Tapping noise: caliper (cross-threaded)

[Scheimann]

Hey guys

Yesterday I fitted my new Red.Dot disks and my DS2500 pads. All went well aside from when I was refitting the nearside caliper, one of the bolts stopped rotating half-way through. I tried as much as I could to tighten it but it would budge no more.

Pressing on, I fitted the wheel and took her for a test drive; but when I turned 3/4 lock right and spirited around a roundabout, I could hear a fast tapping noise coming from the nearside wheel. The brakes seem to work fine with no complaints, all wheel bolts are double-checked tight.

I took it to my local indepedent and while he didn't actually examine it, he thought from my description, that the bolt-hole could be been 'cross-threaded'. He mentioned that it will cost me between £30-£75 for him to rectify.

• What does he mean by cross-threaded?
• Is it something I can rectify myself?
• Is he overcharging me for it or should I just get it done?

[James125]

1. cross threaded is when the bolt has not seated in ariginal threads properly and has cut its own path. (correct me if im wrong anyone but thats how i see it)

2. i dont see why you cant drill and retap the hole yourself if you have the correct tools. pillar drill, a good tap and die set. oh and patience

3.hes probably not far of depending on how much he charges per hour on labour as this is all it should be

[PJC]

Sometimes, if the Gods are smiling on you and the hole you have cross theaded is open at both ends (you can see right through it) taking out the bolt and screwing it in from the other end will restore the thread in the hole.

I know this is not sound engineering practice, but, provided the amount of dammaged thread is not to great it can get you out of trouble. If in any doubt, get it helicoiled.

HTH
PJ

[PaulR]

I'd go with running the correct size die through it followed by tapping the bolt.
Halfords sell a tap and die set for about £20 - even if you only use it once it's worth it.

[Dave Brand]

First point - DO NOT drive the car until the fault is rectified.

You may be lucky & find that only the thread on the bolt is damaged. However, if the thread in the caliper bracket is damaged your best option would be to replace the bracket - a used one shouldn't be too expensive, probably cheaper than paying somebody to Helicoil the old one, & you'd have the full thread, which you wouldn't have if you re-tapped the damaged thread.

[Scheimann]

Originally Posted by PaulR

I'd go with running the correct size die through it followed by tapping the bolt.
Halfords sell a tap and die set for about £20 - even if you only use it once it's worth it.

I take it that the Halfords 28 Piece Metric Tap and Die Set is the one mentioned, or recommended? Will this have the right size die to rethread the caliper hole?

Sorry to ask a noob question, but how would I go about rethreading the hole with said tap and die set?

[wayne-dear]

Originally Posted by Scheimann

I take it that the Halfords 28 Piece Metric Tap and Die Set is the one mentioned, or recommended? Will this have the right size die to rethread the caliper hole?

Sorry to ask a noob question, but how would I go about rethreading the hole with said tap and die set?

When you run the correct tap through, if your lucky it will clean up the crossed thread.
Is it the caliper 'bracket' bolt that is causing the problem?????

[PaulR]

Originally Posted by Scheimann

I take it that the Halfords 28 Piece Metric Tap and Die Set is the one mentioned, or recommended? Will this have the right size die to rethread the caliper hole?

Sorry to ask a noob question, but how would I go about rethreading the hole with said tap and die set?

Yes - but check the sizes first to make sure.

Just run the tap through it - as wscwunda says, with luck it will clean it up. Die the bolt as well - or even better just buy a new bolt. When you do it up you will soon tell if it works - if you can get it to the correct torque all should be well.

[Scheimann]

Team Alfa

So, this morning I got up with determination to sort this out, only to find that my locking wheel bolt was stuck, any amount of force applied using the locking wheel nut would slip. This is because, for some reason, the nut is stripped on the inside A quick look around these forums, and I had some advice to get it off.

First-up was hammering a 18mm socket onto the bolt head for traction. This didn't work and split the socket Then I went to Halfords to buy a Laser locking wheel bolt remover (£10) and a breaking bar (£16). Neither of these worked Then I went to a garage where I paid 2 burly men with a massive hammer and breaker bar £10 to get it off for me.

Then with the calliper off and armed with right tools I set about fixing this damned bolt so it could tighten all the way in and securely fasten to the caliper bracket in order to stop the drilling sound. The first thing i found out was the the Halfords Tap and Die set (£30) isn't big enough for wheel/brake/external bolts

Then with PCJ's advice combined with some common sense in just cleaning the bolt and hole, I eventually got the bolt in, and tightened it all the way in. Then off for a test drive...

Turns out it wasn't the bolt at all as the drilling noise is still there! It's a fast drilling noise that seems to be coming from the nearside wheel when substantial g-force is applied through a right turn and 3/4 lock. All caliper and wheel bolts are tight, new suspension wishbones were fitted approx 1 year ago.

It can't be the Ferodo pads and Red.Dot discs that I have recently fitted is it? Is it the CV joint or something else?

[A D Diagnostics]

Disc Sheild?

[Scheimann]

Originally Posted by misterchase

Disc Sheild?

Mr Chase - you're a genius! turns out the bottom of the disc shield was less than 1cm away from my discs, and in sharp cornering it was touching the disc edge. The drilling sounds was this edge catching on the grooves - I didn't notice it before because i had plain discs. Well happy with my red.dot grooved ones and ferodo pads though - stops like anything now!

Brakes done
Next is the aircon compressor, onwards and upwards...

[PJC]

See, sometimes the Gods do smile on you

Well done mate,
PJ

[A D Diagnostics]

Originally Posted by Scheimann

Mr Chase - you're a genius! turns out the bottom of the disc shield was less than 1cm away from my discs, and in sharp cornering it was touching the disc edge. The drilling sounds was this edge catching on the grooves - I didn't notice it before because i had plain discs. Well happy with my red.dot grooved ones and ferodo pads though - stops like anything now!

Brakes done
Next is the aircon compressor, onwards and upwards...

Glad I could help mate