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(Post Link) post #1 of 29 Old 07-12-12 Thread Starter
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fuel injector light off and no start

Hey guys,I am having an issue these days.I can not start the engine of my 3.0 GTV.Somehow, when I turn the key to the first position, the light of the injector (red one) does not comes on.What might cause that?Does anyone know where should I look for a malfunction?...Thanxxxx
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The bulb behind the injector light hole?
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(Post Link) post #3 of 29 Old 07-12-12 Thread Starter
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hmm,,,,,,If it is burnt it should start the engine though....:-((((
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may be a long shot but disconnect the battery for 30 minutes - resets the ecu...
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Ah sorry fella!
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(Post Link) post #6 of 29 Old 07-12-12 Thread Starter
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I've reset it many times.problem remains..Does anyone have the wiring diagram so I can work out the electric lines..It's 3.0 V6 24V 2001
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I recall you having an ecu problem, did you replace it?
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(Post Link) post #8 of 29 Old 07-12-12 Thread Starter
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Yes I've replaced it already.The injector light didn't come on from the begining of all that mess but I thought it was ecu related.Now I've replaced the ecu, the clackings of the throttle and some relays stopped but the injector light won't come on when I turn the key and I believe that's why the engine won't start.I suppose the fuel injectors don't inject.
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Originally Posted by Chukman View Post
Hey geys, I' m in a great mess trying looking for a used or even new ecu for my edizione sportiva. Suddenly when I parked it outside me house and put out the key, the doors locked, check engine orange light started blinking and the electric throttle under the bonnet started clicking. Is it possible to use ecu from 166 3L? Has anyone encountered the same symptoms?
Sorry, i'm a bit confused, in your other thread you said that with your previous ecu it was blinking and now you say that it didn't come on from the start. Which is it?
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In my other thread I said that what was blinking was the yellow check engine plus a clicking noise of the throttle and relays under the plastic panel of the left fender.What I mentioned in this thread is that the injector light didnt come on neither then nor now that I've replaced the ecu.And I'm wondering what would cause the injector light not to come on when I first turn the key.It should come on when turning the key in the first position (self test), meaning that injectors work well.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chukman View Post
In my other thread I said that what was blinking was the yellow check engine plus a clicking noise of the throttle and relays under the plastic panel of the left fender.What I mentioned in this thread is that the injector light didnt come on neither then nor now that I've replaced the ecu..
Depending on the year of the car they either have an injector shaped light or an engine shaped one(not both).
By your description and by it's year you have the engine shaped one,which with your original ecu fitted it was blinking.What is it doing now?Is it blinking, on all the time, or off?
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Thanks alfa tuner for your analysis-description.It was very helpful.Yes it has the engine shaped one (yellow).Now it does not blinking.It is on steady when I turn the key to first position.But when I crank the engine won't start.
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ok,does the key code light come on when you turn on ignition?
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(Post Link) post #14 of 29 Old 07-12-12 Thread Starter
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Before installing the ecu I went to an electronics-specialist who reset it somehow and told me before installing it to put out the big plug (white one) from the immobilizer box and just leave plugged the small plug (antenna).That's what I did and there is no key code light at all but that's normal as long as I unplugged the one plug isnt it?
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Before installing the ecu I went to an electronics-specialist who reset it somehow and told me before installing it to put out the big plug (white one) from the immobilizer box and just leave plugged the small plug (antenna).That's what I did and there is no key code light at all but that's normal as long as I unplugged the one plug isnt it?
If it has been virginised or "reset" as you call it then the antena wire and for that matter all of the code system should be plugged in in order for it to work.
If on the other hand it had been deimmoed then it wouldn't matter ,but to my knowledge there is no one in your country that can deimmo that particular ecu
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(Post Link) post #16 of 29 Old 07-12-12 Thread Starter
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I am in Greece now.The car is in Greece.I was present at the time he did it.He was in a hurry and said "turn the key on with only the antenna plugged in and next week when I have plenty of time I will programme it to work with your car immobilizer".He connected the ecu to a small diagnostic he pushed some buttons and he finished in almost 20 seconds.I dont know if he really deimmoy it or virginise it.
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(Post Link) post #17 of 29 Old 07-12-12 Thread Starter
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Before managing to find the right ecu (I thank alfaowner.com for that) I tried to fit ecus from 166 3.0 V6 through the virginise process.Same symptoms with now.The engine though wont start.I also notice that the fuel pump wont work because it had no "earth" somehow.I gave "earth" and worked but ofcourse the engine didnt start again.I am in a dead end.I had the car for 2 weeks to be examined thoroughly electrically.Nothing.I wonder what happened to the fuel pump.Does the ecu give the order to the pump to work for 3-4 seconds when you turn the key?Or something happened and caused an electric shock to the car.
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(Post Link) post #18 of 29 Old 08-12-12 Thread Starter
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Heeeeeelp!I've realised today that I do have consant 12v in the injectors when I crank I dont have palm which means the injectors dont inject.what could be wrong?
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I try to help you but you must follow a procedure.
1) Connect everything in your car as originaly was,(ie code box plugged in ,aerial,original ecu)tell me what happens to engine management light and key code light.
2) Now leave everything else connected but swap ecu with your so called reset one and tell me what happens to the two lights.
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ok.with the old ecu i have a clanking noise of the electric throttle and 1 or 2 relays under the left plastic cover (as we look the engine bay) of the fender.also the injector/check engine yellow light keeps blinking.the immo key stays on.no hearing of the pump when I turn the key.

with the new (deimmoed)ecu no clanking or blinking.no immo key of course.the check engine stays on when i turn the key.no hearing of the pump.and i ve noticed (with a led) that i have constant 12v(led light stays on) to the injectors when i turn the key.as if the injectors keep injecting all the time,right?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chukman View Post
with the new (deimmoed)ecu no clanking or blinking.no immo key of course.the check engine stays on when i turn the key.no hearing of the pump.and i ve noticed (with a led) that i have constant 12v(led light stays on) to the injectors when i turn the key.as if the injectors keep injecting all the time,right?
Is your code box and aerial plug connected now?Does your code light come on and go off,or stay on all the time?
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i have bypassed the immobiliser.I have only the small white plug (antena) connected to the immo box.the code light (key light) is off all the time.
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Read my previous posts,connect your code box and tell me what happens to the code light.
As I tried to explain before if your ecu has been virginised then the code light will come on and go off,if your ecu has been deimmoed (which I doubt)the n the code light will stay on but the engine would start.
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i've just connected the code box.code key stays on and no start.
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(Post Link) post #25 of 29 Old 08-12-12 Thread Starter
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I have two strange symptoms when i turn the key in the first position. I dont have ground signal in the fuel pump (pump works fine when I give external ground) and seems to have constant 12v in the injectors, even when I crank (I checked with a led).I suppose the last means that injectors keep injecting all the time right?
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