GTV Fuel Pump Dismantling / Repair - Alfa Romeo Forum
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(Post Link) post #1 of 17 Old 12-08-16 Thread Starter
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GTV Fuel Pump Dismantling / Repair

Dear GTV Enthusiasts

My fuel pump has broken on my Phase 2 T-Spark. There are lots of "compatible" fuel pumps on Ebay for c. 25. The only problem is that I cannot work out how to open the casing on the old pump without cutting it with a saw.

Please can somebody advise with some experience.

Thanks.
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Just replace the whole thing. I have a good used one on eBay if interested.
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(Post Link) post #3 of 17 Old 12-08-16 Thread Starter
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GTV Fuel Pump Dismantling / Repair

Yes I think that might be the only answer. I prised off the black top with two flat bladed screw drivers, to reveal a filter and sealed pump unit. The pump is surprisingly small and integral to the black plastic unit.

Some people appear to have modified these fuel pump units on other cars, removing the pump, fitting a long pipe and fitting the fuel pump externally. Has anybody tried this?
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(Post Link) post #4 of 17 Old 12-08-16 Thread Starter
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Does anybody know the flow rate spec on the original fuel pump?
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(Post Link) post #5 of 17 Old 12-08-16 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by GTVblackandred View Post
Does anybody know the flow rate spec on the original fuel pump?
And the correct fuel system pressures?
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(Post Link) post #6 of 17 Old 22-08-16 Thread Starter
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I have since managed to tap the pump out from the black cylinder with a drill bit from underneath. For reference the pump is a Bosch 0580 453 449 12V 014 865-26.

I do not want to buy a second hand unit. I will replace the pump and reuse the black cylinder or failing this (some damage inflicted from prising the top off) I will modify the external housing to take a new pump and pre-filter and fit a post-filter externally.
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(Post Link) post #7 of 17 Old 03-09-16 Thread Starter
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Conclusion to the Fuel Pump Repair

I've learned a few things doing this job.

Firstly no need to prise the top off the black cylinder. It contains a filter and along with the outer unit acts as a swirl tank integrating the pump, pre filter strainer and post filter. The pump motor taps out. Having removed the attaching pipe, spray WD40 around it, put it on a bench with a suitable tap fitted up the bottom to the motor entry point and tap the top of the cylinder lightly with a mallet. The motor pops out.

I bought a replacement motor cheaply on Ebay, it is Italian. I had to buy some replacement fuel pipe and jubilee clips to fit it back together. I spent some time cleaning the inside and outside of the external housing with meths, rag and a small screw driver to remove bits.

Because I removed the top of the black cylinder, doing this damaged the outer plastic slightly and broke the upper internal plastic seal. I superglued this back together and clamped it. I have used long cable ties to secure it.
The filter looked OK. Unless you have done a significant mileage I wouldn't change or open the cylinder.

The pre-filter strainer on mine was shot so I removed and repaired it. I tore out the remaining screen and fitted two circles of curtain mesh and a circle cut of a fine tea strainer. I did a week's test in a jam jar on the curtain mesh, it wasn't affected. So hopefully I have master bodged the whole unit for a fraction of the price of buying a new one.

It now works in the tank, refitting it is tricky, next job is pour petrol in and try and start it for the first time in 8 years!
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Sorry for a bit of a thread derail,but seeing as you've got yours in bits,could you confirm that this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Sende...3D371318544821 is the correct seal for the top of the unit (spider has a whiff of petrol fumes about it) and how easy a job would it be to change just the seal ? Thanks
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(Post Link) post #9 of 17 Old 04-09-16 Thread Starter
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Sorry for a bit of a thread derail,but seeing as you've got yours in bits,could you confirm that this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Sende...3D371318544821 is the correct seal for the top of the unit (spider has a whiff of petrol fumes about it) and how easy a job would it be to change just the seal ? Thanks
That looks similar although I think the main dealer sell them for 10 to be on the safe side. You need a tool to remove the lock ring, they are available on Ebay. Mine was very tight, I didn't think I was going to get it free, but I managed to get my torque wrench on it with decent leverage. Access is limited. You need to remove the rear seats, the cover for the tank at the top, disconnect the fuel pipe and the electrics having disconnected the battery first.

