AQuartz Iron Cut

GIZTO29 · #1 (**Post Link**) 11-06-10

Ive mentioned this in another thread but this stuff looks awesome!
Heres a vid of it in action....

Iron Filling Removal with Iron Cut (Video + Pictures) - Detailing World

Its in cyc's shop now.
Aquartz Iron Cut 500ml
Phil

bigjim · #2 (**Post Link**) 11-06-10

you getting any?

#3 (**Post Link**) 11-06-10

Originally Posted by bigjim

you getting any?

Given the amount of time he must spend keeping his car that clean, I would say clearly not!

10,500RPM · #4 (**Post Link**) 11-06-10

I have it too, it's really handy for stubbon marks on multispoke wheels. I'm waiting for a white car to come in so I can clay half of a bonnet before I use Ironcut to see what happens.....

GIZTO29 · #5 (**Post Link**) 11-06-10

Originally Posted by bigjim

you getting any?

I want but im gettin the camera this week so no funds

Defo like the look of it though!

Originally Posted by keithyboy

Given the amount of time he must spend keeping his car that clean, I would say clearly not!

How untrue....i havnt cleaned the car for 2 weeks

Thanks to the gigantic rain clouds over the toon!

Originally Posted by 10,500RPM

I have it too, it's really handy for stubbon marks on multispoke wheels. I'm waiting for a white car to come in so I can clay half of a bonnet before I use Ironcut to see what happens.....

Interesting, it looks like a mint product

BUT what would i do to the G1 on the glass?

10,500RPM · #6 (**Post Link**) 11-06-10

Interesting question, I'll find out tomorrow (shed window

)

10,500RPM · #7 (**Post Link**) 12-06-10

Iron cut doesn't remove G1, it just beads

Also, I did my parents car today, PTG readings were between 84.9 and 101 microns

The original plan was 203S and PO85RD, (great combo on Mazda RX8's) but I had to scrap that plan.
The car has never been machined polished by me and they have had it since new, friggin Jap paint

. Primo Amigo saved the day

GIZTO29 · #8 (**Post Link**) 12-06-10

The sun is a bloody nightmare innit! My drive is in the sun from 9 ish till 7 at night lol....when its out. Ive been given a gazebo but it looks like a chew on to set up lol.
Even that higher reading is low isnt it? Mine was done with the PTG and read 140uM nearly everywhere. Looks awesome mate. Good to hear about the G1 laughing at Iron Cut mind! Defo gonna get some. Ive got my 2 flexipad backing plates for the rotary today and have ordered some cg hexlogic pads off the group buy on DW. Save about £8 for 3 pads delivered.
Speaking of gazebos this one looks canny as its already up.
http://www.thesportshq.com/10-x-20-g...ay-design.aspx
Phil

10,500RPM · #9 (**Post Link**) 12-06-10

That's a friggin cheap gazebo. I have my own unit but I couldn't use it today because my parents needed to take mine and I'm not insured to drive theirs.

The flexible backing plates and CG hexlogic pads are an amazing combination, they keep heat and pressure down so rotray polishing is a lot safer and less stressful. I won't reccomend buying Ironcut to anyone until I see what it does if it's used after claying. Don't get me wrong it is proving to be a fantastic product for me at work but if you keep ontop of you maintenance it may just be a waste of money. I'm trying to get my hands on my cousins, cousins white (1996 ish) saxo, only gets washed for mot and it's the perfect test for ironcut

Re PTG readings: Most cars fall in the 120-140 micron region so 101 is a very low reading for an upper limit, the average readings were in the low 90s. My own car is shockingly high. You'll see just how high if I ever get around to converting my pictures from raw to jpeg (or something like that).

GIZTO29 · #10 (**Post Link**) 12-06-10

Nice bike btw! As i said in my other thread ive seen some interesting new gear today (stjarnagloss and migliore) which i hope to try soon.

