What is the best way to wash my giulietta (etna black)? - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Old 03-07-11
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What is the best way to wash my giulietta (etna black)?

Hi all.

I took delivery of a lovely etna black giulietta (1.4 MA Veloce) in the middle of May.
She's amazing!

I mainly use cold water with a pressure washer (no shampoo or anything).

Today, I did the same. But some of the dirt was still visible. I had some autoglym shampoo in the garage so washed a small part of the car to see what would happen. I wasn't happy with the results so I just left it in case something happened. I noticed some small lines in the area I used the shampoo - part of me thinks that it's the etna black with the sun showing this strange effect. But not fully sure.

What's the best shampoo to get for washing??
Should I be using a sponge? i.e have one bucket with shampoo and another bucket with cold water to wash it off?

Basically, I'm looking for good washing tips and ticks.
It's clear to me that just normal water through a pressure isn't going to work.

Thanks a mill,
spanner
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Old 03-07-11
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lambswool wash mitt
Zymol coconut shampoo
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Old 03-07-11
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Old 03-07-11
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This is how I was mine.

Rinse with Pressure washer
Apply snowfoam (watch vids on youtube, it's brill.)
Rinse again with pressure washer
Wash with a bucket of warm water and Autoglym Bodywork Shampoo Conditioner (you can use 2 buckets as most do on here, one with the shampoo in it and one to rinse your mit.)
Use either a Lambs wool washmit or a microfibre one.
Then rinse again with the pressure washer.

If you want to dry it then use a microfibre cloth.

P.S. when washing dont wash in a circular motion, go either left to right or up and down to avoid swirl marks.

Hope this helps a bit and enjoy your new car


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Old 04-07-11
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Just to re-emphasise the importance of using a washmitt, not a sponge. If you get swirly marks, its often harsh objects like sponges, chamois, brushes etc that cause it.
Buy yourself something like the Meguiars lambswool mit, I've used autoglym shampoo for years and its great, rinse and use a drying towel. If you want a really shiny effect on your black, go for autoglym HD wax or if you can afford it Dodojuice. If you're short of time, Autoglym aquawax is a brilliant product to protect your paintwork. Will take 20 mins to apply to a G


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Old 04-07-11
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I have worked on a few Etna Black MiTos and do find the colour to be a right pig to get streak/ spot/ mark free if I'm not correcting/ sealing I've resorted to using deionised water for the final rinse and this seems to work well. Its just one of those colours for showing up marks Oh and its pretty soft as modern Alfa paint goes so will marr easily if your less than careful with your wash routine.

Good luck
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Old 04-07-11
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It will also help if you have a good wax protective layer. This will make washing the car much easier.
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Old 06-07-11
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You do need to use a car shampoo. Part of it's job is to help remove the dirt.. either by helping to dissolve it or by clingining to it and making it softer, and lifting it off the paint... but it also lubricates the grit particles as you wipe them off with your mitt. If you use a sponge particularly and no shampoo the grit in the sponge gets dragged across the paint surface and will mark it over time.

Having said that, don't get tooooo hung up in the sponge vs mitt. The most important thing is that the beast is spotless. Use 2 buckets.. one with the soapy water and another (clean warm water) just to rinse the sponge/mitt in before you dip it back into the soapy bucket. If you have a sponge.. at this point just rinse it more than seems natural and check the face is clean... you have to be pretty obsessive).

Also your sponge/mitt is not a scouring pad. It's to remove dust, grit and dirt that comes off by wiping it. If anything else is left on the surface.. don't get hung up on it. Just leave it for the moment.

So...

Rinse the car. Using snow foam helps the water cling to the car.. softening and lifting the dirt... but it's not essential. You can introduce that into your routine later.

Wash the car with your 2 (shampoo and sponge/mitt rinsing) buckets

Rinse the car.. using clean water. De-ionised may be good if you wash the car in sunlight or you have particularly hard water. Try to wash in the shade if possible.

Dry the car. Again.. chamois has its detractors but only people who don't keep it obsessively clean.. Use a micro-fibre towel for the time being if you want to avoid controversy on the forum Don't scrub it.. you only want to get the water off.

Have a cuppa. That lets the car finish drying naturally.

Get yourself a clay kit and veeeeey gently just go back to those marks and lumps of dirt that didn't come off when you washed it. Use a fair bit of the lubricant and wipe it with the same amount of pressure that you might use to write. Failing that.. if the marks are "tar" (on the sides of the doors usually) then dab some paraffin onto a clean cloth and wipe it off. Be careful though. Clean cloth can mark the paint... You're not rubbing the tar off, you're dissolving it.. so that should tell you how much pressure to use (i.e. hardly none).

Your paint is probably a bit streaky now. You want some glaze and some wax.

Etna black was invented for Poorboys Black Hole glaze (some say it was the other way round). This is neither a polish or a wax.. (it's a glaze) so you're not rubbing it on.. you're smoothing it over the surface. You need an applicator pad. Apply it all over.. let it dry and then microfibre towel it off. Your paint should look pretty saucy now.

Wax the beast with your favourite wax. Autoglym Super Resin Polish etc. is not a wax.. You need a pukka wax, not a combined (polish-filler) product .. otherwise you'll remove that glaze you just put on. Try Poorboys Natty Blue since it smells of bubble gum.. but there's a million products out there with a fan-club.

Apply it with an applicator. Meguiars sell an applicator twin-pack. How handy is that?

