There has been quite a lot of delays on and off with my Malfa project.
Rain….rain…some rain then some more rain!
But it is taking shape.
I have been endeavouring to rebuild most of an engine [with the block in] with very little experience and almost solely the use of the knowledge of all the forums on this website.
So you will not find too many ‘how to’ guides on engine stuff as I am a novice. But I would like to share where I have got my info from and what I found useful and also what problems I found. I have found it quite daunting reading some of the material as I have had to familiarise myself with all the terms and googlize all the jargon so I will try to over explain the stuff that’s hard for the novice and simple to the experts [experts please correct me when I need it].
Work done so far:
Disassembly of, covers, throttle body, pipes, injectors, coil packs, sparkplugs.
I found water in 2 of the spark plug wells which could mean tuning problems to come. I hope the coil packs are ok but I will start with replacing the spark plugs. The previous owner didn’t have the bonnet on which could explain it?
I purchased the necessary 41mm socket for the main crank to tun the engine by hand, removed the inner wheel cover to access and ran a compression test on each of the cylinders. I purchased a compression tester from an auto shop that has a hose to go into the spark plug deep recesses that are on the V6.
The front 3 were fine but all 3 rear cyl failed.
So…off with the rear head!
I knew there would defiantly be no chance of getting the timing right after removing the sprockets [cogs] and cams with out the cam locks so I ordered them from totallyalfa.com. They where the cheapest ones I found.
V6 Camblocks - 2.5 & 3.0 24V Petrol Engines (1 825 040 000) :: TotallyAlfa
Don’t forget to get the TDC [top dead centre] gauge and the gauge holder to make life a lot easier as the sparkplug wells are very deep for a standard TDC from an auto parts shop. [this measures the position of the piston in relation to the cam positions to get correct timing if you didn’t know already]
I found these two rebuild threads particularly informative.
Alfa Romeo forum: V6 head rebuild guide (Euro 3)
I took a lot of photos to refer to when I reassembled. I bagged all the bolts and named them etc. Also i stuffed paper towel into pipes so not to loose nuts or washers in any working parts.
Sprocket removal: crow bar pry down the side…. easier then proper tools I was told.
And if you can get a ‘geared’ 19mm spanner for the bolts, this will make life a lot easier and be useful for cam belt changes in the future as there is very little room to move I there.
Coolant cup removal: on the left side of the engine the coolant system enters the two heads via a coolant cup that is cast to fit onto both heads simultaneously. I found this difficult to remove. But it is simple when you know. There are 2 bolts holding it on but the rubber O ring seals prevent it from easily being pulled off.
20130810_161628_zps04ed4978.jpg Photo by runtrecords | Photobucket
Gently pry it with crow bar or large flat head screw driver and it will slide off.
20130811_123022_zpse9283e66.jpg Photo by runtrecords | Photobucket
When I removed the head I found that the gasket had blown and all 3 pistons had slight crescent shaped scuffs on from the exhaust valves [the 2 smaller of the 4valves per cyl].
20130814_145747_zpsf0dcec51.jpg Photo by runtrecords | Photobucket
My damage seems to be only minor as the cam [timing] belt skipped a tooth rather than completely snapping which causes the pistons to collide with the valves much more aggressively even causing them to snap.
Now that the head is off I want to see which valves are damaged so I poured a brake fluid into the sides of the heads into the valve recesses to see which leak. I forgot to take photos of this but in the AO project thread link I gave above it has some.
I only had one exhaust valve bent to I ordered it but I needed a special tool again to remove the valve[s]. I went and bought a tool from my local auto shop for removing valves but it was useless to the v6 as it has recessed springs and valve clips. I returned it and ended up coming up with this using an F clamp from the hardware and a strong socket shaped piece of plumbing which I could hacksaw down the side to create access to the valve clips with tweezers. See photos:
I must admit I felt like a right pro when I was lapping for the first time the valve into the seat.
I cleaned up the top of the block and the head with steel wool and installed a new gasket. I purchased a torque wrench at this point to get the bolts just right.
I proceeded with the reassembly …….. and when it came time to time the engine I came across another hurdle. The cam locks I purchased were stamped and numbered on the top side. I thought this would mean some kind of reference. I am not sure if anyone else has had this problem but here is a link to a thread with a conversation I had with a local alfisti that was well helpful with setting up my locks.
ausalfa.com • View topic - Cam lock order [v6 gtv 24v]
It turns out that starting from the rear cam the order [according to the numbers on my locks] went 2-1-4-3. Confusing yes but sorted now.
I painted along the way all the covers and cast stuff and the engine is looking very pretty. http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...ps45a0a1c2.jpg
I have started her and she runs! But she is a bit lumpy and ticky. I think maybe one of the coil pack are stuffed or injectors need a clean but I am guessing a bit before I get my alfa diag cable which is on its way in the mail. Also I accidentally mixed up the caps for the valves [also known as tappets]when I bumped them in the shed so the tickyness may subside. Keep it posted.
I think for a novice the engine is easier to build than tune as one is following text and pictures the other is experience and intuition.