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(Post Link) post #1 of 18 Old 11-07-16 Thread Starter
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Head repair options

My spider has got head problems and is currently sorn. Wife has bought herself a TT roadster ( boooo! ) ,so no great urgency in repairing the spider,but i would like to have a go.

On the plus side its not let any water into the oil,but a block test shows there are hydrocarbons in the coolant ,so a leak to atmosphere. Main symptom is overheating rapidly when in standing traffic and then chucking water out through cap. Car was bought for 750 3 yrs ago and i've spent the same again getting her decent,but scruffy,so not worth going ott on getting her fixed ,it that makes sense.
I have a donor car with same p1 engine to hand,with no head problems.

My options appear to me as :-
1) Head off, skimmed,replaced - dependant on any other damage spotted due to the overheating
2) Head off,replaced with head from donor
3) Whole engine out,replaced with donor engine
Cambelt/pump etc will be done too as they are due anyway

Option 2 is the way i'm leaning atm,3 would be a lot of work but prob the 'safest' option
Any thoughts would be appreciated,i'm in no rush,as i wont be tackling it til winter

Thanks
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If the donor engine is known good, I'd go the whole engine swap.

Then, with the current engine out, take it apart and establish if it is economically repairable as a rebuilt spare or maybe to sell.
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I think changing heads is easier than taking 2 engines out.
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(Post Link) post #4 of 18 Old 12-07-16 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pkr View Post
If the donor engine is known good, I'd go the whole engine swap.
The donor can only be assumed to be good unfortunately.Its done 100k ,as has the spiders engine.Donor was bought with the dash out after previous owner had given up on a brake master cylinder replacement.It's been standing for a couple of years,but will start easy enough,and runs fine too,with nothing to cause concern,but i've never run it on the road so cant be 100% about it.
Logically i should start by taking the head off the spider and then make my decision based on what i find there i suppose . Glad i'm in no rush
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(Post Link) post #5 of 18 Old 03-08-16 Thread Starter
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Got the head off today and i think its probably past saving

Its deeply pitted where circled,top two can probably get away with as its where the water channels are anyway.The one on bottom of cyl4 in the close up though is badly pitted right on the cylinder seal,i guess this is where i'm getting the hydocarbons in the coolant from.
Can't really see how that can be repaired tbh,so i'll get the head of the donor and see how that is.
As well as the leak being on cyl4 i noticed that the plugs on that cyl had quite a bit of oil in and were hard to remove.Other plugs just needed loosening and then removed by hand,cyl4s needed spannering most of the way out.Also the valves are black compared to the other ones.
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(Post Link) post #7 of 18 Old 03-08-16 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mitch916 View Post
Mine was like that, i got it welded and then skimmed
Great to know thanks,gives me another option if the donor doesn't pan out

EDIT: Just realized ,yours went in exactly the same place as mine too

Last edited by JRow; 03-08-16 at 22:03.
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I've exactly the same dilemma with my GTV, I have the engine out, heads off. Its a CF2, I have a spare CF3 so would need to change all sensors if go the engine route. I'm thinking keep original heads and rebuild. I did have water in the oil though.
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(Post Link) post #9 of 18 Old 04-08-16 Thread Starter
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hmmm
Mulled it over a bit last night and decided to see about getting the head repaired as:
a) Mitchs' pics of his refurb looked good
b) Doubt the donor is in much better nick,even tho not leaking - its done 100k
c) couldn't face stripping another car down just yet,cuts and bruises from getting the inlet bracket off need to heal first

Took head to recommended repairer - he says yes he can do it,but advised against it because of where the welding needs doing,by the cylinder seal . Wasn't sure what to think really,but decided to go back to the donor plan.
That is when I found that the 2 heads are actually slightly different, donor has no hole for temp sensor behind where thermostat mounts grrrrrrr .
I'd checked visibly as best as i could ages ago and even went through eper for both cars and they came up as same part numbers - ah well at least i spotted it before i started stripping it down
Just ordered a recon head from Autolusso
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allandwf View Post
I've exactly the same dilemma with my GTV, I have the engine out, heads off. Its a CF2, I have a spare CF3 so would need to change all sensors if go the engine route. I'm thinking keep original heads and rebuild. I did have water in the oil though.
On the V6 the difference between the CF2 and CF3 heads are that the power steering brackets are different on the front head and there is an extra breather on the back of the rear head on the CF2

