<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:<hr /><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by heroblobs:
<strong>Weel done m8, I've been waiting for a good day to do this as well. Hope it lasts, BTW how long did it take you to do.?</strong><hr /></blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well...
Not a massive job, set aside a couple of hours and a few cold beers, here's a quick guide which should help you guys out if you're planning on doing this, it'll certainly prevent you from making the same silly mistakes I did
, anyway, here's how it's done:
First of, you'll need to get the cowling off, this is attached by a number of small allen-headed screws, so get out your allen keys:
Some of these screws are hidden under the rubber seal at the front of the cowling, so you'll need to take this off too, this is a bit of a bugger if, like me, you have a strut-brace installed, but bear with it, those wipers will be working properly again, so the reward is worth the struggle! Lastly, you'll need to take off the windscreen wiper arms, they unbolt very easily, but they are really stubborn when ot comes to prising them of the fixing bolt, just keep wiggling them and gently prising them upwards until they pop off:
Okay, now you can take the cowling off, watch out though, there are two panels and they are each affixed at the bottom of the windscreen with plastic grip studs, so be careful when you pop them off or you'll break the studs. Once you have them off you'll find a piece of plastic panelling on the left (maybe the right if you're in the UK as I imagine it's all reversed on RHD cars). Take this off to ease access to the wiper assembly, it levers upwards from the front. Mine was completely covered in sand (I do live in a desert though, I wonder what kind of wonderful gunk you'll find on yours if you live in cold, wet climates?) so clean it up and put it to one side. Now you can concentrate on the wiper assembly, it looks like this:
Okay, you have a nut on the top right, a bolt on the bottom and a bolt on the left, all are the same socket size. Undo them all and then you'll have to figure out how to get the damn thing out, the trick is to watch the plastic motor casing, move the unit back into the cavity and get the plastic motor casing to sit above the lower bolt hole, once you've done this it should squeeze out of the cavity, with the top of the motor pushing hard against the body of the car below the windscreen. Obviously fitting is a reversal of this. Anyway, once you have this unit out, DO NOT unbolt anything (that's the one mistake I made and it made the whole job very comlicated). Just turn the unit over and you'll see an almost
triangled-shaped plastic housing next to the cylindrical wiper motor. Like me, you'll no doubt find that the seal has long-since permiated, so you should be able to prise the lid off this unit really easily using a small flat-headed screwdriver, once you've got this open you'll see your circuit board, and it looks like this:
Fist of all, you might notice that the board has corroded, if so, get out some solvent (white spirit or something) and clean the whole thing up with a rag, if fancy a trip to Maplins (if you're in the UK) then you can buy proper cicuit board cleaner that will probably do pretty much the same thing. Anyway, get it all cleaned up and looking like new.
Now, you'll nead to seal it to stop any more water getting in, the best thing to do here is to dig out your old glue-gun, if you haven't got one, but one, they only cost about £5. Get a pack of gluesticks too, because you're going to use loads of this stuff. If you don't know what a glue-gun is, it is a simple heating iron tool, shaped like a gun that heats sticks of high-temperature silicon, it is the perfect tool to use for sealing circuit boards. If you can't find one in your country then you can use low temperature silicon (sometimes called aquarium sealant) it'll do the same job, it just takes a lot longer to dry. Anyway, what you need to do is to coat the whole board with this stuff, cover everything! Once you've fininshed, run the glue-gun around the edge of the plastic housing and clip the lid back on, that should give you a nice, watertight seal that will last a lot longer than the factory one.
So that's it, job done! Also, it's really worthwhile to take the opportunity to replace the water nossle hoses and sockets. Both of my sockets (the bit that joins the hose to plastic pipe on the bottom of the cowling) were broken. Apparently you can get better ones at aquatic pet shops, they use them for the air piping in aquariums. I didn't, I just fixed up my existing ones with superglue and silicon sealant as I couldn't find an aquatic pet shop, but it seems to have worked (for now at least).
I hope this helps you lot out - Enjoy!