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Just bought a 155-this will be a project!

7K views 79 replies 8 participants last post by  shiny_car 
#1 ·
Hi all

Just bought a 1996 widebody.

Rosso red with black speedlines.

Started life as a 2.0, but is now a 1.8.

Will need work-history is patchy to say the least (but I do have the receipt for the new head).

I'll be back with questions when I know just how bad it is!
 
#4 ·
LOL-no, not that much of a project.

Joss said:
I thought the difference between 1.8 and 2 was the block not the head??
Maybe I'm not using the correct terms??? I'll post details of what was done later-definitely looks like the belt snapped and did for the original engine.
 
#3 ·
I thought the difference between 1.8 and 2 was the block not the head??
 
#8 · (Edited)
Here's details of what looks like the aftermath of a timing belt failure.....


Recover Vehicle to workshop - engine damaged
Strip engine as required to assess damage
Cylinder head damaged by valve impact
Remove cylinder head and examine
Replace cylinder head and re-assemble, replacing gaskets as necessary
Replace timing belt and tensioner
Change oil and filter
Check engine diagnostics
Remove and clean idle control valve
All this happened 54 months/67,357 miles after first registration, in September 2000, at a time when I guess the official interval for a timing belt change was 72,000 miles/5 years. Poor bugger! I'm not aware of many Alfas that would have had an engine rebuild in Ireland. There's an invoice for the work so I'm assuming it wasn't done under warranty (plus the fact that a 1.8 appears to have replaced the original 2.0)
 
#10 ·
Here's details of what looks like the aftermath of a timing belt failure.....




All this happened 54 months/67,357 miles after first registration, in September 2000, at a time when I guess the official interval for a timing belt change was 72,000 miles/5 years. Poor bugger! I'm not aware of many Alfas that would have had an engine rebuild in Ireland. There's an invoice for the work so I'm assuming it wasn't done under warranty (plus the fact that a 1.8 appears to have replaced the original 2.0)
Why are you convinced that a 1.8 has replaced the 2.0?????

There is no mention of a block change in the work you have listed for the cambelt repair.

The 16v head is the same for the 2.0 and the 1.8 so the only way to change the capacity is to change the block as the actual blocks are different.

Another giveaway clue will be the presence or absence of balance shafts. The 2.0 has them and the 1.8 doesn't.
 
#9 ·
congrats on the new car! :D

no mention of inspecting the bottom-end (bearings/crank) in your list, but if there's no obvious knocking sounds and the engine runs smoothly, it doesn't sound like an issue.

i look forward to pictures, and to see how it all pans out.

:)
 
#12 ·
Cheers!

Had thought the same myself on the bottom-end, so I'm thinking the engine could well have been replaced after the original engine was rebuilt.

There will be pitcures-and plenty of requests for info from your good self!
 
#11 · (Edited)
Well, the car is now registered (i.e. on the Irish equivalent of the V5 it says 1.8) and taxed as a 1.8. I'll be leaving it with a mechanic to do the belts and give it a good check next week, so I'll ask him. Also, the dealer that did the rebuild is actually still in business-I could always check with them, although this was a long time ago....

Are balance shafts readily visible to an untrained eye?

Just thinking, the engine could have been replaced independently of the work I mentioned above!
 
#13 ·
Well, collected the 155 today and managed to do 120km (as far as my mechanic) without it falling apart-indeed, speeds of up to 130kph were achieved I was led to believe (speedo doesn't work!).

My mechanic confirmed that the engine is a 1.8, so, the original was rebuilt and then replaced! Someone has gone to great trouble to keep this car on the road!
 
#15 ·
Well, didn't fall apart, but a cloverleaf badge that was stuck on the boot fell off as the seller closed it-no harm-saved me taking it off! The wife was most amused of course.

shiny_car-any tips on wet sanding? Need to get rid of the gank that was left behnd the cloverleaf badge, plus will be remviong the 2.0 lettering (as car is now a 1.8) and also noticed some imperfections in the paintwork from the re-spray.
 
#20 ·
hmm, can't help with those electrics. i'd hate to think about it, actually!

shiny_car-any tips on wet sanding? Need to get rid of the gank that was left behnd the cloverleaf badge, plus will be remviong the 2.0 lettering (as car is now a 1.8) and also noticed some imperfections in the paintwork from the re-spray.
i get away with just 2 grades of wet&dry sandpaper; use plenty of 'wet' and always start with minimal rubbing pressure; wipe the surface clean, regularly, to inspect your progress; patience and a gentle approach are key:
800 grade: use fairly sparingly to remove the main blemishes; if particularly deep, you may need to accept having some residual imperfections, or else risk cutting too deeply and right through to undercoat
1500~2000 grade: finish with this

but thereafter, you still need to polish the paint, which of course is best done with a 'machine polisher' (electric (random orbital or rotary) buffer). this itself means a fair bit of investment in extra kit, including the buffer, a couple different grades of pad, and a couple different polishes that have different cutting properties. then finish with a paint cleanser, and wax/sealant.

done properly, you can restore grotty patches using this process. and to do the rest of the car, wash it fully first, and go over with a 'clay' bar to remove stuck-on crud. then do the polishing and waxing.

if you don't have the time or don't want to invest in all the polishing stuff, you can just do the sanding, then employ a professional detailer to go over the whole car with a machine polish and wax.

