Crispie’s Rear Suspension rebuild.
I’ve almost completely renewed my rear suspension as 1 tyre developed a serious inner edge/50p wear problem.
This is not a difficult job but it is a lengthy one. It took me best part of 3 days even though I had almost all of the new parts and had already stripped and sprayed 2 spring pans.
22/19/17/13/10 mm ring spanners (ratchet type are very handy)
22/19/17/13/10 mm sockets. I needed a deep 22mm.
4 or 5mm Allen key and/or narrow 17mm open ended spanner.
Lots of coppaslip. I got a Pritstick style twist/pop up version of this which was much easier than a usual tube.
Remove rear road wheels, remember to chock front wheels and/or put in gear. Raise the car as high as you can – for easier access. I used 2 axle stands with 4x4 wood blocks on the mid crossmember of the subframe or you could do similar under the rear box jack points, inboard of the sill edge seam.
Take lots of photos of all the components AT THIS stage to aid reassembly (assuming it has been put back together correctly on previous occasions!)
Then spray liberally with release spray. I used the one that freezes the nut as well. Go for a cup of tea. Spray again….
Release handbrake cables from rear hub and remove cable from the spring clips, 2 each side, 1 on spring pan (10mm to remove) and one attached to ARB bush mount bolt.
(I replaced the ARB bushes, nuts and bolts so it was easier to access with cable out of way)
Unhook ABS cable grommet from hub.
Crack and slacken every nut NOW before you take anything completely apart:
Upper and lower shock mount
Inner and outer rear swing arm (and outer spring pan)
Inner spring pan
Upper wishbone inner x2
Upper wishbone outer knuckle – will require a ball joint separator. (hammer was insufficient on mine) http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/z...ckWishbone.jpg
ARB drop links. These will either have a 4 or 5mm Allen key hole to use in conjunction with ring spanner or a 17mm flat on the knuckle itself to prevent rotation. If it has an Allen hole then really clean this out with a small screwdriver then tap Allen key in with small hammer to ensure good fit.
I thought most of bolts and nuts would be knackered but 95% are OK and possibly reusable so if anyone needs a spare give me a shout.
There isn’t any particular order of removal (unlike reassembly) but I would suggest the long bottom hub bolt is the first to be taken apart.
DO remember to support the hub/calliper/disc at an early stage (wire through calliper and hook over shock top mount) - or you will put strain on the brake hose and the tie-rod at the front. I also used wooden blocks under the hub once all taken apart.
DO remember to be careful of those precious and easily damaged rigid brake pipes.
Things are generally easier if the top shock mount is removed early on.
Most bushes will be past their best and need removing. I have a 10 ton hydraulic press which makes relatively light work of bush removal, otherwise it’s the blowtorch and hack saw route. Or find a friendly garage.
Be careful if using a press that the upper wishbone arms aren’t bent in the process as they get in the way of each other during removal of the bushes.
At this point I stripped/cleaned and sandblasted the upper wishbones followed by several coats of paint which slowed me down a bit.
I used completely new rear lower arms as I managed to get OE Alfa parts at a good price (even though I had the Powerflex bushes ready waiting!)
My turrets were completely shot and collapsed when I levered them off.
The upper rubber spring bases were OK but the lowers were replaced along with new bump-stops and bump-stop cups in the spring pan.
All the holes and mating surfaces of the subframe lugs and hub were cleaned up using wet n’dry. Also wet n dry the internal fitting surfaces where the new bushes are located to dress.
Also the top of the subframe where the turret fits over.
Then get lubed up! If using Powerflex then get plenty of the copper lube supplied, splashed about everywhere. I found that squirting the packet into a small tub and using an old tooth brush was the easiest and cleanest way of spreading over all the surfaces of the PU bushes.
The trick to get the bushes in is the put one half in with the metal insert protruding about half way TOWARDS the opposite bush half, to aid in locating the other half.
Others have recommended putting the bushes in first then tapping metal insert into the middle. My bushes wouldn’t do this.
Then use a vice with suitable large, thick protective washers or similar, to press home the bushes fully.
I found I then had to keep the bushes together with one of the old nut/bolt and small washers. This also aids insertion later on.
Bushes will not go in spring pan fully if the weld excess at the internal angle has not been ground off (angle grinder is THE most useful tool I have ever invested in…..)
