GTV won't idle (engine dies) - Alfa Romeo Forum
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GTV won't idle (engine dies)

As title really, leaving work today car wouldnt start. Gave it some gas and it came to life but will die if I let the revs drop. Nursed it home by heel+toeing at every junction to stop it cutting out.


When I got home I fully restarted the car and it seems OK but I'm worried its going to happen again.

The car has had a new MAF a couple of months ago and has been fine since then, it doesn't feel MAF related.

Is there anything else I can check? Anything I can do with the idle control valve maybe? Can the idle control be disconnected perhaps and it will run in safe mode?

Any other suggestions?


It's a 2000 2.0 TS by the way

Many thanks!
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Things to check, The air induction system, is there any splits in the hoses, are the hoses seated correctly? Could be a sticky ICV,, just give a tap with the handle of a screwdriver or something similar. I doubt you can drive if the ICV is disconnected, but I could be wrong.
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It could also be the lambda sensor, they should be changed every 60K and can affect the idle, besides the above diagnosis.
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Thanks, started it this morning and it's been fine. Will keep an eye on it and try the above if/when it comes back.
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Idle problems - try this simple test first

If your engine is having idle problems, before you start worrying about air-flow meters, lambda sensors and constant idle speed actuators (idle control valves) and whacking them with screwdriver handles, try this first... one of the most common reasons for a rough idle is crud building up around the throttle butterfly in the throttle body housing. In both the '94 and '98 onwards 2.0l engines just undo the large jubilee clip holding the large corrugated inlet hose to the throttle body - gently pull the hose away revealing the large throttle butterfly. Get yourself a can of carburettor cleaner (not brake cleaner or WD40) - I use wynn's and spray it all over the throttle butterfly. Use a clean rag and clean all the black crud you can see from the butterfly. Use your left hand and open up the butterfly and spray more cleaner down and around the butterfly - try to get as much of the black crap off as you can. You want to make sure the lower edge where the butterfly closes against the housing is a clean as you can. Don't worry about the cleaner going down into the engine as it'll get burnt off - but don't go crazy with the spraying! Re-fit the large hose to the throttle body and tighen the jubilee clip. Start the engine. Just let it run without revving the engine. Let it idle at 1200rpm then after a couple of minutes it'll drop to around 800rpm. Then you can give it some revvs. If the cleaning has worked the revvs should fall back evenly to around 800rpm all the time and with a smooth idle. My GTV 2.0 1998 kept dropping back to 0 revvs then bounced back to 800rpm - had to heel and toe all the time to keep the revvs up. Cleaning the throttle butterfly solved the problem.

If cleaning the throttle butterfly doesn't work, then it's time to start down the route of air-flow meters, sticking crud-filled/faulty ICVs, lambda sensors - oh, joy of joys!

Just on the point of whacking the constant idle speed actuator with a screwdriver handle, the early 2.0 engines 94-97 had the actuator on top of the throttle body and it's quite obvious, the later engine '98 onwards with the two Bosch connectors on the top of the throttle body, the valve is much harder to get at as it is all part of the MDS. With both versions, try cleaning before whacking - it just might work!
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Tap with a screwdriver, 2 seconds, cleaning the butterfly (which has been detailed on here several times), a lot longer!

I know what worked for me
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True - a whack with the screwdriver does only take 2 secs to free the sticking valve, but it's sticking for a reason... usually crud. Cleaning the butterfly and/or the idle actuator doesn't take that long! 10 mins!!
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Member car:

