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Selespeed: quick DIY problem solving checks

8K views 39 replies 14 participants last post by  Bazz156 
#1 ·
Hey all,
As I'm sure most of you have seen from my other (unintentionally heated thread) my 156 Selespeed wont select any other gear than 1st.


I just wondered what were some quick checks I could do to see if its something simple that I've not done before I take it to a garage? By the way its a 1999 156 Selespeed and a new actuator was put on (by AutoLusso) at end of last year so surely it can't be that!

Any help/suggestions is very much appreciated.
John
 
#3 ·
Thanks, oh and is that dead Selespeed pump or just need to replace my main battery? By the way it does go from Neutral and into first (and I can pull away in first) and I can select back into netural just not any other gears...

Is there anything else simple I can do to check (and hopefully fix the problem myself)?
 
#4 ·
Ok so the pump doesn't sound at all (not even for 1 or 2 seconds) when I open the driver's door.

One thing that seams to be different now is that the car has been sat on driveway for 2 days (not touched at all) and when I started her up and went into 1st as normal but this time when tried to get second a "2" came up briefly on display before it switched back to "N".

Does all this hint to just a possible dead (or very) low battery rather than dead pump?

Cheers guys.
 
#5 ·
Right Just opened the door again and did hear the pump, I don't know if I just couldn't hear it because it was so quiet before. So either it was very quiet (quieter than normal) or it didn't come on.

By the way I don't know if this is accurate way of testing the battery but I just put a handheld volt/circuit tester on two battery terminals and it showed straight to 12volts. Does that definately mean the battery is ok and its the pump or would it always show 12volts even if if was very low (i.e. low enough to not be able to operate pump sufficiently).

Sorry for the tonnes of posts, I'm just at my parents now so can test things and look at it but got to go soon.
Cheers again guys!
 
#6 ·
FYI:
The pump won't run after opening the door ten times without starting the engine.
It will run as soon as you turn the ignition to "Mar" though.
 
#7 ·
Yup I know the pump won't keep running loads without starting engine. Ok so it definately runs when I open the door (after it has been left alone for 30 mins or so) and when I put key to MAR.

I'm not sure if it is quieter than I remember or just that its noisy round here. Anyway David C does it mean that if it shows up 12Volts on battery tester that the problem isn't with the battery?

I don't suppose anyone has the Alfa Diagnostic equipment and live in Manchester/Lancashire Area that might be able to help me out?
 
#8 ·
How accurate is your test meter?
If it is showing below 12.2V, then technically it is flat and needs charging.
A healthy battery will be over 12.6V

However, it will still work below that.
 
#9 ·
Oh right, it reads 13Volts bu would not trust it to be accurate at all (its old and wasn't expensive). I was hoping it would have been clear though like if it was dead it would only read 4Volts (excuse my stupidity on this stuff).

So what do you recon overall David C, I mean the pump definately sounds like its wurring... and like I said a new actuator was put in by Auto Lusso end of last year so surely can't be that.

By the way when I do try and change up to 2nd (when stationary) now it does flash "2" for a split second then back to neutral and I tried double tapping (to try and jump to 3rd) but nothing. When I try to select reverse there is a quiet clunk vibration but then back to "N".

I check the gearbox fluid level is fine also. :confused:
 
#10 ·
Start a new thread 'Alfa diag in manchester area' there is definitely someone in your area with alfadiag but I can not remember who.That way you have more chance they will get in touch.
You are just speculating at the moment.
Check the relays in front of the battery first.
For most of the other checks you need alfa diag.With that you can check the pressure the pump is giving when priming and when changing gear.
 
#12 ·
Jon-Nom-Nom has the A/D software
 
#11 ·
By the way when I do try and change up to 2nd (when stationary) now it does flash "2" for a split second then back to neutral and I tried double tapping (to try and jump to 3rd) but nothing. When I try to select reverse there is a quiet clunk vibration but then back to "N".

Selespeed system doesn't allow to put 3rd gear when stationary.Only 1st,2nd & rear.
 
#14 ·
Some of what I’ve learned

Ok, I've had my time with the sele on my 147.

Here's some of what I’ve learned. :thumbs:

If the engine is off, but key is at "Mar" you should be able to select all 5 (+1) gears. With the engine running and the car stationary, only 1st, 2nd and Rev are available. Neutral is available in all these states, but not when moving above a speed threshold.

The pump only runs if the pressure in the accumulator is below a measured line. (Unless told to by a diagnostic program, EG. AlfaDiag)
While the car stands, the pressure slowly releases and the fluid moves back to the reservoir. When you open the door the system activates. If the pressure is low then it primes, to build pressure in the actuator. If the pressure is high enough it won't prime.

So opening and closing the door won't make it prime every time. The computers also "Shut Down" if nothing happens for a while. (Like when packing the car for a trip or at a picnic.)

