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Mito multiair failure - unit repaired not replaced

39K views 22 replies 14 participants last post by  chemist 
#1 · (Edited)
In the last few weeks my red Mito Multiair 135 bhp turbo, 2010, 42k miles with full Alfa history ( oil changed every 9k miles, last change at 35k miles) showed signs of misfire and white smoke and bad tappety sound from top end plus engine management light on . As I daughter was using it I ignored it until I had a proper look and decided to call RAC who did not have a clue except to recover it to my ace motor technician Nigel at GB Motorservices who is simply one of the very best – a former runner up UK Champion technician of year and ex Ferrari/Bentley master technician.
Although he had not seen a multiair unit before he applied his usual thorough diagnostic skills and determined that the ignition was fine, the solenoids were in perfect working order but no. 2 cylinder was showing no compression The code reader showed a number of different faults. . He suspected the multiair unit had gone. Alfa dealers just replace the multiair unit - £700 for the part plus around 3 hours labour at £300. Nigel took the unit apart and found that a component on no. 2 ( I can’t remember what he called it – see photo ) had come loose from its thread due to a manufacturing fault. Also the tappet on no. 2 had come loose due to a missing locking ring which all the other tappets had. Thus oil had drained from the reservoir for no 2 causing the tappet to not work and the inlet valves to stay closed. He re-assembled the component despite the thread being slightly damaged and sorted out the tappet. On re-assembly the engine was tappety for 10 mins as expected as the oil pressure stabilised but after that ran perfectly. All this for 3 hours labour and £120 , saving me £900!
The learning from this that
1. The multiair unit is repairable and mechanical detachment is the likely root cause of failure.
2. The only bits that cannot be replaced are the electrical solenoids which are difficult to remove or replace.
3. Failed discarded mulitiar unis can act as a source of the mechanical components needed to effect a repair.
4. Oil condition is not a significant factor in the failure but rather poor manufacture causing bits to detach. – my car had only done 7k miles on the oil which is nothing for a petrol engine.
5. As always franchised dealers strategies of replacing rather than repairing is detrimental to the consumer.
6. Find a top technician like I have
 

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#3 ·
Yes , will keep you posted. At least the repair shows that a component coming loose over time from a thread was main cause. Re-assembly and locktight, hopefully will have sorted it . However, now that its been looked at I am not too worried about these multiair units as I know the worst that can happen is buying a new unit at trade price from Mangoletsi and get it fitted for £100 or so.
 
#4 ·
The thread itself breaks down so don't be surprised if the problem returns in a few thousand miles.

I wonder if the unit can be helicoiled?
 
#5 ·
It is not the thread that breaks down but the component becomes progressively loose over time due to it not being tightened securely in manufacture. The thread is some 14 turns in total, the component loosens over the first 10 turns without causing any damage to threads but over the last 4 turns the and rattling/loosening coupled with the oil pressure causes some damage to the outer 4 or so threads. In my case it was re-tightened with locktight over at least 10 turns which according to my technician should be fine - i shall observe.
As to the helicoiling he reckons that this would not be possible here due to the fine nature of the thread and the large diameter involved.
 
#6 ·
Very interesting, thanks for confirming this.

Note though that a number of video's on this and posts on the Italian Alfa forums have shown that the thread can completely break down and cause the cylinder to not be able to screw back in at all.
 
#8 ·
Interesting information. This all confirms my original assertion that, contrary to forum discussions here from 2011 onwards, the condition of the oil is not a primary factor in the failure of these multiair units . It is in fact due to poor initial locktightness of the small cylinder - the thread damage is merely a consequence of the resultant loosening and rattling. This is such a basic manufacturing flaw which should have been easy to get right. As a result of this neglect, consumers are having to fork out over £1000 to get a replacement unit when the individual component availability would have at least allowed the repair of some units.
 
#7 ·
I have a similar issue mate I think? When I rev it it sounds like it's rattling, have had the engine management light on in the past but this was cleared with no problems since however sometimes when I start it on a cold morning it's really lumpy for a few minutes, garage told me the unit is on it's way out and are saying it needs replacing? Reckon a trip to see Nigel is worth it?? Also how do you get the unit on trade price and how much?? Thanks
 
#12 ·
I bought a mito and a month later the multiair unit went on it took them a month to fix because apparently the part they had didn't work (out a scrappies probably) so they had to wait for one from italy so they say LOL luckily I got a year warranty with the car and didn't cost me a penny but was going crazy at them for taking their time had a hyundai i10 as a courtesy car called it the granny mobile mind you my gran could walk faster than the thing HAHA but I feel your pain when it goes not a nice feeling :(
 
#17 ·
As from my point of view, the problem here was a mechanical failure of the unit - which typically occurs with units older than 2012 may be 2011. #

Another thing is the failiure of the electromagnetic valves that provide the inlet valve action. That failure occurs typically after a certain mileage - and is in my opinion caused by engine oil residues building up in the valve holes. This residues are sticky when the engine is cold and could cause locked or at least slowed down valve action.

However, this type of failure is causing fault codes (P1061, P1062, P1063, P1064) that on the other hand cause the lock down of the corresponding cylinders (1 to 4).

Solution? I bought a new multiair unit and replaced the old one. But you can try to clean it from this residues by using cleaner solvent. Maybe this works. I had opened the cover and flushed my old unit but never had refitted it....
 
#18 ·
Hello everyone. I had the same identical problem. Occasional misfire, white smoke from the rear etc. Brought to the nearest garage three weeks ago. He excluded spark plugs and multi air unit. He told me that cylinder 1 looses compression, valves are burnt and piston 1 and 2 have compromised rings. He told me that either he needs to send to restore engine or to buy a second hand engine. Total expense £2,200 pounds including the labour he did till now.
My car is a 2010 one and it's probably worth 2,5-3k. Don't know what to do...it's all in parts now. I cannot really afford a new car...
Help me!
 
#19 ·
Just because you have the same symptoms doesn't mean you have the same problems. It would need properly looking at and assessing. Have you had the engine stripped? Otherwise how does you mechanic know that you have valve damage or ring damage?
 
#20 ·
Was in a similar position nearly 2 years / 30k ago.

New valves and Multiair unit didn't turn out well was getting a failure code on the new unit. Was thought the unit may have been faulty so was returned.

Saw a engine for sale from a insurance write off, engine looked low miles and matched the stated ages.

Engine replacement went well although a similar price due to the labour and parts for the previous failed fix.

So all is well now, I change the oil every 9k and it runs well. I think I was lucky as a replacement used engine can be a big risk and have it own problems. But less complicated then fixing a modern engine.

How much do you owe if walked away now? How good is your mechanic? What if still a problem with repaired engine? Will he source and standby the new engine?

I decided not to walk away and sell by car broken as thought it wasn't easy to find another car for not much money that wouldn't have its own problems.

Could you get a lesser car for £2k from a trusted seller or maybe with a dealer warranty?

I feel your pain :(
 
#23 ·
Nelo,
the only thing I can say is that I didn't replace the oil often...really every 2 years. But the engine didn't consume any oil...He said to strip off the engine and do the tests I owe 200-250 pounds.
He has got only good reviews and seems very experienced, even if he chats you in letting you believe everything he says. But I think he is fundamentally genuine.
Need to ask about a sort of warranty. I see your rationale.

Pud:
He told me he found an engine with 59k miles (3k more than mine) for £1,000. With labour to replace it etc will be £2,2-2,4k.
Shall I risk it?

I'd really like to carry on with this car for another 2-3 years really (until the new Tonale arrives :) - but need to wait for a second hand one probably).
 
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