Great post as always Alex! I didn't mean the seals were a 5 hour job, but actually changing the master cylinder is! I probably didn't make that clear enough in the first place
Ah no - I wasn't disagreeing with you
- I agree that replacing the cylinder (to do the job 'properly') is a horrid undertaking and it would take me that long - such an awkward lack of space! It made best sense to replace the seals, as it was cheap and totally effective, and also complete cylinders aren't readily available here (I wanted it fixed that day). I agree with IanA too, black fluid means seal wear is highly likely, and when you see the seals that come out, there's usually no question about it.
This is another job that is on my "to do" list as I can feel that judery sensation when I first depress my clutch when it's cold; indicating that some fluid is creeping past the seals.
Or that the release bearing is chewing a groove in the spring fingers and catching slightly?
I've had that happen - but since you say 'when cold', hopefully it's not! Also with a V6 I think you have a pull-type clutch, so disregard...
Gearchanges are also a bit notchy when cold, after pumping the clutch a few times I can get it warmed up and working fine so have been putting it off
Do you know the master cylinder make & model?
Perhaps try a gearbox oil change with a tube of additive? I find them worthwhile (I use Nulon, an Australian product). The master cylinder is made by Bendix but I don't know the dimension or part number.
I know these days parts counter staff tend to have a "look-up-the-reg-number and computer-says-no, sorry-we-don't-list-anything-for-that-model" mentality, but if you can find someone who actually knows how to use a Vernier caliper, then sweet-az. We still have some of those places in NZ
Meanwhile, to answer Turtle's question, how far should the slave cylinder throw out? I don't have a Twinspark to check, but I'm guessing at least 3cm.