I first thought the Iron Cut was a replacement for claying but it doesnt seem so

bigjim · #11 (**Post Link**) 13-06-10

Meguiar's, Autoglym, Collinite, Insta Finish, Poorboy's, Dodo Juice, ValetPro, Einszett, Chemical Guys, Eurow, Lake, Kestrel, RainX - the best car care - Shinearama
that stuff seems good value. i'll leave the migliore to those who know what they're doing, bit out of my price range.

bacon · #12 (**Post Link**) 09-07-10

Ive got a big problem with brake dust up the sides of me car. It just wont shift and leaves a rough browny/yellow surface that feels 'baked' onto my paint. Its horrible and seems to show up even more when my car is washed.

I bought some of that IronCut a few months ago and used it for the first time yesterday to see if it'd work on the problem brake dust.

I knew it'd have its work cut out with the amount of carbon-metallic race pad dust up the sides of me car that ive not been able to shift so far.

I washed and dried me car and sprayed the clear liquid on (smells like a stinkbomb) and it got to work straight away turning purple where there were metal deposits and just rinsed off after a couple of minutes. It semed to work quite well TBH, but didnt shift all of it cos there was still yellow marks and a slightly rough feeling surface, abliet less rough.

Due to the sheer amount of dust and contaminates up the sides of my car to start with, I thought i'd give it another spray, this time there was less colour change so it'd obviously removed a fair bit of crap the first time but not all of it and after this application, the surface felt far smoother.

I was very happy with the results although it still didnt remove it all and there is still a very slight yellowy/brown residue on top of my paintwork. I get the feeling that I could have carried on and spraying and rinsing over and over again to make sure I removed it all/or the bottle ran out whichever was sooner but id used about a third of the bottle as it was and ran out of time so I left it at that.

Overall, I was very impressed, cheers for the heads up Phil. It didnt remove it all but if I used the whole bottle I think it would have been somewhere near. I cant emphasise enough the size of the problem I had with the brake dust up the sides of me car though. If you ran the back of your hand down the doors, it felt a bit like fine snadpaper, it was horrible stuff that just didnt seem to shift so even though it didnt shift it all I struggle to think of another product that would have worked so well. From what I can gather even claying wouldnt have been able to shift this stuff - does anyone know if this is correct?

Also, does anyone know if the IronCut will affect and polish/wax/sealant that may already be on the paint?

Heres a few pics of it at work, bearing in mind it sprays on colourless...
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...2010193810.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...2010193304.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...2010193304.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...2010183655.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...2010183047.jpg

GIZTO29 · #13 (**Post Link**) 10-07-10

Hi Bacon, im glad to see its worked in a fashion. Ive PM'd Aquartz regarding the LSP (last stage protection) question so i'll let you know when i get an answer but if you look at the early part of the thread 10500rpm tried it on his GTechniq C1 sealant and it just beaded

. Heres another thread showing its effectiveness. Im yet to use the stuff....
IronCut Alpina Wheel NO-Touch cleaning - Detailing World

Also, heres the AQuartz thread on DW if you want anymore info on their products.
Aquartz - Detailing World
Phil

GIZTO29 · #14 (**Post Link**) 11-07-10

Heres Avi from Aquartz's response regarding the LSP question Bacon....

Originally Posted by GIZTO29
Hi, a friend has been using Iron Cut on his 147 GTA and was wondering what effect it will have on his LSP. Can you give some feedback on this matter thanks.
Phil
Hi Phil
IC is waterbase, no alcohol inside or Alkali acids which can affect your LSP
it should attack only the iron particles,
i hope my answer helps.
cheers
Avi
So it seems your wax/sealant should be ok Bacon as 10500rpm found.
Phil

Actually Bacon, ive just thought of something.... heres a part of youre post that stood out to me and may explain alot.

Originally Posted by bacon

I knew it'd have its work cut out with the amount of carbon-metallic race pad dust up the sides of me car that ive not been able to shift so far.

