Alfa Red 159 - best polish? - Alfa Romeo Forum
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Alfa Red 159 - best polish?

I'm looking to get rid of the swirls and a few light scratches on my 159, been looking at all the different polishes and not 100% which would be best to go for. I have access to a cheap rotary polisher and also a DA.

Folks who have done a 159, what did you go for polish wise?

Thanks
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If you've no experience using a DA polisher I wouldn't suggest you go any where near your P&J with it. If you really want to go this direction atleast get an old bonnet or panel to practice on first....

If you decide not to use a DA,then a product like poor boys black hole is full of fillers and will help hide your paint imperfection and a half decent wax like soft99 Fusso king of gloss to seal and wax. Both products are cheap enough and won't break the bank and give you good results

2010 Alfa 159 Ti - 2.0jtdm - black - Tan leather - AHM remap 220bhp -
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Originally Posted by johnsy View Post
If you've no experience using a DA polisher I wouldn't suggest you go any where near your P&J with it. If you really want to go this direction atleast get an old bonnet or panel to practice on first....

If you decide not to use a DA,then a product like poor boys black hole is full of fillers and will help hide your paint imperfection and a half decent wax like soft99 Fusso king of gloss to seal and wax. Both products are cheap enough and won't break the bank and give you good results
dont think you know as much as you think. DA is as safe as you can get, the polisher will stop spinning at angles it finds too much pressure from unlike Roterys which creates heat at a much faster rate and can burn the clear 3-5+ times faster then a DA.

A Da is super forgiving in that you can be a first time user, watch a video on youtube and do exactly what they do and succeed more or less. the outcome depends on what kind of paint it is, which pad your using (polishing pad, medium cutting pad or heavy cutting pad) and the cutting ability of the compound/polish being used... usually alfa paint/fiat paint is soft so a medium green/white foam pad with a medium to heavy cut compound will be fine for 95% of the scratches. technique, pressure and speed within that technique also apply s but that will come with the hours you spend doing it.

doing a whole car thats never been compounded/polished before takes.. 15-25 hours and that only gets you to.. 90-95% ish of the scratches. this includes a pre rinse, a degreaser, a de ironing, a soapy bath and then claying the car for the remaining contaminates in the paint. only now can you start polishing your car.

Key words:
Compounding: using heavy cutting materials to level the scratches, this creates micro marring or hazing
Polishing: Using lighter compounds to level the micro marring/ hazing and get the shine out of the paint.

Myths: waxes and sealants dont bring any shine to the paint, its for protection. you can fill the scratches with fillers/glazes all you want but it will only last for a few weeks and the scratches come back.
The shine comes from leveling the paint and cutting down on the hills and valleys of the scratches by compounding/polishing the paint.

Step 1:


How to safely wash a car:


Step 2
Decontamination
This would be just a spray on: IronX, Tar X, Mac 124 Prickbort
Step 3: Clay

Step 4: Compounding And Polishing

any DA with 500+ watts is fine. they cost like 90 ish. more watts the better tho.

can do this on wheels as well:

I did both of these on my car except i did a ceramic coating meaning i put a 3-5 year clear coat on my car so the dirt will repel easier and wont stick as easy on the paint: http://imgur.com/a/lutAj and http://imgur.com/a/xJMNj
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Last edited by WillieNillie; 1 Week Ago at 21:46.
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WillieNillie is spot on. Don't listen to johnsy and don't use the cheap rotary.
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Between the two polishers, the DA will be the safer bet. A rotary is much faster than a normal DA but there is a much steeper learning curve. A rotary is not a fire breathing machine which will burn through paint in a second but it takes a while to learn how to control it. Many will rightly point out how safe a DA is but this is relative to a rotary, a DA is still a power tool and if abused it can damage the paint.

It is very important to get the paint to be very clean and free from any dirt. It really is impressive how many swirls can be created with a few bits of dirt.

As for the polish these days there are a huge range of brands which will do a good job. I would guess the most popular combination is Meguiars 105 and 205. 105 is the compound and 205 is the polish. This combination will allow someone to polish almost any type of paint. It is common for many to switch 105 for the consumer version Ultimate Compound as it can be a bit easier to use and does not dust as much but has slightly less cut than 105. There are very good alternatives from Menzerna, Scholl, Sonax etc. They will all work in slightly different ways, for example, Menzerna products need to be worked until the polish starts to go clear but with Meguiars polishes the level of cut is changed by using different pads and pressure. I use Optimum polishes as they are not fussy at all and are very easy to work with but it is about getting the best out of the products you buy, not who made it.

As for pads, again a vast range of brands out there, you will want a compounding, polishing and finishing pads. This will cover you for nearly all paints. If you budget allows, get at least two of each pad. Moving to a clean pad after one or two panels just makes life easier. When a pad get loaded up with polish and paint, it stops working efficiently and also is poor at dissipating heat which can often cause the pad to fail during use. After each panel or more frequently, clean the pad with an old soft toothbrush or mf cloth.
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