Oil Filter is rusty
It sounds like that car is in desperate need of some TLC. I've never seen an oil filter that has started to corrode!
What's missing from your list and should be there ( on a car that has probably been neglected ) is the cam belt. These are supposed to be changed at 3 years/36,000 miles.
Of your list, the oil change is theoretically the easiest to do. In principle, get under car ( you have a good jack and
axle stands? ), slacken drain plug ( a largish Allen bolt ) at the back of the sump, place catch tray, remove plug and allow to drain. Replace plug ( don't overtighten and use a new copper washer ) and wipe away any oil drips. Place tray under filter and unscrew it. Make sure the filter mating surface is clean and in good condition, smear
a little oil on the rubber seat of the new filter and screw it on. Don't overtighten. Stick in 4.5 litres of oil. Put car on ground and put some paper under the drain plug area. Get someone else to start the car and watch the filter and the paper under the drain plug for leaks. If you see one, get the engine stopped. The other person is there to stop the engine quickly if the leak is catastrophic!
1. Your car may still have its undertray. If so, the fastenings may have corroded ( especially if the car has been neglected ) and it has to come out to do the oil change.
2. Previous oil changes may have wrecked the sump plug and bodged it. Or it has been overtightened and compromised.
I've never used an engine flush, but if the car has been badly neglected I would consider doing that as well. Or plan on the first oil change being a short one ( 500-1000 miles? ) and then doing a proper one.
The front discs is fairly easy. You'd need a breaker bar for your socket as the bolts are tight, torque wrench, string, paper towels and a G clamp or something similar.
There's a recent guide on doing it, but the main steps are :
1. Remove road wheel
2. remove the wheel locating pin in the hub face
3. undo 2 bolts fastening brake caliper to hub
4. With the string, tie the caliper to the spring ( so the hose isn't stressed )
5. Pull off the old disc
6. clean the hub face
7. fit new disc and refit locator pin
8. slacken brake/clutch fluid reservoir cap and have some paper towels ready in the area
9. use the G clamp to squeeze the caliper piston back in constantly ensuring brake fluid doesn't overflow the reservoir. Use paper towels to mop up any spills
10. fit new pads in caliper
11. refit caliper and torque it up to correct figures.
12.repeat other side
13. remove any excess brake fluid back to the 'max' line and replace the cap
I believe it is recommended to replace the caliper fixing bolts but not many people do. Some people also say using a torque wrench is unnecessary. However, when you look at the figures you'll typically find that the range goes from 50% to 90% of the bolt's tensile strength so there isn't a lot of leeway at the upper end before the bolt is compromised.
As to the brake pipes. Is this the rubber hoses or the metal pipes which have corroded?
If it's the metal pipes, the front right and to a lesser extent the rear right are very hard work to replace. The right rear is no longer available as a factory part so you have to get one made at a motor factor then bend to the shape of the old one. Right front requires the removal of the whole induction system ( including plenum ) in order to get access ( the pipe runs the full width of the bulkhead and is seriously twisty! ). Left rear is easy and left front is ok'ish. However, whether it's pipes or hoses, it's a good opportunity to replace all the brake fluid at the same time.
If it's the hoses, check the metal pipes at the union. If there's any corrosion there, the pipe could well fracture when undoing the hose.
Clutch, probably best not trying yourself. Gearbox out job.
Something else that's easy for you. Drain, flush and replace the coolant. I doubt if the antifreeze has been changed recently.
1. Undo radiator bottom hose at the radiator. Be careful and don't use force - you'll damage the radiator as they're not sturdy when new! Drain the water/antifreeze into a suitable receptacle.
2. Stick a hose pipe in the bottom hose and let fresh tap water run through until it is nice and clear. You can also undo one of the interior heater hoses near the thermostat and put the garden hose on that to ensure the heater matrix is flushed properly. Also feed water into the header tank.
3. Allow the system to drain.
4. refit bottom hose and if necessary heater hose.
5. Add the correct amount of concentrated antifreeze at the header tank
6. Top up with water to the header tank max mark. Refit header tank cap. Job done.
The recommended antifreeze strength is 50%. We don't need that level of freeze protection here really but don't cut back on the quantity as it is also a corrosion inhibitor. You add the antifreeze neat because the engine will have residual water in it after the flush and if you use ready diluted antifreeze or you dilute it yourself in a bucket, it won't all go in!
Other jobs you could line up for the future and which are relatively easy :
1. Gearbox oil change.
2. Brake/clutch fluid change ( if not done with the pipes ).
3. Clean fogged headlamps ( if necessary )