inlet manifold problem

Ive had the inlet manifold replaced by an oldtimer garrage here in Berlin only for the engine to start running eratically again only after 50 miles use... Have traced the fault to the engine side of the new rubber manifold where there is an air leak. (Proved by spraying easy start onto the rubber / head joint and the engine reving). I have a workshop manual but it doesnt cover replacing tightning the manifold. So my question .... How hard is this to do.. to gain access inside the C.head.The bottom of the two bolts/studs is just about accessible but the top one ! How do you gain access to it ? and does anyone have a manual covering this /Step by step guide.I have completly lost faith in the garrage that carried out the work.

Nigel

Hi!
Remove the air cleaner bowl,then you have better access to the nuts.Make sure you disconnect the battery before you start!
Regards

Slightly confused, or maybe your car is very different from my 1750 spider, but I thought that the carbs bolted to the mounts (easy to access), the mounts bolt to the manifold (a real pain, because you take the manifold off to get to them bolts behind the manifold, and then the manifold to the head (not impossible to access, but needs the right extensions joints etc on the socket).

So if the leak is between the mount and the manifold you are going to swear a lot, because you have to take the carbs off, and the manifold, and that means draining the cooling system, then when you bolt it back together rebalancing the carbs........or take it back to the garage and get them to do the job properly.

I did a set of mounts in the middle of winter outside, in the rain etc etc. Took about 3 hours, not difficult, just time consuming. Needed a 1/4 inch socket set with some longish extensions to unbolt the carbs and lots of patience.

You do need a little sealant on the gaskets. I used Hermetite Red.


Again, assuming your car is similar to my 1750.

Good luck....

Jonathan

Jonathan's post explains it well for the 1750. Not a complex job, just annoying. PM me for an exploded view of the inlet manifold etc from the 1750 parts manual which might make it easier to see which components go where. (Sorry, I can't figure out how to upload attachments!! duhh)

Thanks for replying. Have the carbs off, The gaskets although new are like 'Thin brown paper with no sealant ' Is this correct ? And Is Sealant required ? and to every joining face ie both sides of the gasket ?Thanks zippo and jonathan. ( Just want to get it right this time!)

Ahhh..I figured out how to upload...!! so attached is a pdf of the manifold in the 1750 parts manual.

The two gaskets are pretty thin. When I replaced the rubber mount I made sure the manifold surfaces and the rubber mount surfaces were flat by checking them with a straight edge such as a good steel rule and some engineer's blue. ( a blue dye that you smear thinly on to one surface - mate the parts up - and the high spots will have the dye transferred over.) The high spots I gently filed and scraped back so that the two surfaces would seal well.

I don't usually like to use gasket sealant coz it's always a pain to remove later, but a 'very thin' smear might just save you some future headaches. Just don't let it get it into the intake channels!

Regards Ross

I used a light smaer of Hermetite Red sealant and new paper gaskets. Yes, its a pain to clean off if you need to. Certainly dont want lots of it oozing out into the ports, just a little to ensure a good seal.

If you cat get Hermetite red other non silicone sealers will probably work. RTV Silicone Instant Gasket is the devils work in my opinion and is not suitable.

Jonathan

Just lightly smear some Vaseline on either side of the paper gaskets.
Works a treat.

Originally Posted by RicksAlfas

Just lightly smear some Vaseline on either side of the paper gaskets.
Works a treat.

Just don't let the Vaseline get near anything rubber!!!