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Help MAF clean gone wrong

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clean maf wrong
2K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  Ross 
#1 ·
Help just cleaned the MAF, At the same time i was doing a throttle reset, you know disconect the battery for 45 minutes then turn the ingtion to MAR for 10 minutes then off for 10 minutes then start her up and leave ticking over for 10 minutes. Well when i started her up again the injector light came on and wont go out and the throttle respones is really bad now with the tick over going between 700 ans 1000 rpm.
Any ideas? have i F--ked the MAF does anyone know how to clear the injector light? :(
 
#2 ·
Are you sure you reconnected the MAF? Plug/unplug while running - does it make any difference? If not then either you've foooked the MAF or you've got a problem with connector/cable. Try a known good MAF in place of yours.
Erm normal reset is as follows:
disconnect battery, short black and red leads to empty any residual charge in circuits.
Reconnect battery.
Turn key alway but don't start - leave for 90 secs ie until the stepper motor in throttle body stops whirring and clicking
Turn off for 90 secs. Turn engine on and run without touching throttle for
10 mins ie until warmed up.
Turn off.
It may still run rough to start. I reset mine on Thursday after battery discoinnect (alternator cleaned/serviced). I did 270 miles to Brighton on M1 Sunday - ran as rough as a dogs behind when under load ie uphill for 1st 100 miles but its been smooth and sweet as honey coated sweet thing since. Averaged 82 mph on way back Monday Brighton to Leeds in 31/2 hours not bad going eh?

Ha ha nice avatar - in your dreams man!
 
#4 ·
Yep disconnecting the MAF makes no difference to the running, The throttle responce below 2K is very poor but improves above this, The injector light blinks just after starting up but does not go out i think this means the ECU has recorded an error,So does this suggest a duffed MAF? :(
 
#5 ·
Ross said:
So does this suggest a duffed MAF? :(
I'm afraid but it sounds a "yes". :(
 
#6 ·
Running with the MAF disconnected should give reasonable throttle response (about 90% of normal power), certainly more than you get with a stuffed MAF, and doesn't show any lights on the dash. I think you're reset procedure is more the problem here.
 
#7 ·
Well when running with the MAF disconected is no different, it is fine above 2k but below that it hesitstes and does not rev cleanly at all,
As for the reset ihave done it again with no differance and still the injector light is on which blinks just after starting.
 
#8 ·
Ross: How and with what did you clean it??
 
#10 · (Edited)
Gaz,

I took it off and cleaned it with a "residue free" eletrical cleaner from maplins i replaced it and followed the throttle reset from your site, since then i have cleaned it as per the 156.net site and gone for a half hour drive it is ok above 2k but crap below,if you can offer any help I would appreciate it. :rolleyes:
 
#11 ·
What was it like before you cleaned it?
 
#13 ·
Anyway my new MAF turned up this morning from Desira so i cannot fault them on delivery (ordered at 4pm friday),
It came in Bosch box and has Bosch in the right places on the unit,
I have now fitted it and the injector light went out straight the way and i have now got the throttle response back so it looks like it has cleared that problem, I still have the iregular tick over so it looks like some more investigation is required there.
Gaz can we compare nots on the erritic/lumpy tick over :rolleyes:
 
#16 ·
Have you cleaned the butterfly valve inside the throttle body?
 
#18 ·
Ross: Try this: When you replace the throttle body, put the throttle cable on first WITHOUT the idle actuator ... that way when you move it you do't move the actuator gearing.

Then with the butterfly closed, replace the actuator without moving the butterfly ... hold it shut if you have to ... the "pin" on the end should line up with the hole in the actuator gearing. By doing it this way if the actuator does get moved, it's back to the closed position.

Bolt the actuator back on and then bolt the complete throttle body back on. It's a bit more fiddly but it seemed to cure mine. Whether me resetting the actuator with Alfadiag afterwards helped I'm not sure as the idle was much better. (My actuator had been lying around for about 5 weeks unused as well ...!) Then try the 90sec reset a couple of times. Don't run the car without the air intake pipes/maf/etc or it gets upset!

What was happening with mine was that nasty throttle jerk when throttling back on roundabouts etc. Also trying to hold the revs at 2500 was impossible: the car would drop to 2000 and back up of its own accord. Made getting a MOT almost impossible as it kept failing the emissions.
 
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