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Sill-ee question

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3K views 17 replies 5 participants last post by  Matt GTV 
#1 ·
It's time for me to expose the true horror that has been lurking behind the sill trims on my restoration GTV 2.0 V6 TB. I need help with this! Has anyone trodden this path before? Does anyone have some decent sill sections that can be cleaned up and welded in? Both outer sills are totally shot through in several places, but on the bright side, the floor pan only has a few holes! Any advice gratefully received...
 

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#2 ·
Uh oh, the dreaded metal rot in the sills.
I've repaired one V6 with bad sills, but I've also scrapped another because of it.
I would strip the paint back of as best you can to work out just how much needs to be repaired, test the inner sills with a screwdriver prod, particularly up at the front.
I'd forget about using an Alfa specialist, no names but I got a quote for a couple of grand to fix my sills. I'd also forget about replacement sills from another car, my welder was adamant that new metal would be best.
Strip it all down, you'll need to get back to 'good metal'.
Have you also had the rear arch liners off yet? If your sills are bad then you can bet the rear arches are bad too.
Sorry to be so negative, there are a lot of cars out there that haven't had their sill covers off in years.


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#4 ·
Hi Matt, - many thanks for the reply. I didn't find it negative at all. Yes, the wheel arch liners are off, and your photo looks like the state of my car. This can be patched for sure with a new piece welded in. My conern with the sills is about getting the shape right, especially for the recesses that hold the plugs for the plastic trim, - hence my interest in old but good sills. How did you re-fit the plastic trim? Many thanks
 
#5 · (Edited)
That car didn't make it unfortunately, the photo is just before the scrap man came & took it away, the sills (& bodywork) were just too bad. I transferred all the decent parts onto another V6. In the new V6 I had the sills welded incl the end plates (rear end with the large rubber blank), I also had the boot patched and a couple of small areas under the car. The welding required was not as bad as yours, looking at your photos your sills are really similar to the one I had to scrap (but as said there were other issues).

The plastic trim was not a problem because the car was not welded there, I wouldn't think that would be too much of an issue though, just a re-drill of the new metal after welding complete. The key will be getting a decent metal fabricator/welder so that you maintain the structural integrity of the car; it doesn't have to be the prettiest repair because they are mostly hidden; the outer sills are not even checked on MOTs.

Obvious I know, but once repaired the sills need to be rust converted, painted & protected again. I ended up doing the whole car - sills, boot, arches, underneath, engine bay, interior floor etc

Here's a couple of photos of that end plate on the new V6 (before & after). The worst of the other areas were forward inner sills.
 
#6 ·
Hi Matt, Thanks again. Your before and after photos really give me hope. Did you get the end plates made up? Presumably they are not available as a manufactured part.

The good news is that the car is on axle stands in my garage and I'm trying to do a thorough job on it, rather than bodge it.
 
#8 ·
#9 ·
I have these, but they are just the centre section of the sill that goes under the doors,- and they cost me £152 for the pair! The front sections and rear sections of outer sill involve loads more bodywork metal according to Eper, and I was quoted £376 to get them, - hence I'm working on plan B to keep the good metal, cut out the bad, and weld patches. I see you're in Suffolk too, - could you recommend your welder person?
 
#13 ·
Yes your right. I looked at removing some panels when I was dismantling a couple of GTV's this year. The rear wings looked like they joined the roof section with loads of spot welds around the rear window and door frames so I gave up.

You seem pretty hands on so have you considered getting a MIG welder and doing it yourself? They are not expensive nowadays and MIG welding is not difficult.
 
#11 ·
My guy was an Aircraft Welder, unfortunately he moved up to the North East last month. I will ask around though.

Ref end plates, these were made up to fit by my welder, as long as the correct grade/thickness of metal is used then no issues, same goes for the patches.

Now the car is up on axle stands give the underneath a proper look over, look for 'bubbles' of underseal, moisture gets in & corrodes the floor but the underseal stays in tact so remains hidden. Scrape the 'bubbles' off to see the full extent, particularly where the rear passenger floor meets the underbody.
 
#12 ·
Just popped out to the garage (any excuse to leave my desk) and grabbed this shot of work in progress on the underside. I've found plenty of moisture bubbles in the underseal. Progress is going to be enhanced by my new angle grinder with wire brush attachment.

Let me know if you can think of any Alfa-friendly welders in the area, (I'm between Bury and Diss). Thanks
 

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#14 ·
It's good to hear that someone has trodden the same path as me here. I have borrowed a MIG welder and got the gear, but not the confidence yet to start using it, or to start cutting holes in metal. I guess I should just step up and crack on with it (fighting talk!)
 
#18 ·
That photo was from my grey V6 that was scrapped. I hardly used the car, I bought her to refurb but after stripping her down realised it was a lost cause. Just proves how & where 916's rust and how regular maintenance under the car is as important as the bits we see on a daily basis.
 
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