Your next step is to open the window (With the engine off), shift into first, then try for second. Listen to any noises it makes. You are listening for the distinctive “chunk, clunk” of a attempted gear change.

That's a big clue as to where the problem lies. If it's not making any noise but is priming then you need to look on the control side.
If it's not priming then that's where you need to look further. Like Pump/ relays / fuses.
Else it's heading back for Actuator or physical damage. A shot clutch / damaged gearbox / failed actuator. :eek:

How hot is it in the car? Mine has a weird issue with a hot passenger cabin heating the ECU and causing all sorts of mischief. :confused:

Report back with what you find.

Oh and as far as I’m concerned, the only what to properly check a battery is to put it to a load test. The nearest battery center / dealer should be able to test it for you. A pure voltage test, checks the current charge state of battery, not the condition of the battery. IE, a battery can be reading fine on the voltage, but the second you actually load it then it collapses. A load test measures the voltage profile as it loads the battery.
 
#15 ·
Ok I didn't know you could only select up to 2nd with engine running and stationary. I will do that test of Key to MAR and try other gears tomorrow when back at parents place. Oh and it isn't hot in the car at all (so don't think its anything to do with that).

Like I said- there is a definatle "chunk clunk" when engine is running and I try to select revers (don't know if that helps).

When you say check the relays on front of battery, what do you mean exactly? How do I "check them" and what am I looking for (sorry I've not got a lot of experience fixing/servicing my own car)?
 
#18 ·
When you say check the relays on front of battery, what do you mean exactly? How do I "check them" and what am I looking for (sorry I've not got a lot of experience fixing/servicing my own car)?
on a 156 remove the black cover in front of the battery and you will see and load of relays, look for the ones marked 50A (one if the rad fan, the other the selespeed pump) and remove, check for corrosion, clean up if needed, ensure the blades are gripped properly etc Swap over with another of similar rating (eg the rad fan) and see if it makes a difference.

All these a relay does is an electrical on/off switch. If you are getting no noise at all from the pump, the relay is a suspect, however if you are getting the pump noise it may be the pump itself at fault.

The symptoms are similar to when I had pump failure, drops into neutral at the end of the road, did not always start as it could not pull the clutch in etc etc. In the end I had to connect up the pump direct to the battery to confirm the pump had gone. One new pump later and all is well.

HTH
 
#16 ·
Johan

Hi John! At this very moment my 147 Selespeed is having the same problem, only mine can skip 1st and go into 2nd. If I only select 1st "1" blings for a moment and it returns to "N" and I can't select any other gears. It doesn't even show selespeed system failure. I also need help and will let you know if I found anything.
 
#17 ·
My problem occurred during the night while I was working night shift. The car was stationary for about 9-hours when I started it up to get the temp up (cause it was -2.5 deg celcius) everything was perfect, but after 5min I tried to engage reverse and it wouldn't let me. I pushed it out of the parking and drove home in 2nd gear. If anyone had similar problems please let me know, I really need your help guys.
 
#21 ·
Hi TheMystic,
No it doesn't select rev (I mean the R doesn't appear in display and won't car won't move backwards) there is a clunk clunk like its trying to then just goes back to "N". Also yes while in 1st the car will pull away just fine until you try and select 2nd.

I am really unsure about messing about with "relays" since I wouldn't even be able to say what one looks like! There isn't a simple "how to" guide with pictures/diagrams anywhere for that (specific to a 156 Selespeed) is there?
 
G
#27 ·
having the same problem with mine, Using alfa diag I have individually tested the gear change actuators - no errors appear on the results- but I did notice that the odd gear change actuator sounded a lot quieter. The ECU (selespeed) had two errors recorded, one relates to a open relay within the ECU (?) I intend to get some contact cleaner today to attempt to reseat and clean all the cables and connectors hopefully sorting any poor connections.
If this fails then I will probably get a new battery, if that fails then I guess the accumulators may need replacing.

I have a 147 -
 
#30 ·
Ok so quick update:
I got the RAC to come around on Friday (at the very least so I could get a free tow to my mate's garage which isn't close). In a stroke of good luck it turns out the RAC man that came also used to own a 156 Selespeed - what are the chances ey?!

Anyway the only thing he did differently was to try and select all the gears while the engine was off but the key was in the MAR position. I can't remember exactly if I tried this, I think I did but anyway then magically it worked!

Took it for a road test and changed up and down fine and could select reverse again. How very strange anyway I think he was just speculating but the heard of some fine adjustment/calibration that needs to be right on the actuator arm or something that might be and explanation but he said that this was just a thought.

Do you guys have any idea what it could have been? I'm just a bit anxious to drive it anywhere now incase it happens again and I'm properly stranded somewhere.
 
#31 ·
I think someone advised that you try selecting gears with the engine off....as part of the diagnostic process.....

The adjustment that he referred to is probably the clutch actuator adjustment...
 
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