Currently doing the clutch on my 96 2.0 TS, probably similar to your car, if so and like me you're doing it on your back, be warned it's the worst box I've ever done on any car in near 50 years of motor engineering, even a 2.0 16V Espace is a piece of **** compared to these, so give yourself plenty of time!
When I checked the kit for my car, one type used a concentric release bearing, the other type a 'traditional' ball race type pushed by a fork in the bellhousing, the plain one will have an external slave cylinder on top of the box (as on my car), the concentric type AFAIK is a hydraulic 'all in one' type and internal!
Best bet is to give the supplier the reg no of your car and they should sort it, but if you've got a slave cylinder on top, my guess is it'll be a 'traditional' release bearing!
Sort out some boxes to put all the nuts and bolts in and keep separated, ie: in an order such that you'll remember where they came from, (bell housing, suspension, manifolding etc) there's more than you'll believe, I just toss 'em all into a big pile in a box, but I've been doing these jobs a long time now!
I left the subframe in place and fiddled the engine around on a trolley jack to shuffle the box out, but be aware the back end of the box is very tight onto the subframe but do-able, also take off the rear gearbox mountings from both the box and chassis leg to give yourself some room to manoeuvre!
If you do decide to take off the crossmember, be prepared for bolts shearing off, I removed one of the pans to get the RH suspension arm off for renewal and two sheared, so a drill and tap job, ditto one of the suspension leg to hub securing bolts!!
Take off the intake manifold, it makes removing the starter motor much easier, and helps cast a bit of extra light down the back of the motor!
Make sure you remove the intermediate shaft from the RH driveshaft Before you try hauling the box out, otherwise you'll struggle and maybe break or bend something, at least the diff seal!
The intermediate shaft slips into the gearbox on splines, with the other end bolted to the inner CV of the RH outer shaft, the intermediate shaft bearing is held in place by 3x bolts through a flange on the alloy alternator bracket, the bearing if anything like mine, will not want to come out of the housing, so tap tapered drifts between the retaining flange and alloy bracket to help nudge the bearing free, but avoid the temptation of whacking the drive flange itself with a hammer to knock it out, otherwise you may stuff the alloy bracket and will certainly stuff the bearing, once the bearing moves, it should lever out ok!
Jim gave good advice about the stud, and he's right about that bearing, it's what was in my car, it hadn't fallen apart but had gone rusty where water had lain in the well where it sits on the tubular guide, which resulted in a lunched bearing and the only reason for it needing the clutch!
I usually eyeball the clutch alignment on these transverse engine type clutches even though I've an alignment kit, mainly because the hole in the crank is bigger than any adaptors in my universal Sykes Pickavant kit and I'm too lazy to knock one up!
If you offer up the cover and plate and bolt it fingertight to the flywheel, you can feel around the edge of the pressure plate and clutch disc and get them lined up as close as any alignment tool would, if you lay the clutch plate onto the pressure plate and check around the edge you'll get the idea!
Getting ahead a tad, when you come to put the exhaust front pipe and Cat back on, only use silicone sealer on the joints, Not firegum or similar goop, otherwise you risk stuffing the Cat!
Gone on a bit here, but hope there's some handy tips in there!