I'd say unless you are experiencing adverse tire
wear then it is normal for the rear to have some negative camber,
That way in harder cornering the compression of the suspension will
straighten up the angle of the wheel increasing tire contact and smudging
the sidewall load across the tire until the point that grip is broken.
My GTV has borderline 'broken' looking camber. (this -> /------\)
passive rear steering is great but the chuckability and planted looks of a fast road
setup is something else entirely!
If you are experiencing adverse tire wear or just want to peace of mind
it would be well worth getting 4 wheel alignment/ tracking done.
The rear doesn't offer a lot of camber adjustment,
it does offer good toe adjustment
(angle in or out of the inner edge of the tie.. imagine pigeon toed feet.. and that is
exactly what toe in is) If tire wear is an issue chances are one of the rear wheels is grossly
The print out after the tracking will confirm if your
rear camber is excessive or not.
If you are the DIY type the tie-rods for the rear can be found attached
from the subframe to the hub (at the same height as the spring platform.
toward the leading edge of the wheel arch centerline)
The camber itself has mild adjustment with the elongated holes
on the top wishbone/swing arm (the shorter one highest up attached to the subframe
and on a link above the rear hub)
Apply logic here moving the top swing arm out will decrease rear camber but it is very mild.
You can do a relatively good job by eye but ultimately would need to get it
done properly with accurate laser equipment.
'98 916C1 GTV V6 24V - Rosso 130 - 885 Tan Momo - 321 Wood pack - 17" Tele - Zender 'cup' Aero - BMC CDA - Wizard Quad - ELDP - Over racing Ti strut brace - Intrax RS coil-over