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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonlane View Post
Check that the top mount you received is a LH one marked with a letter S !!!!!
Mine arrived Friday and even though the part number marked in tipex states its LH one its a RH one marked with a D

GUTTED !!!
Not Philips fault at Alfa shop, it was marked up with the correct part number, someone must have mislabeled it.
I hope you received the correct one as their are NO more to found .
Yours may not be the only one.

I have a 'supposed' LH mount in stock, purchased from the dealer a while back, with the OE labels clearly stating the part number 60629998, but it has the letter "D" stamped on the top part of the metal bracket. So that can go back to the dealer for a refund then

I suspect there may be a small batch marked up incorrectly. Very annoying.
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I might have a used one if you're stuck.
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I've just spoken to Karl at Alfashop and he has had several customers phoning today about this specific problem. So I suspect that a batch of these LH mounts have been labelled incorrectly before export.

Of course this may imply that some mounts out there may be labelled as RH items when they are LH mounts. Might be worth checking any available stock with the dealers to see if any RH mounts have the "S" stamped on the top!

Last edited by Spider95; 04-04-16 at 18:11.
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Oh bugger sorry to hear that. I checked it on arrival and it is correct. Thanks for the heads up, sorry about your rotten luck mate.

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Think I have been a very lucky boy as I managed to track down a nearside strut top mount at Mangoletsi in Cheshire. Picked it up yesterday having had problems finding one elsewhere as had others, and it is the correct one fortunately. My local dealer in Nottingham was able to see stock holdings across Europe at main dealers. Not guaranteed to be accurate but it at least narrows down the numbers. Two were showing in the UK. Tried a dealer in Canterbury first, no luck, then hit gold (literally) at Mangoletsi. Having read this I now don't mind having paid £129.62 for the privilege. Probably the last one in the UK? He offered to give me a few European dealers showing stock if I had no luck so if anyone is feeling adventurous a Google translated email to Poland might do the trick if they will post it to you.
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Originally Posted by v6coop View Post
Think I have been a very lucky boy as I managed to track down a nearside strut top mount at Mangoletsi in Cheshire. Picked it up yesterday having had problems finding one elsewhere as had others, and it is the correct one fortunately. My local dealer in Nottingham was able to see stock holdings across Europe at main dealers. Not guaranteed to be accurate but it at least narrows down the numbers. Two were showing in the UK. Tried a dealer in Canterbury first, no luck, then hit gold (literally) at Mangoletsi. Having read this I now don't mind having paid £129.62 for the privilege. Probably the last one in the UK? He offered to give me a few European dealers showing stock if I had no luck so if anyone is feeling adventurous a Google translated email to Poland might do the trick if they will post it to you.
The pan-UK and European 'stock holding' facility held by the dealers seems to be hit and miss. My dealer was only showing one available at Northgate Canterbury but after phoning them I was told they had sold that one last year. They also quoted a price of £146 if they had one in stock! So as you say that one purchased from Mangoletsi is probably the last one in the UK.

Purchasing from a dealer in continental Europe is probably the last resort, but how you manage to do that is something else.

Last edited by Spider95; 07-05-16 at 18:53.
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I assumed that the nearside took more knocks in potholes and drains in the UK but as most GTVs manufactured were left-hand drive this doesn't make sense. I suspect Italy's roads see little salt and therefore the suspension doesn't corrode like mine at least. Pretty horrified at how bad it is but I will be cleaning up and keeping the old strut mounts now.
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I took mine apart just to replace the torn strut gaiter. I used a generic strut gaiter kit that also included the bumpstop. A local shop had them in stock, cheap - I needed the largest size to fit over the relatively large-diameter strut spindle. For a $12 part (the strut boot), it turned out to be quite a lot of work but I hope it will extend the life of the struts.

Note that to get the top mount back on, I found it easiest to use four spring compressors and compress to the extent shown in the photo below. Two compressors are fitted around the spring perch and the spring, compressing the spring onto the strut. The other two are fitted across the spring itself. I found this much more effective and safer than trying to 'grab' more coils of the spring with each compressor and having the end claws get stuck or worse, slide around.

I guess the lucky thing about being on this side of the world is not having any rust on the strut or the spring. I do recommend replacing the plastic tubing at the bottom end of the spring, as it wears through.

