thanks for the replies guys.
Originally Posted by sraouf
There is no extra bolt, just the two 10mm nuts attached to a thread holding the two bench brackets ("hook things"). Lift both of the brackets over the thread (requires a bit of persuasion) and then the entire bench (one piece) lifts straight out
as the nuts are off at the centre below each seat then it seems that where i managed to get a little bit of forward movement of the hook part, i just need to use various tools as levers to get them over the threads... must just be a case of brute force rather than persuasion!
Originally Posted by superjimbo
I presume the speakers don't come straight out from the top then? That's a pain as I was thinking of changing mine. What speakers have you gone for?
i've gone for earthquake sws-6.5x - 6.5" free-air subs that should just drop in the same holes for an oem look. the idea being to provide bass from the back whilst leaving the fronts to provide the mid and tweeters via crossover.
i managed to push one of the oem rear speakers out from the bottom but have the earthquakes mounted to 18mm mdf (bought, but the holes were in the wrong places?!? so re-drilled) and could not get them to drop-in as they are currently.
the mdf mounts are also of a bigger diameter in total so i think they will/are catching on lip between the threads and the top of the holes. i'm quite tall and not skinny so i found it a real pain to try and do in-situ. as such i want to get the shelf out to do this so i can see what i'm doing.
it's probably the case that i'll have to find some way of sanding the mounts so that the external diameter is the same as the speakers. i could just cut-out the lip part of the shelf mould as it's all hidden away but am really reluctant to cut-up my cup, logical or otherwise.
the earthquakes are actually less deep than the oem full-range speakers though!!
Originally Posted by pkr
The standard speakers are quite shallow. The speakers I have in have a depth of 64mm so I fitted a spacer over the mounting bolts on which the speaker sits. This allows you to keep the safety cage on the battery side.
The yellow connectors are available on ebay to interface between the standard wiring and the replacement speakers. At just £1.79 a pair including postage it's silly not to!
as above, as i waffled-on from superjimbo's speaker type query
they should be straight-fit drop-in. however the mounts (and rear screen!) are being a pain.
re the yellow connectors the plan would be to un-clip the yellow bit and clip each wire onto the relevant terminal of the new speakers. however, due to these being subs and rms rating (100w) even with pioneer active sub control i thought they would just end-up clipping. as such there is an amp to go in and the speakers are to be connected from that so the exiting wires can just hang loose in the yellow clips.
just the subs in the oem holes so no tweeters going in at the back. the non sub bass sound stage is front only.
however, joined-up to the squadra916 site so saw your posts there, nice work. the tweeters are nicely positioned and have the oem grilles. the hidden sub positioning is also very nice. mine is a phase 2 though and have decided to go the route as above, for better or worse.
for removing the nuts from the rear speakers i bought a 'tamiya' spanner (read about in some post here). for anyone with the intention to just drop in new 6.5s i would certainly recommend spending a couple of quid on one, made that part very easy - especially for the nearest nuts that you can't see.
part of the reason for just taking the shelf out was because i found some dynamat in the garage from a yesteryear project. so i thought i'd reinforce the shelf to avoid vibrations. however, i guess the shelves differ a bit in design between phases (at least) as there is foam stuff at the bottom of mine and fibreglass(?) at the bottom of the speaker holes before this foam. again, did't want to rip-up/cut parts so not sure about this now. currently of the opinion to get the speakers in and see what it's like and if not acceptable then i guess i'll have either put-up with it or mangle it from oem state the achieve the desired effect.
either way at the moment it looks like i'll have to invest in a belt sander (or such) or elbow grease to get the outer diameter of the mdf mounts flush with the sub/speaker diameter, or start cutting. what is in my mind is not wanting to 'ruin' a cup (i.e. be able to return to oem without buying parts, if i wish to do so for some reason).