Changed the clutch master cylinder on mine a year ago, and it took all weekend...
1. Drivers seat out so you can lie on your back and dismantle the clutch pedal etc and get at the cylinder nuts (you can see them, you can get a socket to them, but you can't do both at the same time!) Angle mirror and torch are useful here.
2. Dismantle most of top of engine including airbox, intake tubes, and lots of wiring, and slide airbox to one side so you can skin your knuckles getting two spanners to the master cylinder hydraulic pipe (that's siezed on!)
3. Fitting the new one is a bit of a doddle after all that.
NB the new one was slightly different, the bore was narrower which meant that as the piston went fully in, the angle it made caused the piston arm to jam solid on the side of the cylinder. Carefull re-fitting of the pedal linkage helped with this. The narrow bore also means the clutch pedal has to go down further than before to free the clutch as the volume of fluid is smaller than with the original master cylinder.