found this in my sump (plus short video of chrank) what do you think??? - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Old 11-07-11
Status: spider up and running, next the mot
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found this in my sump (plus short video of chrank) what do you think???

i found this in the bottom of my sump along with a few very fine small bits of mashed mettle
Attachment 121072

Attachment 121073

i think this pumps oil upto the pistons, if this is been broken would it cause any damage??

the engine ran fine when i looked at it??? could have it been when the engine being delivered?

also theres a sort video of my crank and shells.....what do you think?

YouTube - ‪100_2962.MOV(crank)‬‏

the crank looks good but shells dont?

your thoughts please, cheers jon

Last edited by jonalfaspider; 24-11-11 at 13:10.
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Old 13-07-11
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any advise would be much appreciated as i dont know much about cranks, thanks jon
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Old 13-07-11
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Its a oil spray pipe for the small ends of the pistons, make sure all 4 are there one on each piston.
look inside the block from the bottom at the base of the cylinder should be that pipe pointing at the piston.
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Old 13-07-11
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Hard to see from the video, but based on the state of the shells and the noise it made....crank is likely done for too.

At the very least, it needs measuring properly.

Sorry
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Old 14-07-11
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Originally Posted by ChrisS View Post
Hard to see from the video, but based on the state of the shells and the noise it made....crank is likely done for too.

At the very least, it needs measuring properly.

Sorry
1+ i forgot to mention the crank, you need to have a mirror finish almost any groves that you can feel with your fingernail is a no no...
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Old 14-07-11
Status: spider up and running, next the mot
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thanks for the reply guys, found the broke oil pump (thanks biffa) and got a replacement

i should explain it abit better, my bottom end went on my spider (all the other vids on my you tube) so i bought a replacement engine (the video on the link) its done 66k, and i heard this engine running, it seemed fine, no tapping or knocking etc. i wanted to check everything and replace the shells, belts and clutch as advised on this forum

so the pics and video is what i found in my sump and my crank from the new engine. the crank itself definitely has no scores that i can put my nail in (i had a really good look but there are like little smudge marks and one copper colour smudge), also there was little bits of mashed up mettle in the sump too? i assume they are from the shells as they look well worn down to the copper so must be original shells. my original bottom end was well knackard the shell was half enbedded on the crank and the other half in the case so really easy to see the damage ii have also posted some more pics of the crank in next post
Attachment 121291Attachment 121292

also compareing the new shells to the old ones, the new ones fit tighter while the old ones seem too curved so they didnt fit in the case/hold very well, does this happen over time? or could the crank be out of shape, bending the old shells? (no idea)
Attachment 121288Attachment 121289

Last edited by jonalfaspider; 24-11-11 at 13:15.
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Old 14-07-11
Status: spider up and running, next the mot
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more pics of the crank

Attachment 121294Attachment 121297

Attachment 121298Attachment 121295

Attachment 121296

if i have a crank regrind do i need special shells

or i have seen a re manufactured one like i have seen on ebay, could i just put it straight in?

Last edited by jonalfaspider; 24-11-11 at 13:15.
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Old 14-07-11
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crank looks good tbh, you need to check the old shells to make sure they are still standard. If you get the crank reground the workshop that grind it should be able to provide you with oversized shells...
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Old 14-07-11
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crank looks good tbh

Woohoo! i was hoping someone would say that

you need to check the old shells to make sure they are still standard

the codes on the original are fm 4350cp-std

on the new ones i bought they are std 4350cp..........the same but written the different way around?

do i have to put the shells in a specific order?
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Old 14-07-11
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std means standard, so you have the right shells, the conrod caps should go back on the same conrod they came off, and the top and bottom shells should have the cut outs on the same side...
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