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Cambelt - Which tools are actually necessary?

So I'm planning on changing the cambelt on my 2002 TS in the next few weeks. Already have the correct cam locks and the full kit, just need to acquire the remaining tools which is where my issue lies. Obviously I am planning on getting the TDC holder and gauge and some cam lock bolts from Totally Alfa, but they also sell a whole bunch of other tools such as tools for the inlet and exhaust pulleys and the belt tensioners (balance and timing).

I am pretty sure I will also pick up the belt tensioner tools but are the inlet and exhaust pulley tools really that important? Searching the forums here I haven't really ever seen them mentioned and as they are about 30 quid collectively I would like to save some coin if they aren't essential. So would you recommend buying the exhaust and inlet pulley tools? Or just stick with the cam locks + bolts, TDC holder, DTI gauge, and the tensioner tools and save myself about 45 pounds (additional freight charges on top of purchase price).

Thanks for the help,

2000 Alfa 156 Sportwagon 2.0 TS CF3

2002 Alfa GTV 2.0 TS CF3
1983 Porsche 944
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This is the specials I have in my kit:

From top-left:
Indicator clock with extension (home made from an old spark plug)
Cam locks with longer M7 screws (Volvo P/N VO 982781)
Ribe bits
Home made tool for turning the crank (attach on belt pulley)
Home made special tool for the auxillary belt tensioner
clamps to hold the new belt on the pulleys while your working.

And all the standard tools of course.
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TDC. Dial gauge and adapter plus cam locks are the absolutely necessary tools special to this work. Ribe bits can be used elsewhere on the car. The tensioner keys are useful but broad blade screwdrivers may be used instead to get the correct tension. Of the camshaft pulley tools I have only the inlet has been used, the exhaust has not had to be used so far and that has been helpful as the cam positioning sensor is easily damaged if it is used clumsily! A 15mm offset ring spanner for the aux belt tensioner and idler is needed. Follow the guides carefully. To turn the engine I put a strap clamp on the crankshaft pulley, I have seen it where someone has tried to do the same function by putting just the Ribe bolts back in without the pulley and using a lever to turn the engine: that is fraught with problems as if they are screwed in too far they puncture the oil pump housing.

I made templates for the various covers etc so that as a screw or bolt is taken off it is put through a hole in the corresponding position on the template, this helps especially when replacing the cam belt cover as the bolts are of differing lengths. When putting the the cam box cover gasket back in place use a smear of RTV sealant in the corners where it goes over the camshaft clamps on the LHS.
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pretty much as the guys above have said, although I do have the pulley spanner in my set and find it useful for
* rotating the cam to get the camlocks on in justy the right place
* providing a counter force when undoing the exhaust pulley bolt
* rotating the exhaust and input pulley to get all the slack over toward the tensioner

I am sure that a capable person could improvise, its only a flat piece of metal with a couple of bolts through it, but it was easier just to buy one TBH.
Although the cam tensioner is not stricly necessary, as said a screwdriver against a drill bit works well, I find the balance belt tensioner most usefull because of its awkward position.

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I bought all the tools on the basis that I could buy all the kit and still save money on paying someone to do it. You can definitely live without the tensioner tools, I used a pin and a screwdriver to tension and infact the main cambelt tool I purchased was too small so did it that way, which reminds me I had agreement to send it back and swap it out. The inlet and exhaust tools again useful but a homemade tool would be easy to fab. The locks are obviously pretty essential, the DTI gauge very useful.
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Thoroughly recommend Totally Alfa, the tools are great.
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Thanks guys, pretty much seems as I thought so I just decided to buy all the tools and be done with it. Wasn't cheap though at 158 quid!
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Cambelt Tools and Tips

Two weeks ago I bought my first Alfa, a 1997 Spider, 2.0L TS. Mileage at purchase was 101K with the last record of a cam belt change at 54K in 2004, so definitely due for renewal! I bought the car as a project and decided to do the work myself and having now finished thought I would share my experience. While the engine was it bits I also changed the water pump and variator.

In the dim distant past I used to service my own cars and have rebuilt a couple of old British bikes but Iíve never changed a cam belt before or done so much work on a modern, (to me anyway!), engine.

Essential tools for the job include:
1) A good set of hex and ribe bits (£10 from ebay)
2) Cam locking blocks and long bolts
3) Cam and balance belt adjusting tools (came with my cam locking blocks from ebay for £20)
4) 10mm offset ring spanner for balance belt tensioner
5) 15mm offset ring spanner for auxiliary belt idler
6) Variator removal tool
7) Tube of locktite
8) Tube of automotive silicone
9) Most helpful online guide:

You will see there is no dial gauge for finding TDC. I thought about getting one but decided that mechanics have been finding TDC for over a century on petrol engines with nothing more than a stick! It worked for me.

1) The auxiliary belt idler can only be removed with a 15mm offset ring spanner as there is not enough room to get a socket in the gap between the idler and the inner wing. To get the spanner to fit I had to grind the shoulder off so that the ring could go over the bolt. I also found that wedging the ring onto the bolt with a screwdriver handle that filled the gap between the idler and inner wing stopped the spanner jumping when first loosening the bolt and for final tightening.
2) I could not remove the variator with the inlet camshaft in situ, it just would not budge. In the end I removed the camshaft and held the far end in a large vice, supported the variator end on wooden blocks and attempted to remove the variator with a bar and hammer. Despite having a large vice I just could not hold the round end tight enough to stop it turning so in the end had to grind two flats on the end of the camshaft so that the vice could hold it securely. Even then the variator was very hard to remove and took a lot of flogging. If I replace a variator again then it will be a camshaft out job.
3) The crank pulley was a swine to remove. Eventually I put a hooked lever behind the pulley and used the engine mount to pull against and the pulley popped off.
4) All the instructions say set the tension of the two belts with the tensioning tools but none explain how to use them! The cambelt tool has an offset pin that goes into a hole in the block by the tensioner. Once in the hole the tool acts as a cam to move the tensioner. I also found that tightening the tensioner nut increased the tension on the belt so after a bit of trial and error I set the tensioning pointer slightly loose and when the nut was tightened the pointer was spot on. The balance belt tool works in the same way but has an offset hole that fits over a dowel near the tensioner.

In all I spent 8 hours doing all the work including 2 hours alone on the variator, (an hour in situ and an hour to remove the cam and then refit with the new part). Probably spent as much time trying to undo stuck, stubborn or awkward fixings as I did on the actual job.
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Thanks for the advice York

That guide is actually the one I am planning on using and have read through a few times already. Going to use it alongside the workshop manual and the documentation on Alfa Workshop. Between them I shouldn't have too many issues outside some stubborn bolts/screws not wanting to budge.
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Wish I had that guide when I did mine!
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