GTV 2.0 Tspark Head Gasket gone!!!

My girlfriend has a 1998 2.0 Tspark GTV. It has a few problems..... to say the least.

It developed a bit of an overheating problem all of a sudden about two weeks ago. Initially I thought she had just run the water really low. But it stated getting worse, and when I filled it up, I got the car to temperature to see if the fan was cutting in, and the water started bubbling and spitting out of the header tank....... So, head gasket springs to mind.

Last night, the inevitable happened, and on her way home from work, it finally went, car got hot, then lost all power. It now won't fire..... let alone start. I got it towed back home with the AA last night, and he agreed that the head gasket was to blame.

I would like to tackle this job myself (with a friend that is quite good with cars and not phased by doing this job). So a few questions:

Where can I find the relevant head bolt torque settings, and any other important info like timing marks etc.? I looked for a Haynes manual, without joy.

Is there any special tools needed for this job?

We have the facility at work to clock and skim the head at work, but is it still worth getting it pressure tested? If so, any places to Reccomend in the South West (Gloucestershire) area?

Which other parts are worth changing while it is in bits and which bits would you recommend definitely replacing (apart from the head gasket set)?

Best place to purchase said parts?

Any thing else I should now?

Any help really appreciated.

Many thanks

Steve

Sorry to hear it went. Try ebspares or alfaworkshop for parts, they are well priced.

Good luck getting it fixed. Would like to see some pics of the work you do on the head out of interest..

There are plenty of workshop manuals on CD to give the specs etc. I think someone recently posted a link to a download site - possibly replying to someone after a Haynes manual?

Originally Posted by rewe6a

There are plenty of workshop manuals on CD to give the specs etc. I think someone recently posted a link to a download site - possibly replying to someone after a Haynes manual?

It was me that asked and here is the threadwith the links (Haynes or similar available ?)

@all - thanks for all the replies. I am away for a week or so, so will be starting this in about ten days. I may need help...................

Many thanks

Steve

Back from holiday. About to start this task on Saturday. I do have a couple of questions...... surprise, surprise.

I am obviously going to buy a head gasket set, and cam belt. Is there anything else I should be replacing while the engine is in bits? i.e. water pump gasket, or maybe even the water pump?

Is there any pitfalls I should know about?

Many thanks

SS

That waterpump is 10 years old now, so depending on the mileage, I'd change it. Then you know it'll do another 10 years/same miles.. so job done forever, realistically.

You have to change the cam-belt, so also change the tensioner. The tensioner failing is what seems to cause most of the "cam belt failures" that affect the T/Sparks.

Variator; if your donkey is remotely diesely at start-up it should be changed (see water pump) as if it fails in the future, you'll have to change the cam-belt to fix it.

The T/Spark has (?) a balance belt and pulleys... so no-brainer to swap these too (as above).


Ralf S.

Thanks for the info. If I bought a cam belt kit (rather than just a cam belt) I am guessing that the tensioner would come with it, but would the kit include the balance belt as well, or would this need to be a seperate purchase?

Thanks

SS

There isn't really a 'kit' of parts as such due to the fact some people will buy different parts (i.e some may include aux belt, variator and water pump) at least this is what I have been told.

Make sure you get both the main timing belt and balance shaft belt with tensioners and idler. I would say that is the minimum you would want to do.

I have ordered a head gasket set, cam belt kit (?) and water pump with gasket. See what turns up Monday, and If I need anything else, I will have to order it as and when.

One further question, I have the equipment to clock the head, and grind flat if necessary at work, but is it necessary to get the head pressure tested?

And should I replace the head bolts?

Cheers

SS

So, I finally got the head off yesterday, and no sign of any damage on the head gasket!!!!! I took a picture of the block as one piston is a shiny gold colour and the other three are matt black???

Any ideas why this is? Maybe this indicates part of the problem?

Each bore had water in too!! Now, maybe this came from the head as I loosened and removed it, but I don't think it did.

One of the valves has an edge burnt away, not much, but enough to need changing. But this burnt valve doesn't correspond with the shiney piston?

So I think I have some big problems. Looking for some serious advice on which way to turn now!!!

Do I persevere with this head and rebuild it? Do I try and source another head? or am I better off getting another complete engine?

I think the complete engine route will probably be the best route because I think there must be some serious problems with the head.

Any help, advice or experience will be very much appreciated.

Cheers

SS

There may not be much obvious damage to the gasket.

I recently changed the headgasket on a cinquecento, and there was only a very tiny split between the 2 layers of the gasket. On a very casyual glance you would think there was nothing wrong with it.


The fact you have a clean piston, generally means that coolant has been finding its way into that particular cylinder. The Cinq was the same.

Well, the clean bore has had coolant leaking into it and the combustion gasses from this bore would have over-pressurised the cooling system, causing the overheating. Realistically it can only be a HG fault or a crack in the head. The fact that it won't fire suggests that it has lost compression. Before condemning the engine, I'd dismantle the head and see how warped it is at your work. Whilst apart, you can make a decision about the burnt valve - not that I can explain how it is connected to the other events.

So, it seems like all is not lost afterall. I don't really want to have to replace the valve, but if the head is warped and needs machining, then I will, as the valves need to come out to do this.

You can see from the third picture the valve is only slightly damaged. Do you think that I can get away with not changing this, or does this really need to be changed.

I was a little concerned about having water in all bores, but I guess this could have leaked in when I removed the head.

Would it be obvious if I have a crack in the head, or could it be internal?

Thanks

SS

Originally Posted by ssmith369

You can see from the third picture the valve is only slightly damaged. Do you think that I can get away with not changing this, or does this really need to be changed.

Would it be obvious if I have a crack in the head, or could it be internal?
SS

How lucky do you feel? You ideally need a compression test - if the cylinder with the burnt valve is OK, I'd just button it all up again and pretend I hadn't seen it! A crack is not always visible by eye. I'd be having a really good look at the old HG. If you can find any fault that would explain the coolant leak I'd feel a lot happier. The best thing would be to get the head properly tested, but if you don't mind risking the price of a new HG and a bit of time, put it back together and see what happens.

Edit: Actually, that valve looks quite bad from the photo. I'd pull it out to see if the damage extends onto the area in contact with the seat.

That head sould definitely be pressure tested and re faced. Also at least one valve needs to be replaced. If I was sure the rest of the engine is completely sound I would be having the head done properly. Tested,stripped,cleaned,refaced and valves replaced as necessary with new seals etc. There is no cheap,permanent fix on these engines and the parts are too expensive to cut corners and take chances..
Just one thing I find odd is that the engine wouldn't fire at all. Even with a blown head gasket it should make some effort to start or fire on the good cylinders.Are you 100% sure it didn't sieze?