:)
 
#19 ·
So, one 'interesting feature' of my 155 is as follows-when I switch off the car, the fan stays on! I think the same applies to the wipers. Can anyone suggest what sort of witchcraft may have been performed to leave the electrics in such a state?
 
#21 ·
Thanks as always shiny_car.

My mechanic said pretty much the same about the electrics....of dear :(

I've read that 'wet' involves soapy water? Good idea to use a spray bottle?

Are the 800 and 1500-2000 grades of sandpaper typically available in a hardware/DIY store or do you have to go to a more specialist outlet?

With regard to a polisher, can you recommend a mid-range model?
 
#23 ·
Cheers-£40 is affordable enough-Halfords are selling a 240v polisher for similar money, but from reading the reviews it doesn't sound great. I would normally avoid their own brand stuff anyway.

Have you bought this particular model from e-bay?
 
#24 ·
the ebay one is a 'rotary', which is fine, except is best suited to the experienced user. there's basically two types:

1. random orbital (RO): rather than just spinning in a circular motion, the pad also moves in an orbital pattern; this is better for the novice because it offers a gentler polishing process and therefore harder to get wrong; it will vibrate a bit more and take longer, but probably the better option when you're starting out; at least a 5mm orbit is recommended (as opposed to 2 or 3mm); i have a Metabo (AUS$300~400), but there's other good brands around but you generally get what you pay for

orbital pattern: http://users.accesscomm.ca/john/galaxypattern.gif

2. rotary: the pad simply spins in a circular motion; this allows you to focus more heat in the one spot on the paintwork (heat is what helps 'work' the polish); but excessive heat will burn the paint and damage it, causing micromarring (terrible looking swirl effect; particularly if there's insufficient polish on the pad), cut through the clearcoat, and down to undercoat; so use with much more care, and as such, is better for the experienced detailer who already has the polishing routine/motion down-pat

not wishing to talk you out of it, but my gear (polisher, 3 different pads, 3 different polishes, paint cleaner, wax, microfibre cloths; then clay, quick detailer, products for glass, leather, plastics, etc) probably cost me AUS$800~1000 to set myself up initially. not bought in one go, but accumulated over time. i machine polish and detail my cars lovingly, so it's worth having it all. if you're wanting to do the same, then i encourage you build up you own inventory. :)

:)
 
#28 · (Edited)
#29 ·
i've seen links about the Meg's RO, and the specs look good. it could certainly be a good tool.

ebay link #1: not an RO is it? not clear on what the pads would be like
ebay link #2: as above
ebay link #3: as above
ebay link #4: as above

the pads can make a difference. it's not to say the ebay ones would be terrible, but there's no way to know. as such, i stick with reputable brands: Lake Country CCS (which is what i use), Sonus, Meguiar's.

this is a kit on offer in Australia by a very good detailing company here: Car Care Products / Car Care Products / Detailing Kits / All Categories / RO Polisher DAS6 Kit - Lake Country

it gives you an idea of what i'd happily recommend my mates who are getting into the detailing hobby. they may even ship to the UK if you really wanted. but perhaps there's similar detailing stores you could approach. there's also going to be info on Detailing World forum, which are UK based: Detailing World - A world for detailers by detailers.

:)
 
#31 ·
I have the one in your second link.

It comes with a good selection of pads, including waffle pads (ie not flat), and has a small bottle of polish included - I just got a load of autoglym products to use as well.

It takes a while to get used to it, as shiny says, it is a rotary polisher, basically the same as an angle grinder, but wiith variable speeds.

I had spare panels to try it out on first, and it does bring up the paintwork really well.
I think there is pic on here somewhere from my first go.
 
#32 ·
Ok, so car is not back in my possession yet, but next weekend hopefully :).

Here's what I bought so far

- Red Dot front pads (new but old from e-bay)
- Service CD (I have a feeling I will get great mileage from this!)
- Aerial (spurious bee sting from e-bay)
- New front badge (pricey new on e-bay)
- New rear badge (not as pricey used on e-bay)
- Owners manual (used on e-bay)
- Wheel cap (cheap enough on e-bay)
- Trim remover (e-bay)
- Check panel (lad off Alfa155)
- Roof bars (used on e-bay, bloody postage to Ireland cost more than the bars), hopefully get away with the bike the odd weekend

And I have an agreement to get the following
- Front and rear bumpers (need painting and may need to have holes cut for front washers)
- C pillar trims
- Trim/carpet for roof of boot
- Binnacle
- Drivers side e/w switch
- Both wing mirrors and levers (might swap for the e/m in my car)
- Side skirts (just to have)
- Wheel arch liners (not sure if I need them or not)
- Trim for under lights at front of car
- Mirror and electric window console
- Drivers seat belt console

And I'm still watching a bunch of stuff on e-bay.

Had to pass on a used Sqaudra as it probably wouldn't suit the ECU in my car.

And the wife has kindly bought me mats on e-bay that haven't arrived yet. Reckon I might ask for the Meguiars polisher for my birthday.....

Lot of work still to be done to restore this to it's former glory. Not sure if this will be as impressive as shiny_car's efforts, but I am aiming high!
 
#35 ·
Hi Ciarán, I might drop over tomorrow if I have time, I still havn't seen her:cry:
And I still don't have it! It's in Laois somewhere. Dave said it might be ready next weekend, but then I'm taking it to Roscommon to get the bumpers and exhaust done. If you want to follow me down and get your petrol cap and give me a lift home your more than welcome!
 
#34 ·
You're well on the way, and i'm sure you'll get there!

:)
 
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