One of the things I'd noticed with my '98 TS Spider (now on the road) is that the clutch pedal would end up rather low most of the time. Lifting the pedal with my toe would restore normal operation for a few uses.
There was a bottle of brake and clutch fluid in the boot - always an interesting sign - but I found the reservoir still full.
This evening I decided to try bleeding the clutch. To gain access, I removed the plastic section of the air intake (from between the two rubber pipes), which includes a bulky 'resounder' that obscures the clutch slave cylinder. To get this resounder out, I also had to swivel around one of the hose clips on the thermostat.
I hooked up the Gunsons Eezibleed (bought at Halfords Bristol!) and in light of past experience, didn't bother to fill its bottle (if the cap blasts off, fluid goes everywhere...) I connected it to the left front tyre and thereby pressurised the reservoir. I put a tube on the slave cylinder bleed nipple and opened it with a 7mm spanner.
A small amount (about 100mL) of very dirty fluid came out along with a lot of air and then - just air, with some force!
What I have learned is that the reservoir has to be practically brim-full to supply the clutch circuit (a safety device to prevent depleting the brake fluid reserve if the clutch circuit leaks). After un-pressurising, I filled the Eezibleed's bottle with fluid and re-pressurised, which keeps the reservoir supplied. I was then able to bleed a large quantity (about 500mL) of fluid through the clutch circuit, which got all the air and dirt out. The car's reservoir cannot supply this quantity, so I suggest that pressure bleeding is probably the way to go - it's also quick and easy (provided the cap stays on), and there's no need to touch the pedal, though it should first be raised to its highest position to allow fluid flow through the circuit.
So far the clutch feels great. Time will tell, of course. But at least if I do have to replace something, the bleeding process will be easier now that I know about the small reservoir capacity
I remembered to top-up the air in the left front tyre too. Then I moved on to refitting the aftermarket gear knob so that it doesn't spin around, and I removed the bootlid latch and replaced its micro switch so that the boot light comes on. Removed and refitted the sill trim on the left side a little further forward, so that the join doesn't creak against the door trim with the door closed. Went around both the door trims and seals with silicone spray - might alleviate some of the creaking, might not... Adjusted both the doors so that they close a little easier (very tight fit before...) I used black silicone sealant, rubbed with a rag soaked in turps, to repair four tiny slits in the roof - backed up with a single piece of duck tape applied underneath by reaching in with the roof partially open. So that's a few things ticked off the list...