You have three main areas to check -
1) Power supply. Find and check those fuses!
2) Continuity. Are the wires from the motor conducting along their full length
3) The control unit ( N82 ).
First, let's clear any confusion. Forget all about the N38. It was only fitted to pre May 1997 cars and was more than a little lacking in sophistication!
You have the N82 unit and it controls both windows. That box you're trying to extract in your photographs is the N82.
The first thing you need to do is find the two fuses and check them. They should be 25A fuses and the fuse itself will be white/clear. The manual says the fuse holder is yellow.
Whilst in the area, check fuses F15 & F16 in the main fuse box. They'll almost certainly be OK as you don't report any other equipment malfunctioning but it's best to check anyway as you don't know if someone hasn't really messed the electrics about ( more on this later! )
Ideally, you should now check connector A of N82 ( the larger of the two white connectors ) pin 15 & pin 16 for 12v. This will establish if 12v from the two fuses is getting to the control unit. If you don't have a multimeter, use a small 12v bulb e.g. from a puddle light or the interior light, disconnect
connector A, connect pin 15 to one side of the bulb and the other side of the bulb to earth. If all ok, the bulb will light. Repeat for pin 16.
This stuff is a lot easier with a multimeter by the way!
So, assuming you have 12v on pins 15 & 16, you now need to check continuity from N82 to the motor.
Disconnect connector A from N82 and unplug the connector from the window motor. You now need to rig up a continuity test to test the Purple/Yellow wire from connector A pin 8 to the motor connector in the door. If you don't have a multimeter, use a bulb :
connect the purple/yellow wire at the motor connector to a good earth. Connect one side of a bulb to +12v and the other side of the bulb to the purple/yellow wire at connector A pin 8. The bulb will light if you have continuity. Repeat for the White/Green wire ( it could be Green/White, there is an error in the manual ) ( pin 9 of connector A ).
If you have continuity on both wires and you have 12v from the fuses at N82, connector A, it points to a problem with N82.
Which brings me to your photographs and description. N82 should be held on with two bolts, not one and it should come out fairly easily if it's in the right place. The right place is bolted to two bits of metal hanging down from the steel crossmember behind the glovebox, above and slightly to the left ( left hand drive ) of the the heater fan. Now, in your photograph, it looks like its on the driver's side. That black metal bar looks like the steering column support bar. This means someone has been messing about big time.
Have a look at this photo -
Dashboard removed | Photobucket
You'll see the big grey lump of metal running across the car ( it may not be grey in your car ). Above the passenger footwell is the heater fan ( round black bit of plastic ) and in the centre is the heater unit. N82 should be attached to the grey bar between the fan and heater unit ( from where all those wires are hanging down into the passenger footwell ).
My suspicion is that you have a wiring fault dating from the time that someone decided to put the N82 device in the wrong place. I've no idea how they managed that as the wires are not long enough to go from the correct place to where your N82 is. And that may be the explanation for the passenger window not working.