We can do you a really good deal on recon heads and gaskets

Ned
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(Post Link) post #11 of 18 Old 09-08-16 Thread Starter
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Recon head has arrived from Autolusso,but free time to do anything with it has somewhat disappeared. Any tips or 'gotchas' to watch for regarding reassembly would be appreciated,I'm starting to get a bit nervous now it comes to actually putting it all back together
How do you get the 2 gasket positioning tubes out of the old head without damaging them ? currently soaking in plus gas,but they seem quite stubborn.
Also the new head comes with its original set of cam caps,do i use these on my cams,or should i use the ones that are with the cams now (and matched to them presumably) ?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRow View Post
Recon head has arrived from Autolusso,but free time to do anything with it has somewhat disappeared. Any tips or 'gotchas' to watch for regarding reassembly would be appreciated,I'm starting to get a bit nervous now it comes to actually putting it all back together
How do you get the 2 gasket positioning tubes out of the old head without damaging them ? currently soaking in plus gas,but they seem quite stubborn.
Also the new head comes with its original set of cam caps,do i use these on my cams,or should i use the ones that are with the cams now (and matched to them presumably) ?
Why don't you just speak with Ned, I'm sure he'll tell you as he has supplied the head.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRow View Post
Recon head has arrived from Autolusso,but free time to do anything with it has somewhat disappeared. Any tips or 'gotchas' to watch for regarding reassembly would be appreciated,I'm starting to get a bit nervous now it comes to actually putting it all back together
How do you get the 2 gasket positioning tubes out of the old head without damaging them ? currently soaking in plus gas,but they seem quite stubborn.
Also the new head comes with its original set of cam caps,do i use these on my cams,or should i use the ones that are with the cams now (and matched to them presumably) ?
You mean remove the dowels, put a socket in side it so it is a tight fit and gently use a pair of mole grips on the outside and work it loose

Use the caps that come with the head we sent you, they must be kept on the original positions

Ned
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(Post Link) post #14 of 18 Old 10-08-16 Thread Starter
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Thanks for both bits of advice Ned,and for swift delivery of the head. Even if mine could have been repaired it would have cost at the minimum the same as the recon unit off yourselves,so a bit of a bargain really
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Originally Posted by JRow View Post
Thanks for both bits of advice Ned,and for swift delivery of the head. Even if mine could have been repaired it would have cost at the minimum the same as the recon unit off yourselves,so a bit of a bargain really
Here to help

Ned
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(Post Link) post #16 of 18 Old 12-08-16 Thread Starter
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Had a good day on the car today and got it all back together.Was such a thrill when it fired up as though it hadn't been touched Pride before a fall and all that,but so far so good,and i'd never even changed a cambelt before doing this this.
Had a couple of problems along the way :- balance drive pulley was missing almost half of the ridge that holds the aux pulley in place,so took the one off the donor -which took best part of 3 hrs as i had to make a spanner that would fit on its big idler (donor has air con).
Brown trouser moment when i snapped off a sparkplug,leaving all the thread in the head,luckily it came out easily using nothing more than a screwdriver.
And finally,once the car had been running for about 5 minutes it started to lose revs and sound a bit sick.Fearing the worst, i went to turn it off and then saw petrol by the left injector.The fuel hose to the injector rail had split by the clip.Fixed that and all was well again.
Thanks for the help and advice.
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We'll done. Very satisfying to have achieved this yourself and keeps the bank manager happy!

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(Post Link) post #18 of 18 Old 17-08-16 Thread Starter
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Quick update
New block test fluid turned up today - as the half bottle i had left in my kit had turned green on its own.No combustion gasses in the coolant anymore

When i took the cam belt off i setup up tdc,the inlet cam was v slightly out,the cam lobe had to go back a couple of mm for the lock to fit.On the exhaust cam though it was more,probably over 5mm. Didn't think much of it at the time ,but having driven it a little since putting it back together the difference in acceleration is . Annoyingly i realise now i've been driving it for the past 2.5 years in a state of de-tune - although still loved it
Shame the car is sorn til next spring,i'm itching to see what it can do on a proper road
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