Rear suspension Part numbers (for a V6):
Description pt No. Quantity Same part
Bump stop 7782710 x2
Turret/support 60615402 x2
Bump stop cup (lower) 60651482 x2
Rear swing arm (whole) 60627482 x2
Rear swing arm inner bolt 16241024 x2 (ii) (x4)
Rear swing arm inner nut 15503821 x2 (iii) (x10)
Rear swing arm inner washers 14496721 x2 (i) (x10)
Spring Pan inner bolt 16241024 x2 (ii)
Spring Pan inner nut 15503821 x2 (iii)
Spring pan inner washers 14496724 x4 (iv) (x12)
Outer long hub bolt (common) 7719062 x2
Outer long hub bolt washer 60612606 x2
Outer long hub bolt nut 7719063
Shock top nut 15503721 x2
Shock top bolt 16237534 x2
Shock top washers 14496721 x4 (i)
Shock bottom nut 15503821 x2 (iii)
Shock bottom bolt 16240724
Shock bottom washers 14496721 x4 (i)
Upper wishbone bolt 16240821 x4
Upper wishbone washer 14496724 x8 (iv)
Upper wishbone nut 15503821 x4 (iii)
Upper wishbone nut outer 15506221 x2
Spring top rubber seat 60629544 x2
Spring lower rubber seat 82435857 x2
The upper wishbone ball joint can be ordered from several places off the web but not Alfa dealers.
Mine looked as though they had already been replaced once as they were newer looking than the rest of the arm. But they were still very slack/loose compared to new Moog items. You need a ball joint separator to release the knuckle from hub.
General tip – don’t do any bolts/nuts up tight. A loose fit allows easier reassembly of everything.
Refit the upper wishbones without the outer balljoint section/ARB drop link bracket, simply so you have more space and freedom of movement to wiggle the new tight bush ends into the subframe flange. Loosely attach ball joint and ARB link bracket to each side of the wishbone and insert the wedge/interference fit balljoint to hub. To tighten this up I had to put wooden mallet handle or large, long screwdriver wedged in behind knuckle onto stub axle of calliper mount, to “lock” the bolt into the wedge fit to allow tightening of nut, without knuckle turning.
Lining up of arms with subframe or hub holes is easier with successively larger diameter rods of some sort i.e. cross head screwdriver shaft, 6/7/8mm Allen keys and finally a “sharpened” old bolt, inserted the wrong way round. Then feed/tap the proper bolt in the correct side and push old bolt out at the same time.
Bolt up the rear lower arm on inboard bush/bearing onto subframe.
Line up spring pan outer bush, rear arm outer bush and the hub to accept the long bolt (and spacer midpoint).
Bolt up the ARB drop link to the bracket.
This is going to be low - old spring V new Voigtland http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/z...QuiteADrop.jpg
with bottom and top rubber cap and the turret (with well lubed bumpstop inserted). Place on spring pan then use hydraulic jack carefully to raise spring pan to allow alignment of inner bearing with the subframe lugs – bolt up.
Finally fit the shock, bottom first then use jack to raise rear arm and shock up OVER the subframe lug. It will not go straight up from the bottom as the gap is slightly narrower where the subframe has not been completely machined. Leaving the shock until last makes the other arms easier to jiggle for fit.
Tighten everything up. I believe Powerflex joints should not be torqued up until the car is off the jacks, on its own weight?
Yeah no more crash-thud-clunk when driving over bumps/holes bigger than 2mm!
However ride felt decidedly bouncy at the back - here's why - the V6 bump stops are too long, contacting on lower pad when car resting on its own weight.
Here's the "adjustment" to create a gap .....
The ARB bushes are a right royal PITA!, Nuts/bolts very difficult (13mm) to get at becasue the top bolt heads are hidden in depths of subframe. The new ARB bushes I had to split to get over the roll bar as they physically would not stretch over the flatted ends of the antiroll bar.I put the split in the flat base that contacts the subframe, figuring this had the less force on it and less likely to rotate within the strap around the bush. Pain to du up bolts too!
Torque values: NM
Shock top 59-72
Shock bottom 79-98
Lower arm Inner 88-98
Lower arm outer (*) 185-205
Spring Pan inner 88-98
Spring Pan outer (*) 185-205
Upper wishbone outer 88-98
Upper wishbone inners 88-98
Tie rod outer 47-51
Tie rod inner ?
Tie rod adjustment nut 59-73
ARB drop link 23-28
ARB bush 15-21