I noticed when I turn steering back and forth a slight knock, and if I rock the wheel left and right a slight play, and no play up and down. Also I hear the slight knock when going over bumps in the road.
Also I had new drop links and upper arms so I can rule that out.
I don't know what was stoping it but I undone the top suspension nuts nearly all the way. It came off easy then, so not sure it was or not!
new rack is on and tightened up ish, unions are on and subframe is tight ish as the torque wrench settings in DTE are bloody some foreign style grrrrrrrrr.
I'm so gutted after changing steering rack as the noise is still there and play in track rod Also my gearbox is'nt right as it wont go in to some gears very easy, it must be miss aligned. When I was bleeding the system it made heck of noise when turning steering left or right when engine was running, but was fine when wheels were of the ground with engine off
The reservoir was bubbling like mad, must be all the air coming out when bleeding.
Hi sa155ae, I've been kind a following your undertakings with regard to trying to get rid of the knocking noise with interest. This simply because I'm afraid I've got to do some of it myself before the next local "MOT", due to the knocking noise I have.
What I didn't quite understand is, you say the play is till there in the track rod. You mean the outer track rod end, ..as surely the inner must be fine being part of the reconditioned steering rack or...?
It's a bit hard to say yet, but I was thinking it may have been the track rod end all along especially as the car has only done 51000 miles.
The powersteering specialist guy said it depends how you drive as to how long the steering rack last, but I think by putting sport shocks on may have contributed to that factor.
I been trying to allign the gearbox and engine so that I have all my gears working, Every time I drop the jack the gearbox goes down and I cant get 1st, 2nd gear. It's either the engine & gearbox need to go up a bit, or the handbrake mount need allignment
if you didnt buy genuine alfa re-con rack but got one from a local motor factor then im affraid you have bought something with a nice coat of paint & 2 new gaitors cos the inner rack bars are not available on the after market . so buy a genuine re con and your troubles will be over
Wooo hooo I put gearbox mount to subframe back and all seems ok, I dropped jack off engine and I'm getting gears I hope it's right this time, I only got exhaust and lamda to put back now. I will report back as soon as.
I was gonna go and get it tracked today, but when I set of it didn't sound right and when looking at the front wheels they look slanting out at the bottom:rant: And it looks really low on front end (I have lowerd it) but it seemed lower
Lowering the car will cause more negative camber ie wheels lean in at top, that's why we sportpack/veloce onwers get the inner edges wearing quicker and need to go to 0 toe-in.
when you dropped the subframe, the springs didn't drop out on place did they? (Shouldn't have as I've dropped the struts to change the upper wishbones on mine a couple of times without a problem).
What do you mean drop out on place?
I did loosen the nuts from top of shock and upper arm if thats what you mean, as the subframe seemed as if it was catching and wouldnt lower any more.
Ah when I got the tracking done last he set it to what it says in manual and not 0 toe in as you say.
I found out where its catching, there is a paddle on gearbox like a weight thing that is knocking one of the unions on the steering rack when I put it in first and second gear. So I have to move the engine / gearbox enough to clear it somehow.
I took it for 4 wheel tracking today and it was way out, that's probably why it felt really odd when driving it up there
He set it to 7 on back and +1 -1 on front, he said they cancel each other out anyhow!
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