Great guide, but surprised nobody mentioned that bolts on the rocker cover (camshaft cover) are RIBE (not Torx). RIBE is similar, but subtly different from Torx.
You can get away with a Torx T40 (tad small and T45 too big) but if the bolt head 'splines' have been rounded at all you may be in trouble.
Snap! I voiced exactly the same words to myself and was about to write them, but you beat me to it... amazing
Can't remember if the TS head bolts are Ribe too (they probably are), if so, the correct tool becomes essential. You can, as you say, get away with Torx for the engine cover/cam cover, but sooner or later the right Ribe tool becomes essential. The sump is another special case that needs a slim Ribe tool for the two bolts nearest the flywheel. So the bolts are all over the engine and worth getting the tools for!
I think Ribe is also known as Polydrive. List of screw drives - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
For anybody in NZ who happens to read this, be aware that Ribe is very difficult to find - forget Repco/SuperCheap and even tool shops will laugh at you. I got a small King Tony set from Extreme Automotive (a nationwide chain that seems to mainly do auto electrics). I also got another set branded T&E from Sulco (one of those tool-van and mail-order companies) but had a problem with breaking (to their credit, Sulco replaced without question, but it puts a real dampener on your Saturday afternoon to realise the job can't be completed till courier arrives on Tuesday
). I think I know why I had the breakage problem - it was 1.2L 16v FIRE (FIAT Punto) head bolts with insufficient oil under the integrated-washer bolt head, causing a snapping action as the correct torque approached. The crack-crack-crack jerky tightening will break the tool. Moral of this is that head bolts should always have a washer under the head (in my opinion!) and lots of good thick oil (not penetrating oil).
To the credit of the original poster, this guide is still excellent for replacing cam cover gasket... just adding extra info for when you delve further to the cylinder head...
By the way GraHal... I reckon leave the rubber seal dry (rather than Hylomar all round) and put blobs of appropriate silicone sealant in the corners formed by the cam caps where they meet the flat surface. The seal tends to stretch slightly at these corners and I think this will be the problem you've got (or, the corners of the cam cover are cracked
). The best silicone sealant I have found is Threebond (Japanese), matt grey type. I have been there and done this job a few times and never had a problem with that approach. There isn't enough surplus sealant to go anywhere and cause trouble.
On the other hand, attempting to re-use an old rubber seal with Loctite Master Gasket (red anaerobic sealant) or silicone sealant was a disaster (you weren't going to do that, of course, but I just wanted to point out that reusing the seal by adding any sort of sealant is a waste of time, just in case someone was tempted... the sealant just doesn't adhere to old rubber