Having a quick read of this thread it doesnt seem to take into account how you like a car to feel.
. If everyone liked the same driving feel we would all buy the same car and drive it in the same way.
When I bought my car.....it rolled round corners and bottomed out on country roads, torqu steered badly and dived under braking...not confidence inspiring
. Many have suggested this was simply down to worn out OEM equipment..which I fully agree.
Before moving on to my issues and possible solution ... BMW make a big thing about 50 : 50 weight distribution being the perfect set up (I drive one of these too) however, the Nisan 350z, which is powerful rear wheel drive, has slightly more weight over the front wheels (53% : 47%) logic being as you power out of a bend weight shifts to the rear and thus provides a perfect 50 : 50 when you need it most! As more weight is over the front wheels they also suggest it improves braking and steering into a corner (again makes sense) as more weight up front helps the front tyres bite. (I have driven one of these and think it's a fantastic drive
I know a GTV's weight distribution is much more bias to the front 63% : 37% (V6 that is) but then it's a front wheel drive. I guess mine may be a little less at the rear because i've removed the spare wheel say 64% : 36%. So following the logic through......As the rear is 'significantly' lighter (nearly half) than the ront it suggests the front needs to be firmly sprung but the rear needs to have 'relatively' softer springs to ensure a half-decent ride quality. However under hard accelleration out of a corner the weight shifts to the rear (say 61% : 39%) and springs need to be stiiff enough to prevent rear compression..hence role... hence inside front lifting? Roger of Peak Alfa told me his GTV race springs are about 9 X stiffer than a road car which would be unworkable on the road!
I had the coilovers fitted and front lowered about 20mm nice and firm. Rear lowered about 30mm and poweflexed. Ftted Toyo T1R's (IMHO very best tyres for a GTV) and WOW! Cornered flat, eliminated unpredictable torque steer on straight line accelleration and I could power out of bends drifting slightly on understeer. I could brake without diving (DS 3000 pads are astounding!!). So I had C&B cams fitted, lighter SS exhaust GTA flywheel and remapped with unichip so delivering over 240bhp. Now what is limiting my exit speed is the slipping inner front wheel so I need a Q2 to push the power to the outer wheel and pull me round more effectively. I am considering adding a strut brace up the front but understand this can induce more understeer? even with a Q2?
As you say main issue is ineffective rear damping which 'floated' on undulating country roads so I'll go with the rear KYB's and raise to a 20mm drop. If that sorts the rear out great. If not, then I will change to Koni's and try a firmer setting.
Your advice supports what I have been told and read. Don't mess with the ARB untill I am happy with rear damping.
I though I would powerflex the front and rear ARB to see if this improves the efficiency of the existing ARB but will this adversly affect ride quality by transmitting too much vibration?
After all the above uprating the rear ARB seemes a logical further step as it would allow me to keep 'relatively' softer rear springs (with better damping from new shocks) while distributing the compression on cornering between the two rear springs more eavenly allowing faster exit speed?.
In terms of feel.... I light a 'neutral' car .... Advice always welcome.