For a while now the car would jerk and the injection light came on, but the momentum restarted the engine each time. Last Friday my 1996 155 2.0 16V Super dropped me. When I got in the car after a movie, the engine just turned over with no attempt to fire. The injection light stayed on. I had to flatbed it home. Currently I do not drive with the car, but when idling, it just cuts out all by itself and I need to restart it.
I have read on this BB about the Lambda sensor and the evil things it can do to our cars. Also mentioned is the diagnostic mode. I tried it yesterday evening with my car (the battery was disconnected for 2 days) but nothing happened.
The procedure I tried was to switch the ignition on so that the red lights all come on and then pressing the accelerator 5 times to the floor. Allthough the computer must have been clean from the disconnected battery, at least the 4-4-4-4 code should have been displayed?
The diagnostic doesn't seem to work on the 2.0 16v.
Could be the lambda sensor but sounds more like an ignition problem if the car is stalling and now refusing to start. Check all the usual stuff like leads, plugs, battery connections, earths etc etc......coil packs???
I had a problem with one of my coil packs and never got around to fixing it, sparking to the nerest point except the plug. One day mine would'nt start, after changing this no problem. Like wrinx says best bet is to check all the ignition stuff first, ie rouge sparking.
Wrinx, after searching a bit more on the forum, I found a thread saying that it doesn't work on the 2.0
Ian, how can I check the HT leads? Run the car in the dark and look for blue (after removing the cover naturally ),or is it simply a case of replacing the old cables?
BTW the car has 140000 km on the odo (90000 miles).
I plan to get to the stealership for a diagnosis, it is just that I need as much info as possible so as not to be conned. So far this BB has proven to be VERY informative! It seems that on our cars the Lambda and water temperature sensors are big culprits. If only I had a manual ...
Thanks Mike. These I checked "the morning after" the car died on me.
A good friend of mine likes tinkering around with gadgets and turbos and... He says I can get a bosch Lambda sensor at our local Golfwagen for R500 whereas the agent is charging R900. This is a 25 pound difference for you guys wink
The problem is that it has 4 wires! I gathered ours only has 3? He says you can just earth the one wire and it will do exactly the same. Any ideas?
Also, apparently ALL Lambda sensors give out exactly the same values for exactly the same scenarios. This means that if the housing fits, you can use it. Comments?
Hi there Derik,
Good to see another South African on the forum! Where in S.A. are you?
BTW, be carefull about which dealership you take your car to. Most will just wast your money without solving the problem.
My car also (1996 2l 16 super) had the common lambda sensor problem. Never died though, only missed and lost power. Not perhaps a problem with the immobiliser/coded key????
Hi there AR155, the 2.0 16 valvs. has a four wires lambda and the Bosch N° is 0258 003 772.
It has 2 white wires, one black and one grey.
But, are you sure that this is the problem ?
One way to check if your leads are faulty is to remove the cover and drive around without it on for a while, sometimes it may spark to this if one of the leads is duff. With mine i could actually hear the sparking to someplace else apart from the plug. Spraying a mist of water over the leads could also highlight a weak lead as you should be able to see the sparking, better at night, but must admit i didn't have much success with this one. The only other way is to remove each lead and give them a good clean and inspection, any suspect bits cover them in insulation tape and see if it make any difference.
hi ar155,
how's the problem with ur car? if it's not solved yet, try looking at the flywheel sensor. i had a similar problem a while back, and yes, the diagnostic machien couldn't find it. my mechanic actually had to check all the sensors, one by one. and after 2 days, he found out that the flywheel sensor was faulty.
btw, did u check for the 'over-ride switch' under the front passenger seat? press it and try to start the car. at times, because of some electrical faults, the system will switch it off. by pressing that switch, it might work (some times).
my 2 cents worth.
thanks & happy days
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