Re: Wishbones - Tomorrows the big day (take 2)
Lets not get tapered ball joints mixed up with this type with the clamp bolt. People will get very hot and bothered and do some damage.
I have a 'ball joint splitter' which I hardly ever use. It just ruins boots if you're lucky, and if you're unlucky there won't be access enough to use it! If there's a pinch bolt or clamb bolt, the shank may have a groove around it which the pinch bolt locates in, so the bolt has to be out before the thing will come off. Memory does not quite serve as to whether the Alfa ones are like this. When the pinch-bolt is out, it shouldn't be too difficult to uncouple the bottom ball joint from the strut but rust and dirt can make them tight. Plenty of releasing oil in the 'slot' of the clamp helps, then rest the strut on something (large block of wood), possibly using the bottom of the brake disc. You then have something to react against when you whack the lower arm down out of the clamp. It helps a lot if you can get the suspension in a position where the arm and the strut are at right angles, otherwise the ball joint can't drop out without the strut trying to move laterally.
The tapered sort (track rod ends usually) are a different matter. I've long since given up any attempts at knocking the shank of the ball joint out, even leaving the nut on, it always damages them. You need to smack the boss with the tapered seat in it at right angles. The idea is that you squeeze the tapered shank out of its tapered hole by elastically (hopefully) deforming the seat. If possible get a large weight (mallet head for instance) one side of the boss and strike it on the opposite side. The 'hole' then tries to go oval and ejects the ball joint.
Use the ball joint splitter as a doorstop.
Doesn't say that in the manual
Last edited by Wrenched; 30-07-07 at 15:54.