Planning the next
AO Silver Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Wiring : This is split between phase 1 cars and phase 2/3 cars. Although the connectors on the A pillar will, I think, fit, they are wired completely differently. Everything else inside the doors is OK though, so if your replacement doors are different, you can just swap over the wiring.
Check strap : This also changed between Phase 1 and phase 2/3. The size of the hole through which the strap passes changed in size.
Lock Barrels : Can be fiddly to get at, but will swap over.
Mechanical issues : You will probably have to realign the door to the hole. You undo the 6 bolts ( 3 bolts per hinge ) that fasten the hinge to the car body and that will allow you to move the door up/down, backwards/forwards, and rotate the door longitudinally in the hole. The lock catch on the 'B' pillar adjusts to the door and is also used to ensure the door shuts flush with the rear wing. The final type of adjustment consists of spacers between the hinges and the car body. This moves the front of the door in/out to get a good seal. By varying the spacers ( top and bottom hinges ) it also allows the door to rotate laterally - this is very important to getting the window to seal properly. Once the door fits properly, you then have to adjust the bonnet ( bonnet hinge is mounted to the top door hinge ). Finally you adjust the front wing ( with spacers ) to ensure it fits well with the door and bonnet.
Once the door is adjusted, you then move on to the pain of adjusting the window.
The full procedure for adjusting the doors and windows is in the workshop manual Volume 2, section 70 and starts on page 1.
Incidentally, the corrosion on the mirrors is very easy to fix. As they are cast aluminium, the corrosion looks a lot worse than it is. Remove the mirrors, use sandpaper to clean off the corrosion and then repaint.