Planning the next
AO Silver Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Agree with the above. Autodrop will only make a significant difference if is the height stops that are the problem. It will not fix problems resulting from other adjustment errors.
I would suggest going right back to basics.
First check the door is correctly fitted in its aperture. If the door isn't correct, you'll never get the window right. Look for an even panel gap to the rear wing of about 4mm. The door should hit the striker cleanly. You should be able to put a ruler over the door/rear wing and it should rest on the wing/door along it's length. Top and bottom. The top of the door should align with the top of the rear wing. Do not try and adjust to the front wing. That is plastic and should itself be adjusted to the door and bonnet.
Once you're certain the door is good, start on the window by adjusting the height stops so they stop the window JUST clear of the security strip at the edge of the roof when closing the door. The window MUST hit both height stops simultaneously.
With the window stopped by the height stops, slacken the two bolts on the regulator and adjust the window ( rotate & slide ) in it's carrier so that the trailing edge is parallel to the 'B' pillar with about a 3 to 4mm gap from the 'B' pillar. Re-tighten the bolts.
Check the height stops. Check the window doesn't hit the B pillar when the door is being closed.
Check the in-out trajectory. The glass should follow the rubber seal all the way up. It should not be clear of the rubber nor should it distort the rubber either at the base of the window or the top. It should also slide under the security strip when wound up and the door is closed. The motor should not strain when lifting the window.
In any event, the trajectory will probably be wrong. Again, go back to basics. First make sure you have the correct gap on the guide rails at the bottom. This is the slotted bolt that is locked in place with a nut and holds the guide rail in the correct place. On each of these there should be a 4mm gap between the door skin and the guide rail. See the diagram in the workshop manual volume 2, section 70 page 10/4. Set the gap on both rails to 4mm and tighten the lock nut. Re-check the gap.
Slacken the bolts on the clamp guides that affix the window to the vertical guide rails. The workshop manual suggests that with the window fully up and the door shut, you can get an approximate fit by now pushing on the glass from the outside ( workshop manual page 10/1 ). This has never worked for me but it may work with one person pressing the glass from outside and another inside the car fiddling with and re-tightening the clamps. Whatever way you do it, the clamps allow you to to set the trajectory almost perfectly. Each time you adjust the trajectory clamps, you also have to revisit the height stops! Eventually, you will have the trajectory correct or almost so. Very fine adjustments can be made with the slotted screws and locknuts at the base of the door. But be aware that adjusting one with the screw may take the other end a bit out of adjustment.
You then have to re-do the adjustment to the 'B' pillar and height stops again.
Another way I've tried to do the trajectory ( window following the rubber all the way ) was to remove the rubber seals in the window aperture ( these are not easy to refit so determine you really want to do this first! ). You don't have to remove them completely and it's a good idea not to. Just remove from the base of the A pillar across the top of the window and down the B pillar to the door. Allow the rubber to rest on the seat. By leaving the rest of the rubber in place you ensure the door is in the right place as well. Now you can adjust the trajectory clamps so the window aims just inside the security strip along it's entire length. Refit the rubber seal ( use vaseline or washing up liquid to get the rubber into the security strip ).
I'd allow a solid day to get the first window correct. You may also have to find a way to charge the car's battery while you work.
There is a tool that can be bought to help with the adjustment but it costs a lot of money for what it is.
EDIT : You also need to allow the regulator trajectory to align correctly. See workshop manual 10/2 point 5.
Last edited by pkr; 12-03-13 at 11:37.