GTV not idling - cutting out

[TazzyGTV]

as title says really, cars doesnt seem to want to idle, as i turn the key, goes up to 2k revs, then drops to nothing and cuts out, i have to rev it at 3k to pull away to keep it going

any ideas?

could this be why my engine management light is on, to tell me one of the sensors are shot?

cheers

[tony_w]

Do some searches Taz, that sounds like a common problem, but without knowing what engine you have in the GTV, it is hard to tell.

If you have a TS, type "TS cut out" in the search box on this part of the forum and the engines part.....

[Mil Veloce]

Hi TazzyGTV... had the same problem on my 2.0 but it corrected itself. I put it down to a possible weak battery as I was not driving it much at the time. Since then, I make sure I switch everything off (fan, ac, radio, lights, etc) before turning off the engine and (touch wood) have not had the problem since. Not sure if that helps?

[sirwiggum]

I would look at the Idle control valve, clean it up, refit it, see if there is any difference?

Other than that, is the oil the right consistency? Sounds daft, but I had a Zetec Orion had too thick an oil, didn't allow the engine to turn properly from cold!

Fuel leaks or a blocked fuel filter is another one to check maybe?

[berni29]

Hi

My 2.0 TS sometimes just will not idle on startup. Then after a few attempts it is fine. I looked on the forum and changed the crank sensor (a horrible job unless you have long arms and hands like a bird).

That has made no difference. The MAF is next because it can cause that symptom, and the car has a massive flat spot and does not pick up well in any case.

I will try claning the idle control valve and see how that goes....

Good luck... Berni

[andyroo75]

Birds dont have hands.........

Have a look at the inlet hose and check for any splits letting in any unmetered air

[Neilly]

This happens occasionally.
First thing to try is a soft reset: Turn the ignition on so that all the idiot lights come on but without actually starting. Wait for 90 seconds then start and drive. This usually does the trick.

Wobbly tickover is often the idle speed actuator. There are plenty of threads on the topic and plenty of threads on MAF problems.

[tony_w]

Originally Posted by andyroo75

Birds dont have hands.........

Have a look at the inlet hose and check for any splits letting in any unmetered air

Maybe he meant that 'missing link' monkey.....

[TazzyGTV]

some options for me to try, although i have no idea where any of these are... lol

the battery is charged, but may be worth giving it another charge, i was thinking maybe it was the throttle sensor as i had the same problem on my old corsa, but unlike my old corsa, i dont really want to be changing all the sensors in the engine to sort it, because with a corsa, it cost me £200, so i know with an alfa it will cost more...

[TazzyGTV]

can somebody tell me please where the euro socket is, weve took the cover off the passenger side arch, but still cant see it

also, where is the idle control valve and maf sensor?

thanks

[rgwm]

MAF is in the ducting from the air filter to the throttle body - its a black plastic tube with a socket sticking out of the side that the wiring plugs onto. The idle control valve is on the throttle body - if yours is an ally top engine with a throttle cable - if yours is a plastic top engine I think it will have a "fly-by-wire" throttle control....which is a different issue.

[Neilly]

Taz,

By Euro socket, I guess you mean the ODB2 diagnostics connector. Assumiing the you have a Phase 2 car with a "plastic top" engine then it will be right by the drivers knee. Remove the plastic trip panel (three turn buckle type screws) and the panel will drop down revealing a fuse and relay panel. Ignore all of this. The socket is in the top right of the open apperture. It has a black plastic cover on it which makes it a bit hard to see.

I doubt if your problem is MAF related, as the MAF has more influence over the mid and high rev range not tickover. The Idle speed actuator is a common culprit but first take a really good look at all of the black rubber pipe all the way from the Throttle Body down to the air filter. Remove and look for splits, often underneath.

If your engine management light is on then it really is time to plug it in to find out what is wrong. One possibility is the Rev Sensor. Logically the engine shouldn't start at all if this fails but it is possible for it to mis read when it gets hot. The diagnostics will tell you for sure. The Rev sensor is only about £15 and you can fit it yourself without taking the whole engine bay apart but its a fun job that you have to do blind. Enjoy

[TazzyGTV]

thanks guys

i did mean the socket for the diagnosis computer, i have the phase one 'alloy top' so will it be in the same place?

also, funny you should say that about the induction pipe, between the throttle body and air sensor, the pipe is split in 2 and as taped back up with black electrical tape, although not very good, so i do need a new pipe

is the idle control valve the same thing as the rev sensor?

[Neilly]

Taz,

Sorry but I don't think alloy top engines have an ODB2 socket but have the earlier Alfa specific one. You can still get cables, just a different one. Its also in a diffent place, do a search on the form for clues but I seem to recall its hidden around the centre console somewhere.

Get the induction pipe fixed ASAP, you can bodge it temporarily with silicone sealant, while looking for a new one.

No, they are two separate things. The idle control actuator is on the back side of the throttle body. Three small "star" bolts to remove. Be careful not to loose the O ring. Its purpsose its pretty self explantatory when you have it off. Its a simple stepper motor which acts on the throttle butterfly to open the throttle slightly.

The rev sensor is round the very back of the engine near the starter motor. One allen bolt and some wiggling to remove. The wire comes up the back of the motor to the top where you see several conectors. The hard part is getting your arm round to it and to the little clips which hold the cable. It tells the ECU when the engine is at TDC and by implication how many revs its doing. If this fails compeletly then the engine won't start and the ECU light comes on.

[TazzyGTV]

hmmm, ok, so assumingly, its going to be either of the 3 sensors - maf, idle control or rev sensors

first thing first, is a new air pipe, anybody know where i can get one from around the west midlands?

thanks

[newbie09]

this happend to me a few months ago cleaned the throttle body and it was good as new. a massive difference to what it was and cost nothing, mine used to cut out all the time sometimes upto 6 times on a ten minute journey!!! good luck with the fix mate

[TazzyGTV]

great, something else to add on the possibles list, lol, clean throttle body!!!

cheers!

[andyroo75]

Another one for the list - mine has been idling very rough tried loads of things. Finally removed the catalyst - improvement was immediate. Must be way past its best. Just need to buy a new one now