gtv ts phase 2

mine done that and fixed itself yer gotta love alfas lol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diamondgeezer View Post
If your engine is having idle problems, before you start worrying about air-flow meters, lambda sensors and constant idle speed actuators (idle control valves) and whacking them with screwdriver handles, try this first... one of the most common reasons for a rough idle is crud building up around the throttle butterfly in the throttle body housing. In both the '94 and '98 onwards 2.0l engines just undo the large jubilee clip holding the large corrugated inlet hose to the throttle body - gently pull the hose away revealing the large throttle butterfly. Get yourself a can of carburettor cleaner (not brake cleaner or WD40) - I use wynn's and spray it all over the throttle butterfly. Use a clean rag and clean all the black crud you can see from the butterfly. Use your left hand and open up the butterfly and spray more cleaner down and around the butterfly - try to get as much of the black crap off as you can. You want to make sure the lower edge where the butterfly closes against the housing is a clean as you can. Don't worry about the cleaner going down into the engine as it'll get burnt off - but don't go crazy with the spraying! Re-fit the large hose to the throttle body and tighen the jubilee clip. Start the engine. Just let it run without revving the engine. Let it idle at 1200rpm then after a couple of minutes it'll drop to around 800rpm. Then you can give it some revvs. If the cleaning has worked the revvs should fall back evenly to around 800rpm all the time and with a smooth idle. My GTV 2.0 1998 kept dropping back to 0 revvs then bounced back to 800rpm - had to heel and toe all the time to keep the revvs up. Cleaning the throttle butterfly solved the problem.

If cleaning the throttle butterfly doesn't work, then it's time to start down the route of air-flow meters, sticking crud-filled/faulty ICVs, lambda sensors - oh, joy of joys!

Just on the point of whacking the constant idle speed actuator with a screwdriver handle, the early 2.0 engines 94-97 had the actuator on top of the throttle body and it's quite obvious, the later engine '98 onwards with the two Bosch connectors on the top of the throttle body, the valve is much harder to get at as it is all part of the MDS. With both versions, try cleaning before whacking - it just might work!
@diamondgeezer, you mentioned that the later engines with the two large plugs ontop of the throttle body, on these engines, where does the constant idle speed actuator sit?
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Phase 2 cars it is more on the side of the throttle body. You can't miss it. It's a black plastic thing with the cables plugged into it. After 2001 phase 2 went to electronic throttle and are different again
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfapash View Post
It could also be the lambda sensor, they should be changed every 60K and can affect the idle, besides the above diagnosis.
Mine have done just over 110k so I'm guessing are due for a change; is it a straight swap and that's it or does anything need resetting etc?
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Originally Posted by Nellytheroc View Post
Mine have done just over 110k so I'm guessing are due for a change; is it a straight swap and that's it or does anything need resetting etc?
No re-setting. Just remove the lambda sensor from the exhaust-pre cat. It can be a bit of a job to undo it. Once you have undone it from the exhaust down pipe, attach the new one to opposite end (electrical plug) and pull it through, the opposite end plugs in at the back of the engine at the top. It's quite tight feeding in down. The other option is if you have an electricians cable feeder you can use that. Make sure you buy a Bosch lambda, don't buy a cheapy from ebay, they are rubbish.
Your's is a PH 2 and the tapping with a screwdriver fix won't work with the ph 2 ICV as it is different to the phase 1 model. You can only replace it if it's not working. It is also worth doing an idle re-set procedure, that worked for me when my idle was bouncing around between 0-2000rpm every time I stopped.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfapash View Post
No re-setting. Just remove the lambda sensor from the exhaust-pre cat. It can be a bit of a job to undo it. Once you have undone it from the exhaust down pipe, attach the new one to opposite end (electrical plug) and pull it through, the opposite end plugs in at the back of the engine at the top. It's quite tight feeding in down. The other option is if you have an electricians cable feeder you can use that. Make sure you buy a Bosch lambda, don't buy a cheapy from ebay, they are rubbish.
Your's is a PH 2 and the tapping with a screwdriver fix won't work with the ph 2 ICV as it is different to the phase 1 model. You can only replace it if it's not working. It is also worth doing an idle re-set procedure, that worked for me when my idle was bouncing around between 0-2000rpm every time I stopped.
Cheers for the advice, unfortunately the CF3 has 3 lambdas so its not cheap to do
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