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Last edited by alexGS; 07-04-16 at 14:56.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spider95 View Post
I've just spoken to Karl at Alfashop and he has had several customers phoning today about this specific problem. So I suspect that a batch of these LH mounts have been labelled incorrectly before export.
I bought a pair of mounts last year and the dealer (not Alfashop) mentioned the suppliers had been sending out RHS in place of LHS, the suspicion being it was deliberate.
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Thanks for the advice Alex. I hadn't realised compressing the spring was going to be so difficult though I might have access to a lever type spring compressor which could be a lot easier. How old are the strut and spring in the photo? They look like new! Hadn't realised the plastic tubing should be there. Long gone on mine I suspect. What does it do, just stop the spring wearing the strut?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v6coop View Post
Thanks for the advice Alex. I hadn't realised compressing the spring was going to be so difficult though I might have access to a lever type spring compressor which could be a lot easier.
You're probably right, but yes - relative to other McPherson struts, the GTV's struts are difficult to disassemble/reassemble in my experience, because of three factors:

1. The spring is pre-loaded to a significant extent, being compressed to about two-thirds its length even when the strut is fully extended. I remember this being a problem for 164 struts too - the spring is simply too long when released, so most spring compressors can't unwind far enough if you have compressed three or four coils (turns). I suppose this isn't a problem if you're happy to leave the spring compressed after taking it off the strut, but I prefer to release it fully if it needs de-rusting or painting.

2. Related to the above, the spring does not have many coils (only five in total?), so there is a big difference between compressing two coils and three coils. The coil at each end will extend significantly even if you have fully compressed the three coils in between, which is why I recommend clamping the spring onto the strut (avoids a nasty surprise when both end coils break free as you undo the spindle top nut... you'd be surprised how far a strut can be propelled across a concrete floor, especially if there's a freshly-painted wheel nearby)

3. The spring has an offset and angled mounting, which makes it difficult to get the top mount on correctly and wind the nut on without the spindle jamming in the mount. The rubber spring seat tends to pop out of place just as the spring is being uncompressed.

Once you know to look out for these things, you'll probably find it quite easy

Quote:
How old are the strut and spring in the photo? They look like new!
Fifteen years old and only needed a quick scrub with soapy water - I'm very happy (and lucky!) with this car's condition It's ex-Japan. I think they must drive at 40km/h on billiard-table smooth ribbons of clean concrete... Well that's the picture I have in my head, anyway. Both rear bump stops broke off within a couple of weeks after I bought the car!

Quote:
Hadn't realised the plastic tubing should be there. Long gone on mine I suspect. What does it do, just stop the spring wearing the strut?
It helps to prevent squeaks and creaks, especially when turning the steering at low speeds. I noticed quite a benefit when I replaced it - suspension became quieter. The problem is that when it wears through, usually between the coils when they touch, it allows water in through the worn slot - and that, of course, is a disaster because the remaining tubing then holds the water against the spring.

I think it was my Gtv rear springs that were starting to rust quite badly (I had them out when I replaced the bump stops), probably because the two plastic-covered coils are touching the coil in between even in the rest position, as you can see in the photo below. Hmmm, some rust starting on the upright/hub carrier and on the rear arm, I'd better get onto that!

-Alex
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Last edited by alexGS; 07-04-16 at 15:23.
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I think the LH and RH top mounts are identical....

Was replacing my suspension the other week and started to worry after seeing this thread, as I knew my RH mount needed doing (new one purchased no problem and fitted) and was hoping to do the LH one, but was relieved that the bearing felt very fresh so it went back in. Anyhow... whilst I had the LH one out, I still had the old RH one kicking about so I inspected them side by side – I think the attached pictures speak for themselves.

As far as I can tell (and one was marked D and the other S, and I believe these are the original factory build parts for the car) they are identical!! I could not spot a difference anywhere. This may explain why one side has been discontinued and the other not – because someone somewhere (supplier?) knows they are the same. Might also explain why they were going out 'mislabelled' - perhaps they should just remove the D / S stamping off of the top....

Why they were ever marked left and right is a mystery, unless it was to identify the legs as fully built up units (although the only thing that is ‘sided’ about the built up leg is a bracket that holds the ABS wire etc – but this is easily swapped from one side to the other).

I must stress that I didn't actually try to fit it, but I would certainly not hesitate in ordering up a 'RH' one to fit when the LH one does go. Maybe someone else out there wants to try in the meantime...
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You can see in the side on image above, even the cut outs in the spring seats are identical in position. The bearings and the holes through them are directly vertical so no worry about a difference in angle, and you can see from the imprint that has been left that the spring sits the same way around in the set. just obviously when fitted in situ they are rotated so they face the other way around.
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I thought the same thing but I think when bolted in they are at slightly different angles tho I didn't try them to check.
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That is good news, many will be relieved that actually they are not handed. How come no-one has not noticed this before?
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Unfortunately I don't think this is correct.. the "plate" part with the mounting holes is not symmetrical when you look closely.
The mounting hole on one side of the plate is about 5mm further away from the top of the strut than the other side.

