It will be the white 25A fuses.
OK, the autodrop explains it closing the window even with the ignition off. This coupled with your observation on the slowness of the passenger window makes me think that the autodrop mechanism is trying to close the window but, maybe because the motor is near knackered, the controller isn't getting the correct current sensing information to think the window is closed.
Two ways to diagnose further and it means removing the door card.
Wind the window all the way down
Remove the door card
Unplug connector for the autodrop switch. This is a two way connector near the motor. Don't disconnect the motor by accident! The wire colours will be either 'Green-Black and black' or 'Light Blue-Red and black'.
Take the half of the connector on the car side ( you should see the wires going to the main door loom ) and bridge out the two terminals in the connector with some wire. This is not permanent - it is just a test. What you're doing is taking the green-black or light blue-red wire ( whichever is correct for the door ) and connecting it to ground. This will effectively disable the autodrop.
Close the door.
Ignition on and wind the window all the way up.
Open the door - window will not autodrop
Close the door and you shouldn't hear the motor going anymore as you describe in your first post.
If that's the case, you now need to diagnose the actual problem!
Possible causes are :
Window controller failing
Poor conductivity in one of the connectors along the way
The last is the easiest to test and I'd start with the connector betweenthe door and 'A' pillar. Undo that and check as much as you can for corrosion/dirt. Try a few repeated plugs/unplugs to see if that cleans it up a bit. Test by removing your bridging in the autodrop connector and opening/closing the door.
Testing the motor and controller is a bit more involved and problematical. I'll have a think.
EDIT : Whilst this does not appear to explain why the driver's window is also not working, when I was experimenting with retro fitting autodrop to my phase 1, I did see a similar situation. In my case the window went down all the way and behaved as your passenger window does and the other window was disabled.
If you do the experiment above and the driver's window still fails to operate, then that would point to a faulty controller.
Last edited by pkr; 01-04-12 at 09:27.