Drilled or drilled and grooved - the question! - Page 3 - Alfa Romeo Forum
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They come in 1L containers, that should do.
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'container' thats the word yes..couldn't think ....I shall get on that asap even if it makes no differance in my case as it may have already been done (on major service / belts etc.) but its worth doing anyway.
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all you need to know about brakes. Click on the links..


edit: I don't work for powerbrake and not trying to sell anything either, just providing a source of free info from a reputable place.
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Crazed Do not use slotted or drilled rotors...

If the original rotors where not drilled or slotted NEVER replace with slotted or drilled (or both) UNLESS you are increasing the diameter of the rotor in proportion to the amount of metal the drilled holes or slots remove.

Slots and drilled holes only serve to limit the gas buildup under serious hard and repeated braking (ie track). Otherwise they add little to no value (zero). Except to reduce the total surface area which equals less ability to dissipate heat. Contrary to popular belief the cross-drilled holes to not increase airflow (enough to make difference) they are to allow gas to escape and enable more pad pressure on the rotor.

Of course they look cooler...

Here is what to do to if you want to actually increase braking efficiency (in this order):
1. Replace brake fluid with high temp brake fluid (i.e Castor SRF - unbelievable stuff) this can increase fade resistance alone by as much as 25%. (Must completely flush old fluid out)

2. Replace pads with higher temp pads. Be careful not to trade off too much cold performance - but there are a lot of options. You need to carefully research the pads.

3. Rotors that have a different metal composition to give higher friction coefficient - will wear quicker though.

Otherwise replace entire system with larger braking system - and then of course you can now use slotted/drilled rotors.

That's my experience and my opinion. Hope it helps...

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Originally Posted by SimonT View Post
If its only for road use I would say there is no point in going for anything more than the cheapest standard ones. Got mine from buypartsby or shop4parts, no complaints at all. Spent my money on refurbed calipers, no corrosion under the bearing plates so the pads aren't seized - transformation! Apparently Performance Friction pads are a good idea. Previously had drilled and grooved but didn't detect any benefit.

A properly serviced & maintained standard brake set up (Calipers, slave & master cylinders and bias valves if fitted) with standard discs & pads will have a far greater influence on braking performance than fitting drilled/drilled & grooved discs and new pads alone.
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My 2cents... Be really careful of going mad and getting excited about better pads, ie hard, hot or race stuff. Someone will shout me down for saying it and YMMV, but... they are not for everyone and can feel dangerous to many, especially if you dont drive the car often as its a second car etc. I fitted Red Stuff pads to the slightly upgraded disks on my old scooby back in the day in the UK. On the motorway you needed an extra second of time (felt much longer!) when applying the brakes to get enough heat into them to gain some initial bite after they had been cooled by the flow of air in the fast lane for a few miles. It made for enough 'moments' on my commute that I very quickly ditched them for something more normal.

My beloved 2001 TS Spider needs work...

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in about 1971 Honda and Norton put a disc brake on their 750cc motorbikes.. it was great until it rained and got wet .. the pads just aquaplaned on the disc.. not good.. bikes don't have the weather protection cars have..
so after about two years of crashing into the back of things Honda drilled some holes in the disc to prevent the aquaplaning.. the rest is history..
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IIRC those early motorbike disks were a lovely shiny stainless and the pads of the day were not sintered which never produced a great brake anyway. However, about 10 years after first introduction of those stainless disks sintered brake pads were introduced and that also gave a very significantly improved brake.

During that early time cast iron disks were also produced for bikes as these had a higher coefficient of friction when used with those unsintered pads.

Some people remember those transition years and still believe that cast iron discs are the best brake but stainless disks and sintered pads have been as good or better than cast iron for about the last 20 years. Or that is how it has been with bikes. The advantage of cast iron disks is that they are far cheaper to produce but they rust easily especially in the exposed position on bikes.
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yes Karl you're right.. my Guzzi had a blob of disc shaped rust on the front. but it did work rather well..

I seem to remember back then cast iron was thought best for 'serious' bike brakes and shiney stainless drilled for the consumer stuff.. but the undrilled discs wouldn't work in the wet (on a bike) no matter what pads..

In the early 80's Honda introduced a fully enclosed bike disc to try to get around the problem.. didn't work due to lack of cooling.. most bike discs these days are damn near three quarters the diameter of the rolling wheel, some even bolted to the rim, one hell of a mechanical advantage, there's simply is not enough room to do that on a car.

anyway I think the idea of fancy drilled and grooved discs moved from the bike world in which it was necessary, to the car world. in the consumer market anyway.

My standard discs and pads are easily capable of initiating the ABS.. what more can you ask for on a road car.

Gettin' to old for this sh*t

Last edited by seadart; 03-08-12 at 19:32.
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drilled , grooved , question

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