I think you will have to remove the pump so you need to drain the tank and pump it out first. When you release the lock ring and pull the pump unit up, you need to lift it straight up behind the seats and then twist it to get it out. It will be full of petrol so have plenty of rag and a bucket to put it in. Cut the old seal off. Mine had gone sticky and nasty. Clean it off, put new seal on from underneath, and refit. I put a smear of grease on the seal to refit to the tank.

Good luck.
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(Post Link) post #10 of 17 Old 04-09-16 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTVblackandred View Post
That looks similar although I think the main dealer sell them for 10 to be on the safe side. You need a tool to remove the lock ring, they are available on Ebay. Mine was very tight, I didn't think I was going to get it free, but I managed to get my torque wrench on it with decent leverage. Access is limited. You need to remove the rear seats, the cover for the tank at the top, disconnect the fuel pipe and the electrics having disconnected the battery first.

I think you will have to remove the pump so you need to drain the tank and pump it out first. When you release the lock ring and pull the pump unit up, you need to lift it straight up behind the seats and then twist it to get it out. It will be full of petrol so have plenty of rag and a bucket to put it in. Cut the old seal off. Mine had gone sticky and nasty. Clean it off, put new seal on from underneath, and refit. I put a smear of grease on the seal to refit to the tank.

Good luck.
PS Make sure the smell is not from the expansion vessel or carbon filter in the boot behind the wheel, there is pipework there. I would be surprised if the seal is the cause of the smell unless it has been removed before.
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Thanks for the help
Sounds like a typical alfa job then,i'll definately be checking out the easier to remedy possibilities first
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTVblackandred View Post
You need a tool to remove the lock ring, they are available on Ebay.







.


Could you give a link to Ebay or code for this tool?
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(Post Link) post #13 of 17 Old 06-09-16 Thread Starter
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Ebay Product ID 321854326208

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Univer...item4af00345c0

There might be better ones but this worked for me. I emphasize the need to get a big ratchet or torque wrench on it and hold it steady.
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(Post Link) post #14 of 17 Old 06-09-16 Thread Starter
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PS JRow. Check the fuel cap gasket. This might be the cause of the petrol wiff, more likely than the pipework behind the spare wheel even, and check the pipes under the car for condition.
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Will do.
Likely culprit atm is the sender seal rather than the pump seal,from a basic sniffing test Car is sorn and so not been filled for a while - odour has gone,which might actually make it easier to trace,as the nose is not so overpowered
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(Post Link) post #16 of 17 Old 06-09-16 Thread Starter
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I see - its a Phase 1 Spider. Mine is a Phase 2 and the pump and sender unit is integrated on this and separate on the Phase 1. Not sure which tool you need to pull out the sender unit on your model.
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Right. I am writing an update and authoritive bit of advice on the fuel pump rebuild.

1. You can only replace the pump itself as described above. You cannot change the post-filter integral to the black cylinder unit.
2. Do not try and open the black cylinder by removing its cap, this will break the internal plastic seal and render it scrap.
3. You cannot effectively glue and strap down the previously removed black cylinder cap, it will not hold the pressure.

So if an original pump fails, you cannot change the post filter integral to the black cylinder. The only way to add a new filter is to put one in-line under the car. In this case you would re pipe the pump outlet so it feeds directly up to the plastic head cap containing the pressure regulator, so the original post filter is no longer fed. This might be sensible for a high mileage original pump which has failed, you can get a new pump to fit for 25 and put an in-line post-filter under the car, perhaps the lot for 40, a lot less than a new pump unit from the dealer.
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