You don't need the heater on at full blast.. the fans running doesn't do anything for the process. You only need the heater dial turned to "Max" so that the heater valve (a simple sliding hatch that blanks the hot water inlet to the heater) is open, so that coolant can move through the matrix freely, pushing any air out.
To bleed the rad'.. Turn the heater dial to Max. Pour coolant sloooooowly into the header tank until the level reaches "Max".
If the radiatore has a bleed valve on it (usually a screw in the top left or right corner) then unscrew it progressively until air comes out. When coolant starts coming out, tighten it up. (Don't remove it completely otherwise it's tricky to insert it and tighten it up while coolant is piissing out all over the place...
Top up the header to Max.. and that's that.
After you run around for a few miles and the beast has cooled down again, the level may have dropped a little (mid-way between marks maybe) but in theory, once you've reached "that's that" you don't need to do anything else.
Since it's your motor however,
if I was you I would let the engine idle while I checked that the hoses were getting hot (tells you there's coolant in there and that it's being circulated). Just check that the radiator gets hot all tyhe way to the top (feel the fins but don't burn yourself and make sure you don't lose any fingers if the fan comes on).
On the other hand, the fans coming on is also a good sign (that they work at least.. ) although these are controlled by a sensor near the 'stat and if you have only air in the radiatore (it will feel much cooler at the tope than at the bottom) then the fans won't actually be cooling anything except your trapped air.
Massage the hoses to help everything along... but bleeding is simples.. otherwise there would be 1000 people at the factory bleeding cooling systems as cars come off the ramp. There aren't.. they just top the beast up with coolant and Roberto is your mother's brother.