Nice box of stuff lad!
The G220 comes with a large 5" (125mm) backing plate for which I bought a Lake Country "orange" (polish) and "green" (glaze) 6.5" (165mm) pads.
For localised polishing , I bought a small 3" (75mm) backing plate and a "spot" pad 4" (100mm) and it's dead handy for confined areas.. the bigger pad either passes over trim, tends to detach from the backing plate and/or you get polish flying everywhere, as it's not in contact with a surface.
SSR1 is very mild. It removes minor swirls and gives a very deep shine. My old beast has plenty of deeper swirls, scratches and marks though.. so in the end I had to also get some SSR2 for that (it may even need some 2.5!) but I didn't know how aggressive these polishes were, so I wanted to start off with the mildest.
Anyways, with SSR1 and a G220, I'd say it was impossible to damage the paint.
I haven't been using a machine long (just the last 18 months) and I was a bit worried about being too aggressive on the paint but I think it's dead simple. If you have a good pad, a polish like SSR1 and a G220, you just prime up the pad (make an "X") dab it on the panel in a few places and then, with the pad held against the surface, start the machine and off you go. Don't press the polisher to the paint.. just apply as much pressure as the weight of the machine (on a flat panel, I more or less just rest the machine on the panel).
You'll get the hang of it. You can increase the speed once the polish has been absorbed by the pad ( it flies everywhere, if you do it too soon, so you can quickly work out when the right time is) and then just work it until it turns into a haze. The SSR1 breaks down really fine.. you'll see that it looks like it's dried but if you work it some more it goes a bit like oil mist. In the end you'll sort of know when to stop.
First few times though you'll stop and buff off the polish, impatient to see what's happening underneath .. so you'll be able to judge how much longer you need to buff. My view is just be reasonable on the paint.. you can always come back and do it some more.. just don't work it, or the pad too hard and don't let either get too hot.
After the polish, use a glazing pad to put some Black Hole on.. using the machine for glazing doesn't add much extra to the results, for me.. but you have it out already and it saves some time (and elbow grease).
Then remember to wax it. Black Hole is a glaze so it's filler rich.. but unfortunately, those fillers will evaporate away pretty quickly without a wax to hold them in the paint. Apply wax with one of those applicator pads you have (a bit moist helps) though your paint will be so smooth you'll want to do it by hand! (Your hands will be impossible to wash for weeks though!
)
And do it in the shade.. PB stuff doesn't mind sunshine.. but it's hot out there and you'll be more comfy in the shade.
Ralf S.
Did you know..?
Ive been using Black Hole for about a month now and its awesome stuff! As are all the Poorboys products ive tried! Ive just got the wheel sealant as you wouldve seen in the pics so plan to use that soon (another lengthy process)! Cant wait to get some pads tomorrow. I might just stick with the Dodod Juice Lime Prime for my polish as some guys have had great success on Det World & CYC.co.uk forums. Then BH then try out my DJ Supernatural. Im liking the sound of the Chem Guys Butter Wet Wax aswell, oh and CG Petes 53 Wax. Note to self...'i have bloody loads of stuff, calm down!'
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