You might be able to mount it on the other side, but the strut will not be in the right place.
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Definitely not the same

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It is possible to mount S to D and vice-versa, but the Castor angle will be on the opposite of the correct.
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Would be interesting if someone gets time / opportunity to actually try it and let us know the result - even just quickly swapping the legs left to right to look-see.

I can see what you mean about the picture, but the bolt holes did look equal from the centre when I was examining them. In fact, any of us can measure this with the legs still fitted on the car from under the bonnet - will take a ruler to it later.

As for castor angle, the hole in the bearing is directly vertical when they are on a flat surface, so any element of castor looks to me like it would be dealt by either a) the inner wing angle where the plate is bolted and b) any degree of off-set built into the strut / shock absorber design.

As for just saying 'definitely not the same' this isn't really helpful - can you expand on exactly why, from experience, with pictures if possible, to enlighten us all??

If anyone has tried this or has the opportunity to try it please let us know - I wish I hadn't already done the one side as if id had both off together I would definitely given it a go.

I'm just trying to help find a solution on this for everyone, and I'm very happy for someone to prove me wrong, but I've all too often heard that something doesn't work or wont fit from people who should know better when they haven't actually tried it (used to be my job many years ago), only to find that it does....

I hope we do come up with a solution to this one way or another.

I'm going to try disassembling the old strut mount next to see if the bearing can be replaced....
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheKevlarKid View Post
Would be interesting if someone gets time / opportunity to actually try it and let us know the result - even just quickly swapping the legs left to right to look-see.

I can see what you mean about the picture, but the bolt holes did look equal from the centre when I was examining them. In fact, any of us can measure this with the legs still fitted on the car from under the bonnet - will take a ruler to it later.

As for castor angle, the hole in the bearing is directly vertical when they are on a flat surface, so any element of castor looks to me like it would be dealt by either a) the inner wing angle where the plate is bolted and b) any degree of off-set built into the strut / shock absorber design.

As for just saying 'definitely not the same' this isn't really helpful - can you expand on exactly why, from experience, with pictures if possible, to enlighten us all??

If anyone has tried this or has the opportunity to try it please let us know - I wish I hadn't already done the one side as if id had both off together I would definitely given it a go.

I'm just trying to help find a solution on this for everyone, and I'm very happy for someone to prove me wrong, but I've all too often heard that something doesn't work or wont fit from people who should know better when they haven't actually tried it (used to be my job many years ago), only to find that it does....

I hope we do come up with a solution to this one way or another.

I'm going to try disassembling the old strut mount next to see if the bearing can be replaced....
Thank you to those of you working hard to make sense of this for the rest of us.

If one side is not available any more and both sides are different, then I wonder what Alfa mechanics are replacing the worn mounts with. They may have stock, but this will only last for so long. Some may have already depleted their stock as this thread was started five months ago.
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Kavlarkid did you put the two sides together to see if they matched. I mean one on top of the other, that would be the easiest way to see if they are the same as then the holes, lugs, shape and center would line up perfectly?
It is getting ridiculous that several parts are no longer available, when you consider how many 916's are left and still being used on a regular basis. It will eventually be the demise of our models. At this rate sooner than we think.
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The section of the plate that has either the "D" or the "S" stamped on top is slightly larger than the opposite side. This makes them either left or right-sided.

The distance from the centre of the strut (the big centre bolt where the top of the shock is located) to the smaller mounting bolt, is therefore larger on the side with the S/D stamp, by about 5mm, from measuring with a ruler.

Obviously, this means if you change over the mounts, the shock will be out of position and caster will be wrong.

Kinda hard to see in a photo, but is fairly obvious in post #40. The mount over on the left has the longer section at the top of the photo.

So sadly I'm afraid they are indeed different. If they were the same I'd have fitted two new ones myself!
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following my comments on the other thread:
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-...placement.html (Top mount bearing replacement)
Here are pics of top mounts and bearing after I split the D (RHS) one
Centering the top plate of D on S, they do not match - There is a 10mm difference
There is no way IMHO to replace bearing
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File Type: jpg D and S.jpg (79.7 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg D on top of S.jpg (66.1 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg Top mount bearing.jpg (48.6 KB, 23 views)
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