While that's curing ... do your wheels and tyres since they'll look minging now compared to the paint. Wheels.. you can wipe off the water spots and leave them.. or use a wheel wax/sealant on them to keep them shiny. Essentially it's a tougher version of "wax".. Again, there are plenty of recommendations to be found but "Rim wax" seems popular (can't remember who makes it... ) I use the same wax I used on the body.. since I always forget to buy wheel wax when the old one runs out..

Finally.. get your towel out and buff off the body wax. Your car should look like someone swapped it for a new one when you weren't looking.. Have another cup of tea while you admire the view.

Rinse (actually wash) your sponge/mitt.. chamois... and any applicators that look a bit dirty (they shouldn't do, logically). I use the soapy water left in the wash bucket (not the black water in the rinse bucket) and then give them a final rinse under a tap. You really want these to be immaculately clean for next time. Leave somewhere clean to dry.. put them away somewhere safe until next time (i.e. not on the garage floor).


Ralf S.


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  #9 (Post Link)  
Old 06-07-11
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Excellent guide there, Ralf

Originally Posted by Ralf S. View Post
Again, there are plenty of recommendations to be found but "Rim wax" seems popular (can't remember who makes it... )
It's made by Smartwax and is very good
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Old 06-07-11
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couple of minor points to add

Dodo Juice Born to be Mild is superb, and last for ages, and, unlike most other shampoos, does not strip off wax

and best source of de-ionized water is the tumble drier

HTH
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Old 06-07-11
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Good guide Ralf! Hope this helps some of the members who really want to keep their bellas beautiful

Originally Posted by Ralf S. View Post
Essentially it's a tougher version of "wax".. Again, there are plenty of recommendations to be found but "Rim wax" seems popular (can't remember who makes it... ) I use the same wax I used on the body.. since I always forget to buy wheel wax when the old one runs out..
I bought some AutoFinesse Mint Rims the other day, not tried it yet but it does smell... minty. I'll let you know how it is in the future.
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Old 10-07-11
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Removing all the talk of glazes as waxes for a moment, the best wash routine is always the same, pre wash, contact wash, thorough rinse (free flowing) and dry. All are essential. The pre wash can at the very least be a cold jet wash to remove loose larger dirt particles, thus reducing the amount of dirt to get dragged over the car in your contact wash. Better still would be a pre foam which not only picks up the loose particles but softens more stubborn dirt also. Jet wash off then wash usingthe 2 bucket method and a nicely lubed shampoo with a wash MIT or pad, then rinse with free flowing water this will reduce the chance of water spotting. Then it's important to dry to further reduce water spotting, best to use plush micro fibre towels here and pat dry further reducing the risk of inducing marring. I use bilt hamber auto foam and duragloss 901 they are both kind on waxes and great cleaners
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Old 13-07-11
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Thanks

Wow guys. Thanks for all the information. It was nice of you all.

I've a busy few days trying to get some of cleaning materials mentioned above.

Thanks again :-)
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Old 13-07-11
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Feel free to post some pics after you get it all nice and pretty. We all do it lol.
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Old 27-10-11
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Hi
Try the range of DODO Juice products, they are fantastic.
My best tip is after the final rinse, fill a bucket of warm water and add a good few generous squirts of dishwasher rinse aid, result is a streak free finish.
Steve
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Old 27-10-11
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Do you pour the bucket over the car or use the contents to wipe it down or what?
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  #17 (Post Link)  
Old 16-02-12
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Great guide Ralf, thanks! I'm doing my first ever 'proper' clean this weekend on a Mito I just picked up last weekend...I'll be using your method!
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Old 17-02-12
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I had an Etna Black MiTo and I found that as some have said above using a lambs wool washmitt, 2BM, snow foam, etc and going back and forth in straight lines rather than in circles reduced the swirl marks a lot. Though as Lewi said, the paint is very soft, so let the mitt glide. I used ValetPro Poseidon's Carnauba wash shampoo, very slick and gives a great finish. I also used ValetPro Citrus Bling, diluted 3 to 1 as a drying aid and used large drying towels to dry it off. I then finished off with Zaino Z8 Grand Finale spray and it really showed the red flecks in the paint when it was sunny!


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Old 19-02-12
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Well...my clean didn't work out as planned Forgot the shampoo (washed the car at my sister's house) so had to use what she had - some turtle combined wash and wax. Eek. Then was scared to add carlack 68 and 476 wax 'cause i didn't know how it would work with the turtle product. I'm such a paranoid newbie!

Anyhow, did a basic clean with the turtle product using the mitts and the 2 bucket method so I'm off and running. Next time I'll do it more 'properly'

Unfortunately, it's highlighted just how many stone chips I have across the bonnet and on the rear wheel arches...
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Old 22-02-12
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Something it seems you have all missed is what i do first.. thats to use a bug, tar remover on the lower half of the car. get a good citrus spray, leave on for 60 seconds and then preassure wash the car.

Although you might not be able to see most of the contaminents, trust me they are there.this will take the worst off before you wash and clay.

Having tried alot of waxes i feel the best buy is the "R222" the one with the silver lid. costs about 40quid however you get about 100 full coats out of it so it will ladt for years. It is also very easy to apply and even easier to buff off.
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  #21 (Post Link)  
Old 16-10-12
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My best tip on his one is to get a water butt and use the water from this for the final rinse. NO water marks at all.
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