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GTV rear camber/alignment way out..help

5K views 15 replies 5 participants last post by  alfarc 
#1 ·
As per the title I have a problem with my rear suspension on my GTV.

I have read other threads on here regarding instability and camber but from what I have read these tend to be for both sides, come from worn bushes, shocks, springs. The problem I have is my near-side rear camber is visibly way out, off-side is fine. Holding a bubble level against the wheel and comparing with the off-side shows how different the camber is.

This is only a recent problem, last 1000 miles or so and has resulted in 'polishing' the inside 50mm of the tyre at a scary rate. Also took for alignment yesterday and this is way out, tyre shop stated they ran out of adjustment and still alignment was not registering on their equipment, guessed was about -18°. Need help, suggestions, please.

All lower bushes on suspension were replaced last spring (Polybushes fitted to spring arm and shock arms), not lowered & OEM shocks & springs. Just replaced the upper ball joint, before alignment. I have a memory that about the time the problem started I clipped a kerb. What could be bent, broken? Have had a look and nothing obvious. Also shows up as a slight snaking when crossing white line to overtake &/or hitting pot holes. Could one shock going throw out the camber & alignment this much on just one side?

Plan to get under at the weekend & have a proper look, measure up. Is there a prescribed length for the upper arm? Car is a GTV Twinspark 2002.

Any suggestions welcome.
 
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#2 ·
Shock doesn't provide physical support so not that. The spring does and that could be broken (but they should have spotted it???). Has the wrong balljoint been fitted - does it match the other side? I believe TS and V6 upper arms are different lengths - but they don't change themselves!
 
#3 ·
I believe TS and V6 upper arms are different lengths - but they don't change themselves!
O/p did change balljoint, there is a thread somewhere on here where the balljoint was changed and seemed to be the wrong size and messed up the camber. Couldnt find it in a few minutes searching though..

Is the ride height the same on both sides?
If anything is bent, its likely to be the top arm, unless the spring pans are rusted away, they are much more substantial.
 
#4 ·
I am aware the V6 wishbone is longer.

Spring pans are sound, striped them when I replaced the bushes last year. Position of centre of wheel is same on both sides, vertical and horizontal are the same on off- and near-sides, length from chassis bolt centre to ball joint same both sides, but some asymmetry in offending wishbone arm, so looks like this could be the culprit.

Plan is to replace upper wishbone, I also have a set of bushes to fit the wishbone, so am after an used example. Anyone on here got one to offer? Nearside twinspark.
 
#5 ·
OK, I got hold of a used top arm, removed the bushes & replaced with Powerflex. Opened up the bolts holes in the ball joint. Refitted all, has improved but still not there. Old arm was not bent or damaged. Rest of arms (spring pan/shock arm) all good as I refurbished & rebushed last year.

Initial set up before road test showed both sides had the same camber, judged using a builders level and noting the bubble position (held on the wheel). Lowered from the stands the height from wheel centre to arch was 42mm. After road testing (which had to wait for snow to go), the nearside is again showing more of a camber. The heights are still correct, 37cm hub centre to wheel arch, both sides.

Any (other) suggestions please?

Plan at the moment is to open up the ball joint holes another mm or two, but this feels like a bodge.
 
#6 ·
Clutching at straws here but think I have read that when it is rebushed it should only be retorqued with the weight on the wheels. Could this be contributing?

Having said that, you mention that problem only became apparent when it was lowered from the stands, suggesting it is something else. I am thinking sagging/broken spring or rusty spring pan. Don't bodge it - there must be a physical problem that can be fixed.
 
#7 ·
It is a bodge, but it does work.

Are you sure there is no damage/wear to the subframe itself. Worn springpan bushes can put wear on the subframe apertures. Are you sure you checked the subframe when you did the job?

I also agree re springs. The springs sag badly on these Alfas with age - the right always wears faster than the left, for obvious reasons. Certainly worth changing the springs and going from there.
 
#9 ·
Cheers, had a look round the subframe last year, no obvious damage or problems there. Look again last few weeks when I changed upper arm, all looks good.

Did torque up with centre heights set up to the 37mm, as I had read that thread as well.

Spring pans are sound, springs look good, not broken anyway but they could well be originals (2002 car 120k miles prob not). So agree that this could be a good bet. Would the ride height be too low if they had aged?
 
#14 ·
Fitted new springs and shocks on the rear and added Powerflex to the upper wishbones. What a difference, like having the car stuck to the road, no light steering, just good firm ride, not sure how I missed the deteriation.

Ride height is 1.5cm more and camber the same on both sides. Tracking was way out, have used my trusty laser level to get near. Oe at least even, I need to get this done properly, anyone know of a good alignment specialist, Wrexham, Shrewsbury, Chester way?
 
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