My first 6 seconds are diesel tastic in a big way (1.6 120)
Searching through i can see i have variator issues.
i will be needing a 24000 service soon, so some advice really.
do i ask alfa dealer to do this, or do i try the flush idea?
i saw a healthy debate re wether this was any good, what do you reccomend?
lastly, my service is 2k away, does this noise actually cause any hark? (i always let it dissapear before driving off - i just hide so no-one thinks its an oil burner!)
My first 6 seconds are diesel tastic in a big way (1.6 120)
Searching through i can see i have variator issues.
i will be needing a 24000 service soon, so some advice really.
do i ask alfa dealer to do this, or do i try the flush idea?
i saw a healthy debate re wether this was any good, what do you reccomend?
lastly, my service is 2k away, does this noise actually cause any hark? (i always let it dissapear before driving off - i just hide so no-one thinks its an oil burner!)
Hi there, I have used *the flush* method on my 2.0L & found it to be a great success. Prior to using the flush method my Alfenia, thats what i call my baby, used to sound like a tractor every time she was started & even at low revs
Did you know that AR recommond that the engine should be flushed at each service?
The product I used is mentione din this thread, costing approx €8:
200 miles or so before removing the old oil i put in this product. During the 200 mile si drove it as *normal*. When removing this old oil/flush combo i had just driven the car for 90 miles so it was hot...well i let her cool down for 30 min's or so I let it all drip out for another 15 mins & even jacked up one wheel to gat all the old stuff out.
I put in 10w/40 oil & a new filter....... the car now drives faaaar faaaar better & best of all that *sound* is gone, apart from the inital start up after an over night stop.... which lasts for < 1 second. On the move the car is an absolute cracker to go
My advise is to get the same product or similar & flush out your engine. Change the oil yourself & see what difference it makes before spends £600 on a variator & belts.
10w/60 is thicker thatn 10w/60 .... i think you'll find its lighter. The reason people use it is coz it is *lighter* & therefore gets around the oil ways more easily than heavier oil.
10w/60 is thicker thatn 10w/60 .... i think you'll find its lighter. The reason people use it is coz it is *lighter* & therefore gets around the oil ways more easily than heavier oil.
aren't 10w/ 40 & 10w/ 60 the same weight? I thought the difference was the 40 & 60 with the 60 able to sustain higher engine temperatures (ie sporty driving) before breaking-down (or something)
aren't 10w/ 40 & 10w/ 60 the same weight? I thought the difference was the 40 & 60 with the 60 able to sustain higher engine temperatures (ie sporty driving) before breaking-down (or something)
The numbers denote the viscosity of the oil. The second number is the viscosity at high temperature, & is therefore the most relevant for normal operating conditions. A 60 oil will have higher viscosity than a 40. The first number, with the W (for 'winter', NOT 'weight'!) suffix, is the equivalent viscosity at low temperature.
The viscosity of a single-grade oil decreases as temperature rises. Multigrade oils have additives which reduce this change in viscosity, so they flow better at low temperatures, thus reducing wear at start-up, without losing viscosity, & hence film strength, at higher temperatures.
Yes, mine was like that, and it makes perfect sense when you think of an oil being thickest when cold and thinnest when warm (which really applies to all oils regardless of grade).
-Alex
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