I’ll start with detailing the wiring as that needs to be done before fitting the updated Integrated Services Unit (N82).
First a warning. If you have a late phase 1 DO NOT refer to the wiring diagram in the workshop manual for your car. It is wrong. Wrong in at least two ways. Instead, use the wiring diagram for the 1998 phase 2. It is to all intents and purposes identical and has the benefit of not having the errors. So, instead of using Vol3 part 2 “Electric System Diagnosis 97” section 19, use Vol3 part 2 “Electric System Diagnosis 98” section 19 for the 1998 model year.
And a reminder : Left hand drive owners need to check wire colours and wire lengths. They are probably the same as RHD but will be reversed. But do check.
It’s also worth checking before buying parts that the ‘A’ pillar/door connectors have 1 spare way on each side. With possible manufacturing variations or modifications by other people spare ways may have been used. With phase 2 cars, you should be using way number 15.
The proper wire colours used by the autodrop system are Light Blue/Red and Green/Black. The manual states 1mm² wire. I used1.5mm² wire as it was available for the colours and it better fits the terminals.
The Green/Black wire goes from N82 B12 to the driver’s door and Light Blue/Red goes from N82 A7 to the passenger door. In order to tap into the connectors you’ll need two Tyco Electronics Superseal 1.5 female terminals. Part number is 282110-1 and they are available from Farnell or RS for about 10p ( GBP pence ) each. You’ll use another 4 of these terminals in the doors if you modify existing regulators. These are crimp terminals and the use of proper crimp pliers is a good idea. However, careful use of ordinary pliers and the addition of a little solder will do.
You’ll need about 1 metre of Light Blue/Red wire to go from the Integrated Services Unit (N82) behind the glove box to the passenger ‘A’ pillar connector and about 2 metres of Green/Black wire to go from N82 to the driver’s ‘A’ pillar connector. For the ‘A’ pillar connector you will need one male Tyco Electronics terminal part number 926981-2. Again available from Farnell and RS but a bit more expensive at 44p each with a minimum order of 10 at Farnell and 50(!) at RS.
In the forground of this photograph are the two N82 connectors. The Light Blue/Red wire for the passenger door is coiled up in the footwell. The bits of silver metal in the bottom right are the terminals used in the N82 connectors still attached to their sprue. The Green/Black wire for the driver’s door can be seen bundled in the loom top right.
For phase 2 cars you should find that way 15 is vacant in the door/’A’ pillar connectors. Cars with autodrop as standard use way 15 for this purpose so also using 15 will keep it the same. For phase 1 it’s take your pick. The connectors are wired very differently and way 15 is not available. I used way 23 on the driver’s side ( one of 2 vacant ways ) and one of the 4 vacant ways on the passenger side ( I can’t remember exactly which one! ).
This is the passenger side ( right hand drive ) connector from the ‘A’ pillar. The Light Blue/Red wire is the one for autodrop. Ignore the other two loose wires – they were for the external temperature sensor for my climate control retro fit project. Note the red cable guide : be sure to push the wire through the correct hole before you attach the terminal to the wire.
and this is the driver’s side connector ( right hand drive ). Once the wire has been pushed into the hole, the cable guide will be snapped back into place.
Inside the doors the wiring continues in the same colours from the door/’A’ pillar connectors. For the door side of the connector you’ll need one Tyco female terminal per side and is part number 827039-1. Guess where they’re available from! They’re cheaper at between 8p & 13p each with the cheaper price ( April 2012 ) at Farnell and with only 10 as the minimum order.
You’ll need a minimum of 800mm of wire for each door. In addition, you’ll need a small amount ( 300mm? ) of black wire for the earth per door.
This is the loom as it came out of the car. A lot of the loom tape has unravelled and will be replaced. You can see two spare ways in the door/A pillar connector ( large rubber booted connector mid left ).
The new wire with terminal :
Rubber boot slid back and loom tape removed. The new wire has been inserted into the connector.
Close up of the connector –
Loom with new wire re-taped up to the boot
The boot has been moved back down. Tip when easing the boot back onto the connector, ensure the connector is aligned correctly. It’s a lot more difficult to rotate it to the correct orientation when it’s back on the car.
New wire pulled through boot.
If you’re doing the project in stages, I’d recommend temporarily connecting the Green/Black and Light Blue/Red wires to earth in the doors. If you don’t and fit the new N82 before the new regulators, the windows will wind all the way down and try to keep going when the door is opened. I know from experience! So either fit the new N82 last or temporarily earth your wires.
The majority of the loom has been re-wrapped in fabric loom tape. The new wires have been soldered together temporarily to prevent the autodrop working until the regulator has been modified. Once the correct connector has been fitted, it will also be taped up
The wires connect to the regulator microswitch with a Tyco Superseal 2 way housing. Part number is 282104-1. The terminals are male and part number 183024-1 and two are needed each side. Similar prices to those already mentioned for the terminals, the housings are about 60p ( 1 each side ). In addition, you should use the weatherproofing plugs to seal the connector. The wires are pushed through the seals before crimping the terminal on. Doors are essentially open to the elements and as the seals are only about 7p each it’s stupid not to use them. Seals are available in three sizes ( red, green and yellow ). I used green but yellow would also have worked. Part numbers are 281934-4 ( green ) and 282081-1 ( yellow ). Full kits of these 2 way ‘Superseal’ connectors are available on eBay and include both halves of the connector housing, 4 terminals and 4 weather seals. Otherwise use Farnell/RS.
---Picture(s) to follow---
If you’re modifying a non autodrop regulator, then you’ll also need the other side of this connector. Part number 282080-1 together with 2 terminals ( same ones as used on the N82A and N82B connectors ) and 2 more weather seals per side.
The connector housing needs to be very near the window motor connector. If you make it a little longer than the motor connector spur on the door loom, you’ll be fine.
For the earth wire, you need to tap into one of the earth wires in the door’s loom. After unwrapping the loom tape and exposing the wires, I used the fattest black wire. I stripped a little of the insulation
and the new earth wire has been soldered to it
I then wrapped the joint in self amalgamating tape to weather seal and insulate it.
A scotchloc could also be used instead of soldering. It is probably a very bad idea to attach the earth wire to the door itself. The door hinges may not be a good conductor to the rest of the car and if the earth does not conduct the window will wind itself all the way down when the door is opened and try to keep going. That may result in the motor burning itself out.