I think the particles that still remain are carbon which is non metallic (thanks for backing that up wiki) hence will not be removed by the ironcut which has done its work on the metallic particles. I would say you need to clay to remove the rest.
Anyone elses thoughts?

EDIT: ive just had another response from Avi....

he need to rub it into the paint, it will agitate better, rub it with sponge pad,
if its irons or carbons it will remove them after 2 passes or three ,
anyway IC is not to replace claying also, so that roughness can be other dots particles which he need to clay.

Hope this helps, Phil

bacon · #15 (**Post Link**) 13-07-10

Cheers Phil, much appreciated mate. Good to know it wont affect the 'LSP'.
Thats a very good point about the remaining crap being carbon related.

Do you reckon claying will remove the remaining crap then or wha?

Thanks again.

GIZTO29 · #16 (**Post Link**) 13-07-10

Originally Posted by bacon

Cheers Phil, much appreciated mate. Good to know it wont affect the 'LSP'.
Thats a very good point about the remaining crap being carbon related.

Do you reckon claying will remove the remaining crap then or wha?

Thanks again.

No probs mate, if you read Avi from AQuartz's response just above he said you will need to clay. It could be all manner of things. Sap, Overspray, Carbon although he does say that it should remove that

He does say that if you agitate it when its working it will be more successful

Phil

springbok · #17 (**Post Link**) 14-07-10

Just to change the emphasis somewhat; if you are experiencing this radical brake dust problem on the sides of your car, then you also need to keep those areas extremely well protected with wax/sealant, wash often and consider using a Quick Detailer regularly to remove the dust before it bonds in to paint.

bacon · #18 (**Post Link**) 14-07-10

Originally Posted by GIZTO29

He does say that if you agitate it when its working it will be more successful

Haha, sorry Phil, I should haver re-read it.

Originally Posted by springbok

Just to change the emphasis somewhat; if you are experiencing this radical brake dust problem on the sides of your car, then you also need to keep those areas extremely well protected with wax/sealant, wash often and consider using a Quick Detailer regularly to remove the dust before it bonds in to paint.

This is a good point. Ive got Zaino Z8 - is that a quick detailer? Can I only use a quick detailer just after its had a wash?

Cheers

bigjim · #19 (**Post Link**) 14-07-10

i think z8 is more of a final bling, semi sealant kinda thing. anyway, it's too expensive to use as a qd. any of these will do
products in the Quick Detailers category - Shinearama

bacon · #20 (**Post Link**) 14-07-10

Originally Posted by bigjim

i think z8 is more of a final bling, semi sealant kinda thing. anyway, it's too expensive to use as a qd. any of these will do
products in the Quick Detailers category - Shinearama

Thanks Bigjim

.

Any of them QD's in particular for Alfa red?

bigjim · #21 (**Post Link**) 14-07-10

not sure any of them are colour specific. i doubt it. as with a lot of these places, they tend to have a flat delivery rate, so either get a few bits or a big 5litres of megs. i'm all about detailing on a budget me

or if in doubt find your local AG rep and buy a trade size one off of him. that's where i got my aquawax from.

twissler · #22 (**Post Link**) 14-07-10

Sounds like its ideal for alloy wheels. May have to try some.

GIZTO29 · #23 (**Post Link**) 14-07-10

Bacon, i would recommend either Meguairs Last touch which is £23 for 3.87ltrs (1 gallon) which can be diluted normally 1:1 or another good one is Optimum Instant Detailer which comes in 1 ltr for around £15 but can be diluted 1:4 i think. Theres many more to consider though

Serious Performance products are highly spoke of and their Detail Spray is great...
Products - Serious Performance
LSP wise Bacon consider getting some Finish Kare 1000p. It should last around 6 months no bother which would probably be ideal for you and looks awesome. Its cheap as and the tin is a monster! Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Sealant
Phil

springbok · #24 (**Post Link**) 15-07-10

Megs QD is good. You can use a QD anytime. You can use it after a wash but before you dry or on its own. You can use it to clean off bird sh*t etc. Its great stuff.

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