How much of an epic task/ballache is a DIY clutch change on a TS? - Alfa Romeo Forum
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How much of an epic task/ballache is a DIY clutch change on a TS?

As the title suggests.

The clutch on my Spider is shagged - has been since I bought it in 2007 But its really starting to get upset with itself now, the release bearing rattles like a good'un and it slips every now and again in 3rd and 4th gear.

Taking it to a local place here in NL is a no-no - labour rates and parts prices are through the roof and id be looking at 1000+

So my options are to DIY or wait until mid next year and do a bit of car repair tourism, come to the UK and leave it at somewhere like Autolusso

I dont need the car over winter, I have a dry garage with jacks and stands and a decent selection of basic tools.

I work on my cars frequently (simple stuff like engine mounts, oil changes, changing exhaust) but a clutch change would be far and away the most complex and therefore most problematic thing I would have attempted. I also need to do the main engine-g'box seal at the same time as its leaked since I have had the car!

Are there any pitfalls to do doing it on these cars that makes the garage option more sensible?

The car itself is a LHD 2.0TS CF2. I have the official Alfa workshop manuals.

Personal experiences welcomed!

-1998 916 Spider 2.0TS Lusso-
H&S Corse stage 1.
CATCAMs stage 1 cams with Savali custom ECU remap.
305mm discs with 166 4-pot callipers.
Ragazzon exhaust mid section.
Biscione Racing 2x70mm rear section.
Polybush suspension.
17" Zender Siena wheels with 3mm rear spacers.
etc etc etc!
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interesting post. has your release bearing been making a noise when pressED for 5 years ?
the parts over here range from 120 190 depends where you buy.(VALEO IS THE REC MAKE I THINK) and think prices fitted range from 450 650
thats in pound sterling so add 20% for euros,
their i a post on here about a v6 clutch job. i think one day might have to do mine as the r/b is noisey when pressed but the clutch works fine a little stiff and no slippage. if you got the time AND RIGHT tools and a dry place to work you could do it your self. their seems to be differnt opinions about the job. some say remove the sub frame first other say no need but the box once released some how has to be twisted to clear the sub frame be fore dropping. i was wondering if it could be done by moving the box to the right hand side by 12 inches.(keep the box in the same plane as the engine ) if you only need to replace the clutch. sounds like 2 sets of hands are better than one
i think a engine support bar above the engine/gerabox (or a hydraulic engind hoist) plus blocks under and jacks and axle stands is the way to go.
i have not done one myself, but would be interested in recommended prodecure, from people who HAVE.

Last edited by phwspider; 10-10-12 at 12:03.
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I carried out a clutch change on my spider this last summer.
It was not easy but is certainly do-able with the right equipment. I managed with axle stands, a crocodile jack and a scissor jack.
Take as many parts off the engine/gearbox as you see fit, don't skimp because you need as much access as possible to remove the box mounting bolts and linkeages. Undo all engine mounts and allow the engine to be manhandled as much as possible (ensure supported though!) to allow gearbox to be removed without removing subframe.
I'll bet others will say they have a better way though!
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I've got the box off my car at the moment to do the clutch along with a load of other things, if you do it by the book there is alot to take off. It's just nuts and bolts though and perfectly achievable on the drive.
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Member car:

Gtv V6

I had two Spiders.

One had the clutch replaced a year ago but reverse gear was broken.
The other had a heavy clutch.
The third (my yellow Spider) has an oil leak from the balance shaft core plug just inside the bellhousing.

(there are three types of people in the world: those who can count, and those who can't).

You get quite good at taking off gearboxes after a few goes...

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