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2.0 TS piston removal.

8K views 35 replies 10 participants last post by  Bodger 
#1 ·
Hi folk, Just a bit of info needed for the removal of piston from a 2001 2.0 ts engine. Is it at all possible to remove a piston from the bottom of the engine or does the crank get in the way making it impossible??
 
#4 ·
Is it not possible to replace the piston back through the bottom on these engines then as on some others it is??? I would also think the lip at the bottom of the bore would have a lesser lip than the top being that is the end that takes the compression stroke? Ultimatly I am hoping to check out a loss of compresion in one cylinder without having to remove the head straight away. Any more thoughts??
 
#6 ·
I haven't tried it on a TS engine but thought about it on a Boxer.
I think the problem in that case was that the crank would be in the way and you can't take the crank off without removing the gearbox and all of a sudden you are into more work.

Don't the old techniques for diagnosing compression loss work? e.g. oil down the bores?
 
#7 ·
I've had a piston and con rod out of the bottom of a 1.8 TS engine with the block and crank in situ. The same piston and new con rod went back in through the top using a ring compressor but the head was off. With the crank in position I doubt you would get the ring compressor in place to facilitiate getting the piston back in from underneath. Will you be fitting new rings? You'll want to scuff the bores first right?
 
G
#11 ·
Before you start tearing it apart you need to determine what the problem is. If compression is down on one pot, try putting a bit of oil in there. You don't need much, an egg cup full will do. Do the comp test again with the oil in. If the figure increases, your problem is the bottom end, if it stays the same, it's the top end.
 
#12 ·
Thanks keithyboy, sounds like a good plan. I have only secondhand info to go on at the moment as hsve not picked the car up yet. Other symptoms included oil being forced up the dipstick tube and all over the top of the engine. Initial thoughts of mine were broken ring on the suspect cylinder.
 
#13 ·
Doesn't the dipstick have rubber seals on the top? Are they intact?
These twinsparks all seem to have a bit of crankcase pressure.

How far out as a % is the compression on the suspect cylinder?
 
#18 ·
I have a bit of a theory about black krud in the slots behind the rings ruining compression. If the rings can't move they can't seal against the bores properly and there are also small lubrication holes through from under the piston to the rings that will be blocked.

Has anyone had any success using a flush like Forte?
 
#22 ·
:): :lol: made me chuckle,did the last two postings.

Bodger, those examples by Smaky were from the workshops Black Museum. Yes we had those in the various franchises I worked at in years past, as a sort of example to customers to take advantage of regular servicing facilites. :):

The piston ring grooves build up of carbon problem is greatly reduced by using top quality fuel, and very regular oil and filter changes. It will still however build up a limited amount over high mileages.

I guess you employed the old deliberately snapped piston ring method? Ground to a suitable angle at one end to remove that extremly hard carbon deposit? Am I correct? Slow painstaking process, especially if you have a dozen pistons to de-carbonise? Keep up the good work Bodger matie, I'm glad to see you are back posting.:thumbs:
 
#23 ·
Thanks Smaky,
I haven't tried flush at all, but a local mechanic suggested it had made a difference on a few cars with sticking tappets etc..
I guess a decent oil has detergents that will do the same if it is possible.
ZF- I don't think I had a spare broken ring to use. That sounds like a good technique.
If there was some way of cleaning the slots without pulling the engine apart....
 
#24 ·
Not to my (limited?:(: ) knowledge. The last engine overhauling I did, was on the FIATs we owned at that time.

I carefully removed all of the piston rings, and then cleaned the groooves with the method described? I think I mentioned it before that I then measured the piston rings with a micrometer, and they were all within the tolerances specified in the workshop manual, so I accordingly did not replace them.

Once the motor was back together and running again, it used no oil, and in my humble estimation it ran perfectly.:):
 
#28 ·
That's interesting that it cured your oil consumption. How bad was it before?
 
#27 ·
Piston ring removal? A decent bench vice with soft jaws fitted. Clamp the connecting rod firmly in the jaws of the vice, with the skirt of the piston resting firmly on the soft jaws. Down to 'strongish' fingers and thumbs, with required callouses :): to gently expand the rings and remove them from the grooves slowly. You can insert strip feeler blades in the ring gaps, and then slide them around the piston at various intervals to act as expanders, and then slide the rings up the feeler blades gradually up and off. Probably the easiest method if you do not wish to break the piston rings?:):
 
#31 ·
I'm a very regular oil changer and none of mine have burned oil either.
 
#32 ·
When my engine was rebuilt at 82K the rings on all the pistons shows signs of fatigue ie minute cracks. Bore #1 also had a very very fine scratch .. not deep enough to catch your finger nail, etc but visible none-the-less. When the engine was rebuilt it had new rings and the bores were all glaze-busted which go rid of the scratch.

Before this the engine used the usual 1 litre in 1000-1500 miles, after it uses next to none between oil changes.

I've had the car from new so I know in that time how the engine was treated and that it had regular oil changes. It did have a cambelt failure at 73K and at 82K the #1 big end went, hence the rebuild. The big-end also occurred about the time the engine started to overheat due to a block rad. Whether the overheating caused the ring damage, I'm not sure ... but I think the overheating and the previous cambelt damage were definitely to blame for the bigend shell spinning in the conrod.
 
#33 ·
What kind of oil change intervals were you on before the 82k rebuild?
 
#35 ·
As per the service book ... it was leased for the first three years. But regular top-ups meant the oil changed frequently in between :rolleyes:

Now it's every 6K miles .... nice clean Selenia 20K 10W40 semi-synth.
 
#34 · (Edited)
I just had new rings installed after going through more than 1 liter per 1000 km. The engine used Selenia Racing 10W/60 and the oil change interval was 10,000 km. The rings were way out of spec and the piston tops had a bit of carbon on them, this on an engine with less than 50,000 km on the clock. Fortunately the bores were OK. Shoddy work at the factory I suppose?

I'm going to do 1000km of town traffic, highway cruising and mad sprints to see if the new rings have cured the oil consumption problem. I saw the workshop guys removing the head so that the pistons could come out and go back in from the top.
 
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