower than 3500-4500 rpm even on a car with emission control carburetors......
Under what circumstances does the engine misfire......

As for the head gasket going. Hopefully you are 'retentioning' the head on a regular basis......ie every 6 months....Then their is the regular adjustment of the timing chain ......etc etc etc....
The Alfa Romeo Owners Bible by Pat Braden will be a good read.....and maybe his other book ...

NB I had a new 1983 Alfetta GTV 2.0 for 19 years and over 60,000 miles with the engine never opened (from new).....


Amazon.co.uk: Alfa Romeo Owner's Bible 1954 on (Owner's Bibles): Pat Braden: Books


Amazon.co.uk: Alfa Romeo All-Alloy Twin Cam Companion: 1954-1994: Pat Braden: Books

Thanks guys, some reassuring words here. Alfa Bible just ordered from amazon!

The car misfires when crusing at about 4-4500 and at around 2500-3 ish. not badly just a little ber-bum, if you know what I mean.

Picks on their way!

Al

On 'emision' control carburetors, the idle to main transfer point is between 2500 and 3000 rpm and may result in the engine running rough at that point.

I am not sure what you have on the car, but probalby either Dellorto DHLA or Weber but you may be unlucky and have Solex. Is there any designation on the carburetors .example on the top of the Dellortos . near the idle adjustment there will be 40DHLA and maybe a letter stamped into the carburetor such as F. The Webers will have a similar designation ,40DCOE, but usually a number if emission control carbutertos (I think )\Certainly if there is anything other than a 40DHLA on the Dellortos then they will be emission control ones

Thanks Stori,

Working away from home this week, but will have a look the next opportunity I get!

Glad I stumbled across this forum!

Alfrodo

My Series 3 Spider suffered from the smoke problem and it turned out to be valve guides. Scary thing was though, that one of the exhaust seat inserts decided to come loose as well, so maybe don't leave it too long......

I am currently looking at buying a GT1600 1972, around 90k kms, on noting the car departing after a test run, there was a constant haze of blue smoke, this was on a hot day after the car had been driven for 20 plus minutes.

I didn't do the over run/foot to floor test....options...wrong oil, valve stems or badly worn engine?

Your thoughts appreciated.

Originally Posted by Parisien

I am currently looking at buying a GT1600 1972, around 90k kms, on noting the car departing after a test run, there was a constant haze of blue smoke, this was on a hot day after the car had been driven for 20 plus minutes.

I didn't do the over run/foot to floor test....options...wrong oil, valve stems or badly worn engine?

Your thoughts appreciated.

Its burning oil, needs either top end or piston/ring/cylinder work. Not necessarily a reason to walk away, but for sure factor an engine rebuild / top end work into the price. Ask how much oil it uses and you might get an honest answer.

For a classic with only a few thousand miles a year use there may still be a goodly amount of life left in it.

Harryf, cheers for that, apart from usual bits and pieces for a piston/liners/rings replacement and gaskets, anything else, workwise, I should consider factoring in?

Is this an engine out job, number of hours to get work done....any other tips greatfully recieved for me to negotiate on this car!

Originally Posted by harryf

Its burning oil, needs either top end or piston/ring/cylinder work. Not necessarily a reason to walk away, but for sure factor an engine rebuild / top end work into the price. Ask how much oil it uses and you might get an honest answer.

For a classic with only a few thousand miles a year use there may still be a goodly amount of life left in it.

Don't forget though that you may come unstuck with your yearly MOT (if you're in the UK) or equivalent, and the examiner may not allow a pass if there is visible smoke.

If you plan on doing the work yourself, tot up the typical items needed from the Highwood or Classicalfa websites, and double the price, since you're bound to find other things on the way. If you're going to hand it over to a garage, be very careful or your 'investment' may turn on you!